Author |
Message |
Buelltours
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 02:35 pm: |
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I am completely stumped: Just installed a new starter in the Useless on the weekend, pushed the start button and the bike started right away. I was psyched that everything worked out so well. Now, a day later, I hop on the bike and want to go ride...and all I hear is the relay in the fuse block clicking. The battery is new, it shows 12.8V, there is no dimming of the lights, all terminals are rock solid, the ground looks fine, fuses ok, I got 12.8V at the solenoid.... Nothing. All I can think is that the solenoid has an issue. But it a brand new (Denso) starter... What am I missing? I feel really stupid. Thanks for y'alls help :-) |
Indybuell
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 02:41 pm: |
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Sounds to me like something is shorting to ground. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 02:48 pm: |
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A cracked wire in the wire bundle going from under the flyscreen to under the frame can cause a similar symptom. Does it change if you sweep the bars lock to lock? |
Arry
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 05:04 pm: |
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You say that the relay clicks when you press the start button. Have you checked for voltage on the small wire (green?) when you press the start? I haven't had to work on mine, so don't know if it can be reached. |
Buelltours
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 05:23 pm: |
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I will check the green wire and try to sweep the handlebars from lock to lock. It is just strange that everything worked flawlessly after the repair. I started the bike at least 5 times without a problem. The Neutral light comes on when in Neutral. The bike should start, regardless of a possibly faulty clutch switch, correct? My problems started, when the lip for the clutch mechanism broke on the primary cover. I installed the plate which one of the members here sells to fix this issue without having to buy a new cover. Unfortunately the plate came loose and started to interfere with the clutch basket. This added friction killed my original starter clutch in no time. Fixed the cover, it won't back out now, but I wonder whether the clutch issue may have caused another problem.... I will post my findings. Thanks! |
Ourdee
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 06:26 pm: |
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Swap relays around? |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 08:29 pm: |
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Double-check all the grounds in the vicinity. Sounds like you had good enough contact to start the first time but a spark oxidized the contact enough to not work the next time... Check the battery first - bolts tight? Wires tight? - wiggle them. Electrons are capricious critters. Z |
Dtaylor
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 09:26 am: |
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Double-check the headlight fuse. |
Cyclonedon
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 02:05 am: |
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My 06 Uly is at the dealers since I had to have it picked up last Friday when I went for a ride and wouldn't start when I came out of Guitar Center. The service tec says it's throwing a ground short somewhere in the wiring harness! We tried swapping out the ECM with no luck so their now tearing through the the wiring harness. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 05:54 pm: |
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Cyclonedon. If it has not been done, and is in the 06 bike HD Tech bulletins, the sub-frame Earth point needs cleaning of paint from the surface contact point. |
Buelltours
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 09:36 pm: |
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no luck so far. It's a 2009, so grounds should be good... It must be something totally stupid... keep the ideas coming! Thanks! |
Tootal
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 10:27 pm: |
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Fuel, Spark and Compression. Unless your air cleaner has turned solid, these three things are your problem. Check fuel pressure Check for spark. Pull the front plug wire and put in an old plug and ground it. Hit the starter and see if you have spark. You have fuel and spark then check compression. It's one of the three! |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 11:07 am: |
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"so grounds should be good..." Do not assume! My 2008 has had MULTIPLE grounding issues related to the steering area. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 08:01 pm: |
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Those weird locking washers can be your friend. |
Buelltours
| Posted on Thursday, June 18, 2015 - 09:03 am: |
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the headlight fuse! Thanks guys. Could this be caused by the Denso starter drawing a little more amps? I cannot believe I didn't see this the first time around (although it was hard to see). I'm back on the road |
Jeepnh
| Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 12:08 pm: |
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Hi, Similar situation, except 2010 Uly left me stranded on a trip. Had to get a rental car, get home, bike trailer home, now to fix. Push Start all lights on dash good, non dim, click on relay, no crank, no draw? Thoughts? |
Jeepnh
| Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 12:56 pm: |
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Quick follow up. Lights on dash: green, red, as normal amber for a moment then goes off. Note dash lights and head light do not dim when press Start. I checked grounds with continuity tester neg batt to everywhere, rear subframe, engine, inside headlight bucket, all, buzz contuity. Rotated solnoids, Noted, when I switch off engine kill,then switch on while pushing Start, starter solenoid kicks, lighs dim for a moment, but not one full crank. Help please, thoughts Diag path, wiring diagram? (Message edited by Jeepnh on September 20, 2015) |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 10:01 am: |
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Do you hear the heavy clunk from the starter's solenoid? |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 05:23 pm: |
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I would first take the handle bar start button switch cover off and test the kill switch and the start buttons. Then test the key switch. Unplug it and jump the wires to start it. If you have good grounds and good positive connections a failure at the switches make sense. Make sure you cannot move the battery cables. If you can force them to move with finger force they are not tight enough. Also if there are no accessory wire loops on the battery cables the original bolts are usually a bit too long, they can bottom out just as they tighten up. Star washers go a long way on these battery connectors. |
Jeepnh
| Posted on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 09:05 pm: |
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Thank you thank you, thank you, Natexlh1000 Etennuly and anyone else looking in I didn't mean to hijack the thread, it just fell into place, the OP found a fuse, and I am in a similar DOA looking for thoughts. I tested Start Switch and harness through 2nd connector in headlight, switch works as designed. the odd, thing Natexlh1000 mentioned, i did find that when I switch off engine kill switch, then while pushing Starter switch, I trrn on the Kill Switch I do hear a one time heavy klunk. lighs dim for a moment, but not one full crank. 1) Where do I get a wiring diagram? 2) is there an easy way to access a place to jump the starter, directly? Thanks all |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 09:53 am: |
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The heavy clunk is the solenoid mashing the gears into the primary. What should come next is the contacts inside the starter should close and spin you up. My guess is the +12 from the battery isn't getting to the 12mm bolt on the side of the starter or the contacts in the starter are crap. My 2008 starter always cranked slowly from day one. It finally stopped doing anything but making awful noises. I think 2008 bikes got a sick batch. |
Arry
| Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 01:56 pm: |
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The wiring diagrams are in the back of the service manuals. If you don't have a service manual, I believe they are still available through Harley dealers, that do Buell parts/service. $60 a few years ago, but it's a pretty complete manual, and worth the cost, in my opinion. Are you sure your battery is good? You were able to get it to activate, "... ,but not one full crank." |
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