| Author | Message | ||
     Budgolf |
Anyone ever do one without buying the kit? Just fab it up yourself? What all did you do? | ||
| Stevel |
I did not do the fab, I bought a kit. In order to do the fab, you need access to a milling machine, lathe and tig welding equipment, but you would also need to make some fixtures and unless you can sell several of these to offset the cost, the investment in time and materials would be at least twice the cost of the kit. | ||
| Nobuell |
I purchased a kit also. That would be a tuff job to design and fabricate one off. | ||
| Budgolf |
I'm not sure it would be that much guys. Several drag racers have extended the stock one and one gut I know of converted a honda swingarm. Not saying it would be cheap but doesn't seem like it would be that difficult or expensive. | ||
| Nobuell |
Good luck | ||
| Budgolf |
Here's what I'm talking about. But without the extensions. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/158 664/658558.html?1328503483 | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
How much is the EBR kit? What is included? At least on the tubers, its super duper simple | ||
| Kruizen |
Just priced out a chain conversion thru one of the new dealers with the new rear rim. totaled out at MSRP around $3,000 | ||
| Froggy |
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/chain-drive/1125-chain-drive-swingarm-kit.htm l $1990
Almost everything you need, but you still need to have your wheel bored out for the different bearings, and you need the chain and sprocket. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
two grand?!?!?!?! And then more work will still be needed? Holy cow | ||
| Budgolf |
My thoughts exactly. I could be wrong, but I imagine our buddies with the extensions have done it for considerably less. | ||
| Nobuell |
I noticed the pictures of the drag swing arms have no provisions for chain tensioning. I do not think that will work on a road bike but may be fine for drag bikes. The cost of materials would not be to bad but the cost for welding, fixturing and machining could be high. Unless you do it all your self. Time does have a cost as well. | ||
| Budgolf |
Yeah youre right nobuell I dont see it either. Im sure they had to do something but I dont know what they did. I dont have the skills to figure it out on my own, but it sure would be cool if someone else did. | ||
| Stevel |
I suppose I should have been a bit more explicit in my earlier response. I do have the skills, tools and facility to build a swing arm of my own design or modify an existing one. As a rule, I rarely make a part that someone else makes adequately, because it is rarely less expensive. When deciding to make a part, time is the number one cost consideration. Time to design the part and fixtures required, as well as the time to source and acquire the materials needed. You must also figure in the machine setup time for each and every operation. Time is valuable, even if the time is your own. Of all the time required, the actual fabrication time is probably less than 10% of the total. Unless the remaining 90% can be offset by quantity, the one-off cost is always more than buying the part in. I only make parts and pieces not obtainable elsewhere. Unfortunately, for the 1125 Buell, it's almost everything. | ||
| Battyone |
I had sprockets made over here in the UK, mainly because I was worried about using the EBR520 chain. As I was 100kg in my gear I reckoned a 530 would be safer. But Little Joe got about 3,000 drag strip miles in on one chain. With the set up shown in those pics I had issues with chain tension, as the sprocket center, swingarm spindle and axle are all offset. But as I was drag racing I just set chain tension at max squat and ran guides to keep the slack running straight. For road use it would be nice to run a sprung idler. I don't know how the EBR bikes do it with a fixed idler? Chain must be run a little slack??? Can hardly stretch like a belt under suspension squat. | ||
| Nobuell |
Battyone For track use, the chain tension must be set at maximum shock compression. The fixed idler does work somewhat like the belt tensioner trying to keep the chain tension constant, but not quit. I pulled the spring from the shock to determine maximum shock compression. I set the chain slack to 0.4 to 0.6" at that point. That translates to approximately 1.25" when the shock is fully extended. I check the chain slack on the top of the swingarm because of the idler sprocket. |
