| Author |
Message |
    
Oopezoo
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 11:09 am: | 
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Made some more headway yesterday before mother nature stopped throwing snow at us and I spent the rest of the afternoon shoveling.
I used my newly made clutch/primary tool to lock up the drive train and remove the primary nut. It went surprisingly easy thanks to a 2ft breaker bar and a cheater pipe. The tool worked like a charm. The best part was that I drilled a hole in the center of it so it could double as a crossbar for my homemade clutch tool.
a 1" cross section of 3" PVC pipe. The 3" pipe had a little too small inside diameter, so I had to ream out the back side just a little using my dremel and a sanding wheel. After that, it slid right over the clutch housing and worked perfect.
Next I pulled the primary, clutch basket, and primary chain. It looks like I might have had a little oil leakage from the crank seal, so THANK YOU to you guys who mentioned it. I have a new one on its way here and have a seal driver my coworker fabbed up for me in the machine shop. I'll take some pics and report once the new seal gets here.
You can see the little puddle of oil under the current seal. That seal was a bit of a PITA, but I managed to get it out. I slid out the spacer, and then tore out the inner race of the seal with some needle nose pliers. To get the outer race of the seal removed, I cut a little notch in the flat of an old screw driver, locked it under the edge of the seal and yanked it out. I'm still going to buy one of those seal pullers listed above. That would have been the cats ass for this.
Looks like the E clip is still on the shifter assembly. I've read a few things about replacing this part, but I can't seem to recall why. Can anyone shed some light? In the meantime I'll go back to searching.
I also pulled the carburetor and intake tube because they were filthy and I ordered new seals for everything. Wow, I'm glad I did. This was the "good" intake seal. The other one completely disintegrated. I'm pretty sure things will run a little smoother with seals that actually seal.
I pulled the starter, followed by removing and reinstalling the crank sensor with some black RTV. There was a puddle of oil under the starter, but I'm not sure if it was coming from the sensor or if it dripped down from when I pulled the rocker boxes. Either way, it won't leak now. I also spent a decent amount of time cleaning and removing old gasket material. I really want to polish all of the aluminum parts, but I'm resisting due to the amount of work it takes and the fact that I want to have it back on the road as soon as this shit weather goes away.
Anyway, thanks again for all of the input. I'll update again once the replacement parts show up.
EDIT: One other thing. I have new header studs coming in the mail. The ones on the bike seem to be OK, but are a bit rusty. Should I chance replacing them with new ones, or just use what I have (I also ordered new exhaust gaskets and nuts)?
(Message edited by OoPEZoO on March 06, 2015) |
Scott_in_nh
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 12:41 pm: |
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When I broke an exhaust stud back around 2008 I replaced them with this kit
https://alloyboltz.com/catalog/product_info.php?cP ath=13_267_293&products_id=1903&osCsid=jegj8amioot mn5vjc4mmogop67
and I used XB flanges - I can't remember if they are SS or aluminum, but they take a shine, don't rust and look better!
I've bought several other bolt kits from them and have been pleased every time  |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 09:01 pm: |
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Keith,
You made it difficult. You don't need to pull the clutch stack apart to pull the basket.
Just remove the snap ring under the throwout bearing holder. Gives you access to the clutch hub nut (left hand threads BTW). You can remove the entire clutch basket, chain and stator rotor in one "chunk".
Again, no need to disassemble the clutch stack. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 09:02 pm: |
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Also, those were some seriously roached intake seals.. make sure to use Silglyde you you reassemble the intake seals. |
Mcelhaney14
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 09:49 pm: |
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Oopezoo, the clip on the end of the shift drum have been known to fail. I had one break on my X1 and found both halves of it stuck to the primary drain plug magnet. I think a new one is only a couple of bucks so change it at minimum, but the real ticket would be to pull the drum, machine the end to get rid of the everything outboard of the clip, drill and tap and screw the thing on. Thats what I eventually did on my X1 to ensure I would never have another clip failure. (I only had the one failure)
You also have the older detent plate. The newer ones have more pointed lobes. I don't know if it makes a big difference or not, maybe someone else can chime in. |
Oopezoo
| | Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 10:51 pm: |
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Bluzm2.....I intentionally disassembled the clutch plates first so I could remove the spring plate from the clutch assembly. Going to give it a whirl with some extra plates in there instead and see how I like it |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 10:32 am: |
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Wellll, that's a whole nother story! Carry on...
Seriously though, you will notice a bit of difference in you clutch action when your get rid of the grenade plate. At least I did.
Mine had a narrower "friction" zone after the change. Took a short while to get used to it. Other than that it has worked out great.
To William's point, the clips are a weak area. I keep a couple on hand just in case. I never reuse them.
Like he said, the best course is to drill and tap and use a button head.
The new detent plate does make a difference. More positive shifts and fewer false neutral shifts.. |
Brother_in_buells
| | Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 11:08 am: |
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Here it is,
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/716302.html?1375585465 |
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