| Author | Message | ||
     Bsulysses |
I added this to the Knowledge Vualt but wanted to list it here for the sake of it being a Uly XB12X Ulysses (May 2006) 28,333 mi Hoping to get my Uly back on the road, i have a sprint1050 but its for sale and im trying not to put miles on it, and I never drive my 5mpg bronco. I ride year round/commute daily with the Uly so im also worried since im in Ohio if i let it sit for a week/a month it would rust up worse and it being in a steel pole barn shop with a cold sweating floor hot days/cold nights it might be worse.. #1 - It started out with rides in the rain, would notice a bogging down while cruising or like I was running on one spark plug and the bike would want to die, especially when coming to a stop. Changed the oil, was milky that was late spring '15 when I changed it and I began dealing with the poor riding in rain in Fall of '14.. so I ride everyday it's possible to ride all year, I went through the rest of fall, all through the nasty winter, and late spring when I changed the oil. All that time for that watery oil to be soaking the internals. I went to look into my primary issue thinking the poor riding was water getting in and another issue aside from my primary whirring. I crack open the primary to change the needle bearing, other parts, and to inspect for damage and I have a whirring because my Clutch hub is apparently seized, so it was making the chain wear out the chain adjuster to the point the whirring went away and the adjuster hole is stripped out so the bolt and nut adjuster at the bottom of case by the kickstand was just hanging there loose. I think the water was getting in from my clutch cable, the boot/gaiter where the adjustment barrel and nut are on the clutch cable were toast, completely rusted and PB blaster or other stuff didn't help, I had to use bolt cutters. below the barrel the cable was rubbed through so water would get in that way too and also from the rubber boot holding water and It seeping down the inside the cable right into the primary. where the clutch cable goes into the primary cover on the inside where the cable screw through it was rusted and almost wouldn't screw out of the cover so I definitely know then that's how it was getting in, unless it just rusted because it was soaking in rusty watery oil. Q's 0 - When I spin the mainshaft it is smooth but i can hear everything turning/moving so maybe that's just because the oil is drained out currently? 1- Am I able to clean all the clutch hub, inner race, all the rust, install the tiny ball bearing, press in my needle bearing and put it all back together. 2 - Or will I have to crack open the entire motor and have it inspected for any further danger/damage that's occurred from the rust or water. 3 - the shifter shaft feels wobbly and I can pull it in and out from the engine or wiggle any which way. is that normal because I have it undone and apart or are there parts to the rest of the shifter assembly that are messed up and that's why it's so loose? 4 - The inner race for the inside of the needle bearing is seized or rusted onto the clutch hub so I can't get get it off, I will try heating it up and sliding it off but if that's rusted on then the little bearing on the inside has to be shot or more of the inside of the clutch hub is but I haven't been able to take it apart yet since that inner race is stuck on. 5 - I have snapped two good belts, Dayco panther just before current Goodyear falcon had 1000mi and snapped, now the Goodyear is fraying, wondering if the mainshaft bearings need replaced or what're is behind the belt pulley sprocket on the engine. I loosened the belt and took it off the pulley and the pulley seems fine it spins smooth and doesn't have any play when wiggling it. I don't know if that has anything to do with this at all (the belts snapping) but all I can think of is since my clutch was toast it was making the shifting longer to get out basically clutch had to be completely all the way out for the bike to shift or take off, and the clutch is like squeezing one of those hand grip strengthener devices. Here's the pictures, if anyone knows how to post a short 30 sec video of the primary cover off and the shifter shaft I can email all the pics and the video if someone can help post them? Hope this write up helps, I know the info is here and there and everywhere but I wanted to make this thread a little more in depth. (Message edited by bsulysses on September 16, 2015) (Message edited by bsulysses on September 16, 2015) (Message edited by bsulysses on September 16, 2015) (Message edited by bsulysses on September 17, 2015) (Message edited by bsulysses on September 17, 2015) | ||
| Etennuly |
Wow! What a mess you have there! So you live in the heart of the rust belt and ride a nine year old vehicle to work as year around as possible, surely in road salt at least four months of the year and I can guess you commute less than ten miles to work and back(or so). I can relate to this rust problem. I am in the auto/truck body repair business and spent my first fifteen years in the NW Pa. rust belt fighting it. If your Uly were a car with the same type of problems you would also have the body panels rusted off up to the door handles. You would be looking to trade it in for a newer better vehicle or dig a hole an bury it. Rust is why I moved out of the North. I figured if I am going to make a living repairing cars I may as well work on the "easy ones" with no rust. It pays the same in most instances. I am not so much an engine/transmission guy on these bikes, but what I am saying is.....is this machine worth fixing all that the rust has been eating at? What will fail next due to corrosion? I rode new Honda road bikes back when I lived in the North. They never saw the light of day in road salt season. The couldn't, if they had been exposed to salt they would have been corroded to death in a couple of years. Sorry I cannot be of help, good luck. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Sorry about your issues. I have snapped two good belts, Dayco panther just before current Goodyear falcon had 1000mi and snapped, now the Goodyear is fraying, wondering if the mainshaft bearings need replaced or what're is behind the belt pulley sprocket on the engine. I loosened the belt and took it off the pulley and the pulley seems fine it spins smooth and doesn't have any play when wiggling it. Neither of those belts is likely to last long on an XB. The reverse bend that the idler pulley puts in the belt will break down the fibers in anything but the OEM Goodyear belt (P/N G0500.1AKF). Bite the bullet and buy the OEM belt. Dealer cost is ~$185 but you can find them for less by shopping the web. | ||
| Bsulysses |
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| Bsulysses |
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| Reepicheep |
I think that "split bushing" is normal in the XB's on the primary side, but I don't recall for sure, anyone else remember? I know the crazing on the clutch basket is absolutely normal. Even my Kawasaki clutch baskets look like that (and all my Buell's did too). |
