| Author | Message | ||
     Buellcephalus |
Hello, I’m needing a little advice on putting my Cyclone back together. What started as a top end overhaul has turned into several buckets of parts, a frame hanging from my garage rafters and a motor on a rolling furniture dolly. I figured if I was going to drop the mother I would go ahead and paint the frame.......that was last November. I’m specifically wondering about taking off the motor mounts and the front one that says “DO NOT REMOVE”. It’s a 98 but I want to go back with 2000-2002 parts (swingarm, heads, gauges, etc). Is it possible to rebuild my motor (has a bad leak from rear head) and transmission (only has 1-2nd gear maybe bent shifting fork) without it being in the frame? Should I sand the frame down to paint it? Since it’s a skeleton I figure I’ll go ahead and take care of everything while it’s naked. Looking for parts and help with what mistakes to avoid. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You can definitely rebuild the motor without it being in the frame. I think it'd be much easier to work on with it not being in the frame. You'll want some kind of engine stand to hold it while you work on it. I've rebuilt smaller engines and usually make a little frame out of that pre-drilled angle, the kind the use to hang garage door openers and tracks, but you could do the same with regular angle iron and a welder, or just drilling and bolting it together. I'm sure there are plenty of engine stands you can buy online. I'd think with the way the swingarm block mounts to the engine you could even use a normal engine stand that would hold it from the back, but if you're only building 1 engine that's probably more than you would need. Google "Sportster engine stand" and you'll find a million pictures. A couple options: http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/tc-bros-sportster-en gine-stand-1957-2003-xl-models-1987-2002-buell.htm l https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cra nes-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69886.htm l People pull off the front engine mounts. The reason they warn not to is because of how specific the bolts are that mount it. You can pull it but just make sure you buy the proper bolts and install them correctly and you'll be fine. the 98 M2s were still carbed, right? take a good look at the newer gauges before you buy them. They eventually switched from cable driven speedos to electronic, and the odometer switched to digital. I've always hated the tach on my 97 S1, because the double digit engine speed makes it look like a speedometer and I always look at the wrong one. Newer ones have single digit engine speed, which is nice but most of them are for the FI bikes. I did manage to find one from a 98 S1, only downside is the ring is black instead of chrome, so they won't match. I'll have to paint my original one. Nothing major, but as you see even switching gauges has more to it than just picking a style you want and throwing them in. As far as your frame, if it's apart, I'd definitely consider having it repainted. You'll regret not doing it after you put the bike back together. |
