| Author | Message | ||
     Pikeben08 |
I started to tear down the X1 since I have oil leaks from various places and it also started misfiring last season and upon removing the header I found this:  Both front and rear heads look the same. Hopefully it just needs new seals and lapping? Or is it totally FUBARed? While I'm pretty good with a wrench I feel that this might be a bit beyond my tools and abilities. Does anybody know of a reputable shop in Southeast michigan that can give the heads a once over? How much does that even cost anyway? Regarding the misfire I think that may have been due to an unplugged head temp sensor, but I didn't find that until I had already removed the fuel tank. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Don't know enough from the pictures but I'm guessing they are not beyond repair. When I did a complete rebuild on my S1W, I had http://www.hobancycle.com/index.html do my heads. They have a great reputation as bike builders/racers. Give them a shout. | ||
| Jefc73 |
Ben you can try Ed's Heads and motorcycle repair in South Lyon if you want someone close to look at them. Motor City Harley has a lot of work done by them. I haven't but have heard good things. If your looking to send out then NRHS,Hammer, Revolution performance or even Cycle Rama would be good choices. (Message edited by jefc73 on February 25, 2015) | ||
| Kalali |
I've never peeked inside the head so could you explain what is out of order, aside from the obvious carbon/oil build up. Thanks. | ||
| Buellrobot |
Is that photo from the exhaust header outlet? Just making sure I'm oriented correctly... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Pull the heads off, put them in bubble wrap, and send them to CycleRama (Pammy), and tell her to do whatever needs done. You won't regret it... | ||
| Phelan |
Eh, I've seen MUCH worse. A valve job would clean and fix that, if whoever does it like we do. We disassemble and bead blast the heads and valves, polish the valve stems, replace the guides, re cut the valve seats, lap the valves to match the seats, clean it all up and reassemble everything, measuring and balancing the spring heights during reassembly. | ||
| Pikeben08 |
Yes, it's from the exhaust outlet. I was just concerned about the amount of carbon buildup and the oil leakage. Thanks for the input guys, I actually feel a bit better. I'm not so surprised I found this, I'm the third owner and the bike has almost 40k on it. It hasn't been smoking but I do consume a quart about every 1000 miles or so. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Valve job with new guides and seals along with new rings and a Cometic top end gasket kit should have it running better than new. $340 from NRHS for all that. | ||
| Pikeben08 |
Top end kit I have, this was the reason for the teardown in the first place. | ||
| General_ulysses |
Looks like it could be: (1) bad valve seal and/or (2) bad valve guide. Valve seal is a simple rubber seal that slides over the valve stem. Like all air cooled bikes, these engines can run hot, especially the exhaust valve on the hind cylinder. The hot exhaust valve stem may have melted the seal to the point where it's failing. Also, if the valve guide's excessively worn, it can allow oil to sneak past the seal and run down into the runner area like that as well. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Might as well P&P while you are in there. | ||
| Buelliedan |
if you do not need the gasket kit then the price would be $240 from NRHS |
