| Author | Message | ||
     Shorty_ii |
I'm trying to install the race kit muffler and all was going well until I tried to loosen the rear axle. The pinch bolt is fully loosened. I got an old torque wrench (the kind with the beam indicator) and watched it up to 150 ft lbs. The service manual calls for 48 to 52 ft. lbs. The bike has only 2,200 miles on it (03 XB9S). I got it recently with 1,100 miles on it and the D207's are getting so ratty I think they must be original. Any advice? I'm resisting going over 150 ft lbs fearful that it could strip the threads on the swingarm. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
EWF!! Thats alot of weight. Try dousing the threads on both sides with some penetrating lube, and taking that pinch bolt all the way out just to be certain. Mine creaked pretty good when taking the tension off too! Look up from under the pinch bolts location when it's out to make sure no debris or old threads are still lodged in there. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Those aren't left hand threads are they?  | ||
| Beast |
Rear axle just normal right hand threads can be a little tight. | ||
| Shorty_ii |
Service manual makes no mention of reverse threads. Only the front is and it's clearly marked on the fork leg. I've got the pinch bolt out. I am going out now to get some penetrating oil, as all I had to use was WD-40. Tried again at over 150 ft lbs. Big time worry. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Did you take the belt tensioner off? And you know there are pinch bolts on both sides right? | ||
| Daves |
Pinch bolt only on one side, the nut side. They are regular thread. My question is why are you taking the wheel off to put a race muffler on it? I've had 3 different mufflers on my demo and haven't taken the wheel loose to do any of them. Take the front belt pulley cover off and you should be able to get to the muffler clamps without removing the idler or rear wheel. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Gah your right Dave I should wait til I am fully awake before posting, either that or drink the first cup of caffiene faster... | ||
| Shorty_ii |
I was trying to loosen the axle the 15 turns to loosen the belt to get the idler off per service manual. I had no idea you could get the rear clamps without taking the idler off. Two other articles I read both removed the idler. But I will shortly have the need to change the rear tire. Despite my moderate riding style the rear tire looks like crap at 2,200 miles. So the axle loosening problem remains. So far no one has said they have had this problem. And any idea of how much pressure I can put on it without causing very expensive problems. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
The first time I took the rear wheel off, I had to take the tensioner off first to releive enough tension to get the axle bolt loose. Took a bit of work to get the tensioner off, but once I did that axle bolt came loose very nicely and I haven't had to repeat the exercise since. Everything comes loose like its suppossed to now. | ||
| Shorty_ii |
Latest try was with my best torquewrench set at 200 ft lbs, but nary a budge. I think I'll have a few brews to take my mind off the potential expense. | ||
| Blake |
Forget the torque wrench. Put a big mongo wrench/cheater-bar on it, and break it loose. Breaking torque is often a LOT higher than make-up torque, especially if loctite is involved. Higher bolt breaking torque is due to a significantly higher coefficient of friction for static surfaces versus for sliding surfaces. | ||
| Darthane |
Yikes, I hope they didn't put loctite on his axle - it's supposed to be anti-sieze! Shorty, you can probably wiggle the idler pulley off without loosening the axle - it may help, as Wycked noted. Other than that, spray some oil on the left side (where the threads are), walk away, come back a half hour or hour later with a big breaker bar and crack it loose. | ||
| Shorty_ii |
Breakthrough, finally. Thanks for all the inputs. I'm a naturally cautious person when it comes to precision mechanicals. I live by the the recommended torque values. (Thanks to a machinest/race engine building father). Yes, I've experienced many other high break out situations, but given the high high cost of the swingarm I was extremely cautious. It finally broke free at somewhat over 250 lbs. Blake, by that time I was seriously considering the five foot pipe extension, but wanted to give it one more try. You are absolutely correct about the higher bolt breaking torque and as I said I almost went for the big one. A very sincere thanks to all for your suggestions and I do appreciate all of them very much. Please remember, I've a very cautious 70 year old and can't quite bring myself to let it all hang out as it's sometimes required. Now for tomorrow and finishing the job. Futz on Sunday, ride on Monday. | ||
| Daves |
Just be VERY careful with the belt as to not twist or bend it. Dave | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I just took off my rear for a tire change. I too had a hard time and just stood on the ratchet handle. I weigh 230 lbs so one bounce did the trick! Was scared like you. I like to be careful with my pride and joy... | ||
| Ingemar |
If its still worth anything to ya, I had the problem as well. I finally got out to a local garage, borrowed a friggin' large wrench and wacked it with a heavy piece of wood several times. Then the little bugger came loose. But before I did that, I was using so much force on it that I almost tipped the bike over including the guy trying to hold it. And yes, the pinch bolt was removed. | ||
| Daves |
PS, Shorty, I think it is waaaaay cool that at 70 you are riding, and on a Buell! I can only hope I will be able to still be riding at that time in my life, got 29 years to go! Dave | ||
| Hogs |
YEah I agree with you there Dave hes got 21 on me and 20 on the wife......... | ||
| Ingemar |
I sometimes feel like 70 ... but I guess that doesn't count does it? |
