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Falloutnl
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 10:55 am: | 
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Yeah, just 8500 miles on mine right now if the ODO is honest, and it might be going by the condition of the bike.
After 68k I can imagine wanting to put some work in. Looks great though! You don't see a lot of rain, I supppose?
(Message edited by falloutnl on July 07, 2015) |
Phelan
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 10:59 am: |
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We had rain for 4 weeks straight last month. And rain yesterday and today. I ride in that too, as the bike is my commuter while the wife uses the car. But I keep it clean  . |
Falloutnl
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 11:04 am: |
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It shows  . And the blue wheels are a great choice. Nicely done. |
Ourdee
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 11:18 am: |
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Have you considered toning down the magnesium tone seat supports and rear grab rail? Maybe the same color as the frame. I agree the blue was a great choice for the wheels. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 12:17 pm: |
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Thanks guys! Yes, I agree Ourdee, that's been my plan all along, is to get rid of all the Titanium color. The bike was full of it when I got I (bags, wheels, motor). All I have left is the the tail piece. |
1313
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 12:19 pm: |
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Have you considered toning down the magnesium tone seat supports and rear grab rail? Maybe the same color as the frame.
I've done that with my Uly, the XT-BOLT, and I wouldn't really recommend it. I had the powdercoater who did the OE work for Buell during the XB days do it (not Classic Coatings, BTW), so I know it was done in THE same color, but with the angles that the tail section spars are in w.r.t. the frame they NEVER look like they are the same color. This made me realize while Buell originally used slightly different colors for these parts.
Some complementary or contrasting color would probably be a better choice, IMHO.
Just my $0.02...
1313 |
Phelan
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 02:51 pm: |
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I'm actually thinking of painting the tail blue to match the wheels, but not 100% yet. If I do, I'll likely paint the triple tail handles black to offset it and hide them a little. I got some spray-on bedliner yesterday- the handguards, beak, and windshield are getting that treatment. Eventually the textured portion of the bags will get it as well, to freshen them up, as they show weathering. |
Ourdee
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 03:37 pm: |
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If the textured part of the bags are the raw plastic, they may respond well to the Mother's product that I used to use on my Jeep plastics. It made them look new. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 04:45 pm: |
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I had the same thought, but they didn't respond as well as I would have liked. The side bags aren't too bad, mainly the top bag is rough. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2015 - 04:35 pm: |
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To update this a bit- this project has crept quite a bit. Bike ran like shit after about an hour and for the rest of the day Saturday, July 11th during the day ride we had at the Buell rally. This was further observed during the dyno shootout on Sunday. So Monday, July 13th, I did the whole routine again of rotating the motor and tearing down to get the heads off, and inspected them. They got REALLY hot, to the point that the intake seats, which were really small after opening them up for 1.900" valves and sinking the valves .050", had moved and started disintegrating. Up to this point, I'd never ridden the bike more than 45 min at a time since the rebuild, so it never got that hot or presented itself as a problem. I think the culprit is too much spark advance, as I only retarded the timing about 1*, and I'm running about 1/2 point more compression than stock (10.5:1). Usually too much advance will show up in choppiness on the dyno, but didn't show very much choppiness at all.
Back to the seats- I decided to cut them out, have the unshrouding and cut marks welded up, and have larger seats installed. So once the larger seats are in, I will re-cut the new seats for the valves and re-cut the deck and squish on the heads as well, to clean them up. I'm also going with heavier duty springs this time around, in case I have been fighting valve float at 6700, but I really think it has something to do with the tune. Once I get the bike back together, I'll retard the timing more and add a bit more fuel to run it more conservatively until I can have more dyno time and a tablet for datalogging rides to fine tune it.
On a separate note, I also have an XT rear shock on the way and will push the forks about 3/4" upward in the trees so I can finally have better footing on the bike. Even with the accessory low seat, it's still a bit tall for me.
(Message edited by phelan on July 22, 2015) |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 01:37 am: |
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It lives! I got the heads back from Ron the night before last, and just had time today to cut and blend the new seats into the heads. The new intake seats are much larger, so they should stay much better. I also switched to Screamin' Eagle springs. I was exhausted after working on it for 13 hours, so I stopped short of buttoning everthing up to ride it home. I still need to hook up the throttle and clutch cables and install the air box and scoops, which I'll do tomorrow. Then the tuning shall commence. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 12:03 pm: |
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That is some serious head work. {thumbsup3} Did you get pictures of the seat work?
How often do you actually run in the 6700 RPM range?\clipart |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 01:22 pm: |
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I have lots of pics of each stage except this latest one, somehow I completely forgot to take pics. After almost 3 weeks of not riding, I was ready to just get it done. The new seats look to be at least .100" larger OD and .050" taller, by them being sank deeper into the head. So a lot more meat for sure. With this kind of power on tap, I hit 6700 at least once on almost every ride. On the dyno though, I rev it over 7,000. I know the risks and they are calculated. Eventually I plan on an '08 crank swap as well, and maybe larger cams at some point. I got these springs for free, otherwise I would have went with bigger beehives to run larger cams later. These are good to about .575 lift; I'd like to run some CAT4s, but they are .590 lift and take some work to fit in XBs, as we only have them made for Sportsters, which have different timing marks and orientation (1,2,3,4 vs 4,3,2,1).
