Author |
Message |
Willmrx
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 04:02 am: |
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I have been working on a 2008 1125R. What was happening was, when the bike would decelerate to about 3500 rpm the engine would shutdown. What ended up being the cause was the clutch lever switch. After checking all of the simple stuff, I notice when I was looking at the live data on the IC, the clutch position said 1 without the lever being pulled in. After taking the switch apart and cleaning it, it still said 1 most of the time without pulling the lever in. I replaced the switch and no more stalling. Has anyone else have this issue? |
Stevel
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 05:04 am: |
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There really is no justifiable reason to have the switch in the first place. Just another example of big brother in your face. |
Stimbrell
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 05:45 am: |
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The switch is part of the engine braking control, when the ecm detects the bike in gear with the clutch lever out it increases the idle which reduces engine braking when you close the throttle, it is the same as the rider not completely closing the throttle, personally I would like to control the bike myself but this helps people avoid locking the back wheel in error, particularly if they come from riding an in-line four. To answer the OP, yes, I have had the switch fail but was able to fix mine. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 10:49 am: |
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I had the bike die for no apparent reason the other day at 40 mph... Where is this sensitive switch? Can you explain the maintenance process with a picture or two? Thank You. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 11:26 am: |
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To my knowledge, the primary purpose of the clutch switch is to tell the ECM whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged. It uses this info for multiple reasons, including preventing the starter from cranking the engine if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is out. On other than US market bikes that have the side stand switch, it will kill the engine if the lever is released with the bike in gear and the side stand down, When I get a chance, I'll read up on it again, to refresh my memory on it. Still a little foggy this morning... The OP might want to make sure whether or not his bike has a side stand switch, and if so, check the condition of it. As all 1125s have the wiring for the switch with a termination plug, you may need to check for shorts to ground, missing or loose termination plug, and probably more. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 11:37 am: |
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Engine braking ( deceleration fuel) is adjustable in the EEPROM, if you have the correct software. With ECMDroid, you can turn the deceleration fuel off or back on. I haven't tried it, but have heard that cutting the decel fuel completely makes a dramatic difference, one that many people dislike. The vacuum assisted slipper clutch is what helps prevent the rear wheel from locking in a hard downshift, but cutting the decel fuel could make a difference in a marginal traction situation. Edited to add that everything I wrote above came from memory of what I've read here on the board, and in the manuals. If any of it is not completely correct, I am open to correction. As I said, I'm going to reread the manual to refresh my memory ASAP. (Message edited by Panshovevo on November 01, 2015) |
Willmrx
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 08:52 pm: |
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Here is a photo of the clutch switch, it's part of the clutch lever master cylinder, all that is required to get at the switch is to remove the clutch lever assembly with the two allen screws and then the Phillips screw that holds the switch to the lever assembly..
(Message edited by Willmrx on November 01, 2015) |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 09:41 pm: |
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Actual size is a good bit smaller than pictured. |
Willmrx
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 10:07 pm: |
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No it's not! :-) |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 10:24 pm: |
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You gonna make me hobble over to the shop on my crutches to measure one? Yer talking to a dinosaur here. The newest tech I have is a now obsolete iPad. I suppose if you're looking at this pic on a phone screen, it looks smaller. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 09:29 am: |
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Thank You for this picture. How do you clean it? |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 05:04 pm: |
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Most injected bikes have a neutral or start map, and this is generally with less timing and a lower rev limit, and clutch switch in causes bike to go to this map. Also why just jumping switch is not a good idea--unless you want less HP---- Decel fuel cut is a smog thing as it runs cleaner on decel with no fuel, but this fuel cut causes big engine braking decel. I went into ecm on my new Yamaha and turned decel fuel cut off as the transition was too abrupt. |
Willmrx
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 07:08 pm: |
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How I cleaned the switch was to use a small regular screw diver to separate the outer cover and used WD 40 and a Qtip to clean the contacts points. BTW it didn't correct the issue, so I replaced the switch. American sport bike has them for like 12 dollars. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 09:43 am: |
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THX Willmrx |
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