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Truckedup
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 06:34 am: |
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I just bought a 97 Cyclone that had been sitting for a few years. It has 12000 miles and needed a few repairs.. I welded the broken exhaust hanger,cleaned the carb and replaced intake manifold seals. Changed the oils, adjusted primary chain and checked all the fasteners... I see it has a aftermarket billet front top mount, V&H muffler and a Penske shock. The previous owner said the front mount bolts got loose and cracked the threaded boss on the head.It got a new head and aftermarket billet mount...And the transmission drive pulley stripped it's splines...new pulley... I'll also grease the wheel, swing arm and steering neck bearings. It runs quite nicely...I'm wondering if there's other maintenance that should be attended to considering it's a 97.. Do the rubber mounts have a lifespan? |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 10:09 am: |
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Run the belt loose. |
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Truckedup
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 12:28 pm: |
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Run the drive belt loose? How loose is loose? It has some tension now, moderate finger pressure in the middle deflects it about an inch.. |
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Mighty_mouse
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 03:22 pm: |
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I have an '01 X1 and run the belt to where I can touch the swing arm. When you ride it pulls the belt tighter, even more with a passenger. The rear lower mounts do go bad. See the post in "Knowledge Vault" chassis/suspension about another cyclones bushings. You'll see how bad his is. Also go thru the recall section for updates. MM |
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Truckedup
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 07:42 pm: |
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I can say the rear mounts on mine look like new and nothing like shown in the photos.. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 09:38 pm: |
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What mighty mouse said. Sit on the bike, and make sure you can push the belt with your hand down to where it just makes contact with the swingarm under "pushing it" tension. |
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Jim2
| Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 09:47 pm: |
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See the picture at the link below for the best way to setup your belt tension. As the swingarm pivots up, the tension on the belt increases because the distance becomes longer. The maximum distance is reached when the rear axle is even with the swingarm pivot point and the drive pulley. At this maximum distance you can set the belt snug. Once you set it up this way you can set your axle adjusters and won't have to do the setup each time. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/663763.jpg |
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Truckedup
| Posted on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 05:37 am: |
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Ok...And I assume the finger pressure point on the belt is right where the belt guard ends ? Just bear with me here a minute...I've owned chain drive bikes for years and currently my LSR vintage Triumph 650 is a record holder...But this rubber belt stuff is new to me.... Oh and the Buell is really fun to ride. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 06:59 am: |
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The rubber is a cover, internally it is kevlar, so it stretches *less* than a chain. In fact the reason to run it loose isn't primarily to protect the belt, it is to protect the inner bearings in the 5th gear drive output assembly. They can be crushed and the belt will still be fine. It should last longer than a chain as well, and it does not need maintenance beyond "don't make it too tight when you put the wheel back on". It's a nice option on a street bike. |
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Court
| Posted on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 02:25 pm: |
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It also has 1,487 less failure points. |
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