| Author | Message | ||
     Danoz34 |
Please help me make it to the Chucktown Shutdown!  So I'm not finding any info on the issue I'm having with my 2008 1125r. It's leaking (more like shooting) oil out this little hole on side of clutch housing. It won't leak until after the bike is warm. Also if I pull the clutch handle in (engage the clutch) it will stop leaking. If I let it go it just gushes out..... Any ideas on where to start? | ||
| Zac4mac |
First, check the cover screws for tightness. If all are tight then you're going to have to pull the cover and replace the gasket. It's not a particularly hard job, IIRC you drop a cup of oil or so when the cover comes off. Service manual has all the steps with Pix, if you don't have a FSM, get one. Only thing I remember vividly was it took a LOOOOOONG time to bleed the clutch line afterwards. Z | ||
| Danoz34 |
But the gasket is in front of the leak? The leak is coming out that little weep hole behind the gasket | ||
| Shawns |
Could be coming from behind the diaphragm | ||
| Danoz34 |
If the diaphragm is bad would that involve a whole new clutch set-up? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
dano ...like Z sez...check your cover bolts for tightness...if need be go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks it shows how the parts come apart... if the diaphragm is bad it would not require a new clutch "pack" as the clutch runs in oil...make sure that the fluid leaking is oil and not brake fluid from the slave cylinder ( does the clutch still work?....what is the brake fluid level in the clutch lever's M/C?) if it is brake fluid it will eat up your paint...wash it off with water... if the diaphragm has failed (torn), it needs to be replaced...HTH | ||
| Zac4mac |
OH wow it does look like a hole there. Never seen that before. I will dig into this, Z Called Ross, on the off chance he was at the shop, and he was. Grab a flashlight and look at Loretta's motor. Yup, there's a hole and it's at least 3/4" deep. Never knew that was there, best guess now is you might just have too much oil. I will continue digging. (Message edited by zac4mac on September 27, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Have YOU changed the oil? If you did, did you pull BOTH oil drain plugs? I really think you have a quart or more too much oil. Z | ||
| Danoz34 |
I will check into both those options. I'll just do an early oil change and hopefully it works. What is weird is that it is hard to shift and the oil light will intermittently come on.If I have bike running it's difficult to shift or find neutral. As soon as bike is turned off it functions fine. Idk if that info will relate to another issue. I'll update after the oil change. Thanks y'all | ||
| Danoz34 |
Also the lever feels normal, fluid level has not changed in the sight glass. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
the engine was designed to have a vacuum operated "slipper clutch"...the hole that is leaking oil is a "breather/vent" ( I believe) to allow the diaphragm to return to "normal" when the vacuum from the engine was minimal and allowed for normal clutch operation. oil leaking past the diaphragm and out the hole would eventually get sucked up into the engine via the vacuum hose attached to the cases/clutch housing up front near the starter....does the bike blow "blue" smoke? IMO...The hard to shift/get into neutral issue tends to make me believe the clutch is NOT dis-engaging and you have a leaky slave cylinder...solve the oil leak first and then try and bleed the clutch system to remove any air...HTH | ||
| Danoz34 |
Update 9-30-15 So I finally got time to start tearing the cover down. This is what greeted me on the inside. What in the heck would have caused such a catastrophic failure???   | ||
| Danoz34 |
Another update. The large but that holds the "clutch hub" in the "basket" wasn't even tight...... It was backed off a good 3 to 5 turns..... I'm guessing that's what pushed the clutch pressure plate out and into the cover.... Anyone ever hear of such a thing? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Hub nut backed off... Yes, early race failures made Buell up the torque of the rotor nut from 250 ft-lb to 295 ft-lb. There have only been 2 or 3(Maybe more?) street failures, now there's one more. Glad you got it open and it looks salvageable. Too bad it wasn't just too much oil. When you get all the parts - Apply Loctite 272 Red liberally to nut threads. You need to use a new nut... ~ $38 IIRC from H-D for a Buell 1125. Torque to 210 ft-lb then back off 720 degrees(2 turns). Then torque to 295 ft-lb( a 2' breaker bar with 150 lb at 3 o'clock is 300 ft-lb.) You will be ready to ride soon. Z | ||
| Danoz34 |
Wow, so I guess I should feel proud of this failure? Lol I'm happy that it didn't do as much damage as I thought when I first saw it. When I put this nut back on do I have to lock the crank? If so where can I get the tool now a days? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I think Matt Vanella(Nillaice) has a crank-lock floating around for badwebbers. It's not as bad as it sounds. PM me for a phone # if you want. Z | ||
| Oldog |
is the center bearing in the first pic supposed to be loose on the shaft ? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
O'dog...if you mean the "clearance" between the ID of the brg and the OD of the shaft...then No, the shaft should be slip fit...If I remember correctly the shaft is stepped as it "pulls" the clutch plates "cover" out to dis-engage the clutch...due to the failure I believe the clutch plates "cover" is sitting farther out than it should be...the shaft may be "pushed back" and is presenting a mis-leading pix... Zac...go get some O2 quick (the air is kinda thin up there), it's the clutch hub that has come loose not the rotor...he needs a tool to hold the inner clutch hub when he re-tightens the Big Nut on the main shaft...book calls out for tool P/N B-48859 and the crank locking tool...I have made clutch hub locking tools from an old steel disk and with a welded handle to hold the hub while I torque the big nut...the book calls our for Locktite 272, and a torque of 125 ft lbs... you can buy a universal clutch hub locking tool from Ebay for about $20...looks like a vise grip pliers with special "jaws" http://www.ebay.com/itm/clutch-holding-tool-motorc ycle-atv-dirtbike-mx-mc-yfm-/280540702805 | ||
| Zac4mac |
OOooppps Burning too many ends of the candle lately. I am wrapped up in Imnotfred's issues and have a lock on the rotor side. Also have 2 CRs waiting for parts to do rotor/stator fixes. C'mon already EBR... Thanks for the watchful eye Ron. Z | ||
| Danoz34 |
Does anyone have the Buell hub lock tool as well? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Danz...I doubt you'll be able to purchase it...the vise grip type tool will work...just need another set of hands to help hold the hub while you tighten the nut (125 ft lbs!...need a strong second set of hands!)...I used to wedge/stop my vise grip hub lock tool against the footpeg on my dirt bikes/street bikes, while I tighten the nut... you can buy the tool at cycle gear... http://www.cyclegear.com/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY-Clu tch-Tool | ||
| Kruizen |
I thought I remembered someone using some old fibers to keep the basket from spinning when replacing? | ||
| Danoz34 |
Hub is replaced! Clutch bled and bike is running great! Just gotta do an oil change and pull the strainer again after a day or two and I should be good to go. It's crazy that I had both the rotor nut and this clutch hub nut backed off within a year :/ anything else I should look for that's common? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
WASG...if you had both nuts back off...that means the loctite failed...the only way (I know) to defeat loctite is HEAT...I would check the cooling system for leaks and a flush and refill might be in order (do a google search above looking for coolant discussions, use a water wetter type additive)- the bike only takes 3 qts....oil is also the way the engine is "cooled"...make sure your oil level and the type of oil is up to specs....watch the clutch slave cylinder for leaks - if you haven't done an upgrade to that area...glad to hear it's back on the road! |
