| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
When I dont wanna make a mess I spray it somewhere else and brush on to where I want to. | ||
| Ncdragster |
Does anyone know the specs or a site to go to get them for Buell camshafts? I have a 1996 S1, I think the cams are the ones that came in it, but I'm not sure. I measured the lift at the valve and it seemed to be about .468. I'm getting ready to put a set of Thunderstorm heads on and want know cam timing to calculate effective versus actual compression. Much thanks. Wayne Pollack NCDRAGSTER@aol.com | ||
| Chuck |
Has anyone else tried cams from a Sportster "Sport" in their M2? I finished this "install" yesterday. Throttle response seems better at the bottom; but I wanted to compare notes on carb jetting with someone who had a similar set up. Seems okay now; but probably can be made better. | ||
| Bostonbuell |
i have 00buell m2 and the clutch cable is leaking from the line itself not near the primary case( i think it hit a sharp part on the muffler bracket)this bike has only 50mi on it and i dont want it to sit at the dealer for a month ,is this something i can do myself or is a pain in the ASS i see the cable goes threw a clamp that is on the engine bolt down..... thanx///// buell in boston | ||
| Blake |
Schedule an appointment ahead of time to avoid waiting. I have never left my bike at a dealership. If you stick to your guns and request a scheduled appointment you should have an enjoyable couple of hours (max) to kill at your dealership, but warning, you will probably end up walking away with a few things you've found you couldn't live without. | ||
| Bostonbuell |
thanx blake, i was thinking the same thing but when i called service dept,i said i wanted an appointment and he says well your gonna have to wait about a month ,we are really busy,if you want to drop it off and put it in rotation you might have a better chance. i figure maybe i should do it myself but dont want to get in over my head.... | ||
| Blake |
BB: I personally would find another dealer. If they cannot work-in a simple clutch cable replacement for a month, they obviously don't give a damn about your business. You should be able to replace the cable easily. I'll post the manual instructions here tonight. My batteries are about out on the loptop right now and I am without AC power. | ||
| Court |
BonstonBuell: I'd buy the cable and the service manual and go to work. If you need the parts and manual, I'd check with a couple of the "known good" dealers like Manchester or Topeka. Either one of them should have BOTH the cable and the service manaul in stock. Court | ||
| Mikej |
I'm thinking that in my tank bag I'll have a Hotlist of the several dealers who have shown that they keep an abundant inventory and are willing to answer the call when requested. They will be the ones I call if I fall over on some remote mountain road and need parts overnighted/sameday delivered to whatever miniscule town I end up in. Hopefully the hotlist will be nothing more than something else to carry, like insurance, that I hope to never need to use but take some little comfort in knowing it is there if needed. | ||
| Bostonbuell |
hey thanks blake,court,..i bought the service manual for the cyclone but it really does not give a step by step,but i did not know there was a parts manual for it.....im going to try to fix it myself i just hope i dont f*** it up. i thought the muffler was going to be easy also, seem's like things on the buell look easy but end up with long night's in my garage swearing my head off | ||
| Blake |
The cable will be WAY easier than a muffler swap. The muffler will soon teach you how to remove the tranny drain plug without removing the muffler. I use a pump at least everyother tranny oil change after the first few. | ||
| Bostonbuell |
where did my post go? oh well.....anyways callled the dealer for a clutch cable and was told it has to be ordered and buell parts can take up to a month to get.....is this true and why because harley parts get there in about 3days. with all the problems buell owners have you would think they would have some parts for us..... | ||
| Blake |
Got my speedo cable in 5 days! Order the cable and quit yer worryin! | ||
| Charley |
I burn't a hole in my piston and deformed my cilinder wall doing around 4500/4800 Rpm. i got some ideas about how it happend but i'm open for suggestions. I dynoed the bike and all was setup well , rode about 2500 miles on it in this setup (exhaust and carb)before it happend , total milage on the bike is 8000 miles and 2000 of that were in complete stock setup. I just filled my tank with new gas before hitting the highway and after 15 miles i stranded.  my cilinder is now oval   As i have to buy new cilinders and split the cases i want to try something else probably stick with the stock displacement. I got some things in my mind but give me something to think about. | ||
| Jmartz |
Charley: Now is the time for some flywheel shaving, careful balancing and titanium rods. The top end is up to you but individual runner heads cam make 115 HP... | ||
| Ralph |
Charley, you sure had some detonation going on there. bighairyralph | ||
| Airborne |
Charley. Please enlighten us as to your set up and what you think your probable cause was. Sorry to hear about your situation. I live at the 4000+ rev range on a regular basis and would like to avoid this problem. | ||
| Charley |
At the moment of "blast" my setup was. -Stock pistons with Total Seal rings -0.035 Squish -10.5:1 CR -Ported heads -Red Shift 567 cams -US headers with supertrapp IDS -Mikuni HSR 42 with Buell race filter -Crane HI4-E ignition , single fire with Dyna coil -Autolite finewire platinum plugs -Euro gearing it made 100.4 optimal and 98.5 street tuned i had a flat torquecurve from 2600>5000 Rpm of 82 Ft.lbs The motor was happy and a lot of fun to ride fast but smooth. | ||
| Rocketman |