(Message edited by phelan on August 02, 2015) |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 11:23 pm: |
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After playing with the tune a lot today, and putting back almost right where it was, I've come to find that the problem is just bad heat. When the frame is hear soaked, it runs like shit, and when it's cool, it runs awesome. My fan never came on during a ride, only after. I think for now I'm just going to hot wire the fan to a switch and see how that bodes during the heat of the day. I know a larger RSS would help as well, but I think this is a more universal option, and cheaper. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 12:15 am: |
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Phelan: can you change your key on setting at a lower value for your fan in ecm? With a datalog, see what that head temp is actually at , then make a decision as to how much lower you want the fan to come on. Datalog again to see if the new setting turns fan on and if it actually can keep your temp in check. It's possible that in certain conditions, that fan, even on, won't get the heat down to a acceptable level. Hate to see you in all this effort, only to have a bar hopper that you really can't use except in winter. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 12:43 am: |
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I've been using ECM Spy to tune it; os there a place to change the fan logic? If so I haven't found it. My laptop is big for data logging and has terrible battery life, so I'm actually getting a windows tablet (Winbook TW700, to be exact), to put in my RAM mount and data log. I do still plan to get the larger RSS at some point, which will help as well. It handles my commute fine, so I've got that going for me at least. If it can't handle the heat still on longer trips, I'll keep playing with options until it does. I'm not opposed to making a larger oil cooler and switching to the -07 oil pump (the latter I will do at some point anyway). There are 88" and 90" Ulys out there making more heat than me, so I know there's gotta be a solution. Just gotta find it. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 09:06 pm: |
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Turns out my issues aren't overheating after all, that's just where I notice them. I have a •••••• ECM. |
1313
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 09:22 pm: |
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Hmmm...an ECM with 6 red dots on it?
My guess is it must be a braille ECM.
Since braille is read with digits, it is still digital, so it could work...
Glad that you found your issue but wish it were better news,
1313 |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 09:35 pm: |
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Phelan: were those Capitalized dots or lower case dots? Lol! I am using ecm spy for mono 2.0.31.1. I'll try to get a screen shot of that page in a minute. Key on, key off hi/lo settings. That's where I spoke of datalogging and note temperature it runs without fan. Then set fan at what you want. I plan on winter eeprom and summer eeprom for things like fan settings. Always learning. If you have a screwed ecm, could be grounds and timing programs not being changed while bike is running. Ulyman speaks of this often. Retarded timing will heat a motor up. Let me know how you are doing with this. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 09:43 pm: |
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Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 11:02 pm: |
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Sage, that is nice. I don't think I have that functionality, as I'm using the free version. I don't mind donating to get the later version, as long as it will actually work. I've heard a few people complain about not being able to get it after donating. I definitely want it for the fan functionality though.
As far as the ECM, I limped the bike home and washed it to cool it down, then pulled the seat. The ECM was stl quite warm. I started the bike, then tapped the ECM with my knuckle and the bike died. I'm actually moderately relieved that this is the issue, as it's a lot simpler to fix. The misfires are violent and in line with what an intermittent ECM would do. We actually replaced the ECM in an '07 Uly here at the shop a month or two back as it had the same issue. I didn't have any issues at the time so I didn't think about mine. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 11:27 pm: |
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Free ECMspy can do the temperature adjustments, as can TunerPro.
I've used TunerPro to tweak the fan settings on my 08 XB and my 1125s. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 11:42 pm: |
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with my bike running good, I have pulled my seat off and measured temp of ecm and battery, they've been 145 or 150 f . people have looked at me funny when stopping for gas on a long ,hot ride, ill pull the seat off to let that stuff cool while we are taking a break. hmmmmm. seriously. no wonder seat pans sag. cant explain folks issues getting paid version for spy to work. donation process is a pain for sure. download spy, non working version. make donation. when verified of payment, gunter puts a file in your download folder to activate your version of spy. keyed to your year(s) of ecm. you have to do all activity from the device you are going to use as it is also keyed to that device. don't ask me how as I am not a computer guru. I had gotten a little hp notebook for this and work. it is working for me. Froggy speaks highly of tunerpro rt and later this year Ill learn that. I wont go thru all of this again for sure as getting ahold of gunter is spotty. all the other reports of problems are not assuring as well. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 11:47 pm: |
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froggy: what did you change your settings to? my post shows what I am running right now. summers is here for sure in south texas and I am fixing to lower fan on setting a bit more. a question on mlv, are those temp reading in centrigrade? I am assuming they are. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 11:49 pm: |
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and which version of free spy will do the temp changes? |
Phelan
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 12:48 pm: |
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It's nice to have good friends. Got an ECM on the way from a friend of mine free of charge. |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 01:47 pm: |
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I was unaware that the newer versions of ECM-SPY are keyed to the users device. This will be to stop the prog being "passed around" to other users I guess. Also the prog now uses Mega-Log for logging runs and you have to pay them for that which must be in the donation deal.