Same old problem Charley, the stock cylinders are junk mate ! That's what caused your overheating problems. Thanks for the loan of the wheel. Don't worry, I'll not charge you for the free advertising  Rocket in England | ||
| Charley |
He Rocket i'm glad i get the advertising for free now i can buy a set of new cilinders. I got a brochure of the Revolution cylinders made by Millenium Technologies , anyone have any experiance with it ? it seems Don Tilley used them ? Can anyone give me the adress, fax and e-mail from AAC. I picked up another set of stock cylinders (late 2000) and the cylinder wall was also deformed. On my cylinder on the pushrod side the liner is loose from top to bottom. I had blowby trough the gap between the aluminium and the steel linerthat probably gave an airleak with the result of overheating and a "blast" | ||
| Ralph |
Charley, what kind of shape was the front cylinder/piston in? Could you post another photo of the cylinder, that one is kind of funky. Were you still running the stock bore or were you over, if so by how much? Also, is the cylinder cut for an "O" ring, if not, what the devil is that ring around your liner? Lastly, how out of round is the cylinder now (lastly my butt, I'll have more questions five minutes from now ) By the way, sweet looking bike. I know we aren't supposed to need the dual disc in the front, but man, it sure looks right. What's with the rear shock spring? By the way, think about using Axtells iron cylinders. They are heavier but they don't change shape. As you may have noticed, there is something to be said for a rigid cylinder. bighairyralph | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Ralph...got a tuning question for you. I put cams in my 2000 M2 from a Sportster "Sport". Not really that radical. I've done away with the air box and put a Drag Specialties screen and filter in its place, and I have a "gutted" V & H slip-on (the intake and exhaust I've had on for a while). After installing the cams, I "upped" the pilot from a 45 to a 48; but I've still got a 200 main (which came stock on my bike) and also the stock NOKK needle. Carburation is almost perfect...but for the tiniest of "flat" spots which I think occurs near 4000 rpm (no tach). If the needle was adustable, my first inclination would be to drop it by one position, because it acts like a "rich" problem......Do you think I could benefit from the N65C needle or am I too fat on the main? Does anyone know what the stock carb on the Sportster "Sport" came with? Carburation was flawless before cams; but I don't think this problem would register on a dyno. I only feel it when I'm taking it easy (gradually moving through that part of the "rev range"). Thanks in advance for your thoughts. | ||
| Charley |
Charley, what kind of shape was the front cylinder/piston in? >Haven't get it of yet Could you post another photo of the cylinder, that one is kind of funky. >Tommorow, i don't got a digital camara so the film is being processed.this one is just a scan on my flatbed scanner! Were you still running the stock bore or were you over, if so by how much? >STOCK bore Also, is the cylinder cut for an "O" ring, if not, what the devil is that ring around your liner? >I use a gasket with a seperate flat copper ring as a fire-ring wich is surrouded by "paper" they work great en never leak.The ring rest on the liner so it pushed it out of the way. Lastly, how out of round is the cylinder now (lastly my butt, I'll have more questions five minutes from now ) >the liner is back on it's place but it rised up and the aluminium on the pushrod side is 0.0225 deformed. By the way, sweet looking bike. I know we aren't supposed to need the dual disc in the front, but man, it sure looks right. >It works even better than it looks What's with the rear shock spring? >I use the non leaking,great working, WP with a Hyperpro spring (•••• recall) By the way, think about using Axtells iron cylinders. They are heavier but they don't change shape. As you may have noticed, there is something to be said for a rigid cylinder. >Yeah,i know i used a lot of Axtell cylinders on bigtwins and drag sporty's but they are so heavy for a Buell | ||
| Smokin84 |
Charley, Sorry about the bad luck, but think of the possibilities... What was the ignition timing (curve)? VOES or no VOES? | ||
| Ralph |
Oh Chuck, silly you. Never ask me a tuning question. I'm somewhere around clueless. I just ask questions, never ever answer them (something to do with being constantly wrong). I'm sure Aaron or some other knowledgable gentleman on this board would be happy to help you out. Charley, thanks for all the answers. If you don't mind please keep updating with any new information (like the front when you pop it). With the mileage you had, it sure sounds like some really bad gas. Thanks for all the answers, Charley. Wish I could actually help. bighairyralph | ||
| Jmartz |
Chuck: 48 is bit thick in general. Perhaps some sea level guys with 88 inch motors could use them. The main needle/jet need to be a pair. By this I mean that with each specific needle a certain orifice size will be optimal. I would try a 45 slow, 2.5 turns on the bleed screw and the stock needle with a 190/195 or the N65C (a thinner at the waist for a richer midrange) with a 185/190. Drill the slide, round up the nose and weaken the spring. jose | ||
| Chuck |
Jose --- thanks for the help. Ralph --- thanks for nothing  | ||
| Charley |
Here some better pictures of my blast   | ||
| Hoser |
I hate when that happens !! | ||
| Turnagain |
Help! -– knowledge sought. What does a broken tensioner sound like? Or a deflated lifter? Better yet, how about this, what sounds like grinding rocks / gravel? Quick story is, I pull up to a light and I hear this awful grinding noise. Pull over near the CIA HQ, say this doesn’t sound good and thinking tow. I crank it a few times with the noise going on and then it fires up and sounds OK. Ride it gingerly home. Any clues appreciated. Thanks, Steve(2) |