ECM-SPY, for the most part, is just a nice "graphical overlay" using the numbers in your ECM, as any other prog uses, to make it easier to use for non computer folk.
I would say if you have a 06/07 bike and you can get hold of the free version of ECM-SPY then use it. I can not see any advantage in paying for it for the later bikes over TunerPro which has everything needed and is free. I also do not like MegaLog myself either. I find it is messy and confusing. Just me though.
It is no harder to connect to your bike with TunerPro than ECM-SPY and while TunerPro may seem confusing/ complicated at the start you will find that with a little help and exploration of the prog you will have no problems. I found it a more rewarding experience that helped me a lot in understanding how the bike works.
I am happy to help anyone with this if needed and I also have built/ setup the file that allows you to use the "dial" display if you want it. This is the equivalent to the one in ECM-SPY but better as you can change any part you wish. It runs with a old 06 log of mine and my 10 bikes logs as well so it should be good for all. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 02:02 pm: |
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Marc, you have piqued my interest . I've been thinking of switching to Tuner Pro for a while now, guess I should just do it  . Can you den me this file? Thanks |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 02:49 pm: |
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You do not need this file to run the prog only if you want to use the dash function for "live data" and logged run play back in dash mode. The live "history" will still be fine in either.
Download the prog and set it up for your bike so it is working first. Then save your ECMs .BIN file (as with ECM-SPY) to you computer and examine its files/ play with it off line from the bike. You will find that is enough to start with.
With TunerPro you need to download the bikes ECM data from the bike to your computer. This is called the .BIN file. You then need to download the .XDF and .ADX files for the ECM type which you can get from the ECM-SPY site. Plus of course TunerPro and the Buell file to make it work from there site. The .ADX file it the one to change the dash features. The .XDL files are the ones for the logged runs.
(Message edited by uly_man on August 06, 2015) |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 10:46 pm: |
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Ulyman: thanks for the getting started info. I'm gonna try to get going this weekend on tuner pro and see what it can do for me. |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2015 - 12:49 pm: |
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Ok let us try and get a handle on this heat thing. This bike has a air/ oil cooled engine. This type of engine needs lots of space around it and moving air to cool it via its metal and oil cooler. Clearly there is an issue with this since they fitted a fan to the bike. Why would you otherwise? Probably for the same reason they have on cars with air cooled engines because the engine has been stuffed into a "box type" situation.
This engine can work ok across a wide engine oil temp band of something like 150 - 210 C without issue. The engines cooling is primarily from the oil to the engines metal and from there to air. If the engines metal is already very hot then that transfer rate will be much slower. In the case of this bike the oil temp may be ok but you now have a bikes metal (engine, frame, etc) that has absorbed a huge amount of heat and will take some time to dissipate.
So I would say you need to cool the metal of the engine better which is what the comfort kit and fan flash do. The "comfort kit" makes for more efficient cooling of the top of the engine, due to sealed ducting, while blocking air to the under side if the seat but this will only work at its best with the fan logic flash since a static fan just restricts/ blocks air flow.
Ok. If you have a 08 plus, DDFI-3, bike then get the kit and flash if not already fitted. If you have a 06/ 07 bike then get the kit and try this as you can not do the fan flash.
The fan logic has a number of things going on but the main one is that the fan runs while the bike is moving drawing cool air across the back of the engine. It is bike speed controlled but it runs from about 160 C all the time. The 06 bikes do not even start up until 210 C which is close to its top line temp.
If I still had my 06 bike I would fit the comfort kit and adjust the "key on/ fan on" to say 160 C and the "key on/ fan off" to 140 C, as an experiment, since the 06 bikes run that bit hotter than the later bikes anyway. This would make the fan run at a decent oil temp and not be a problem since thats the same temp as the later bikes work from with the fan flash.
You could fit a fan "override" switch but I would, if you have access, do it in the ECM first.
(Message edited by uly_man on August 08, 2015) |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2015 - 08:57 pm: |
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Uly_Man, I finally got TunerPro RT working,aa well as a Windows Tablet with ECMspy and Megalog for datalogging. I'll soon put TunerPro on the tablet as well. I was wondering, can you send me the ADX for your live data overlay? I'd love to try it out and think it may be more to my liking than ECM spy, since I want to log with TunerPro instead. Thanks!
BTW the bike is running great since I changed the ECM and adjusted the fan parameters with TunerPro. |
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