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Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 11:23 am: |
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Show me your cans. I know some have removed the coolant overflow bottle and used a race style catch can. I searched but didnt't find good pics. I know the unfiltered line into the round hole in the airbox is for vacuum. The square sponge filter has disintegrated and there an oil film in the airbox. Does this need aibox vacuum too to work correctly? Could that be ran to a catch can along with the fuel vent on the front of the tank? Could you just turn the top of that plastic fuel vent 180* so you could mount it to a catch can up front? I'm trying to make a small setup that would also fit under the stock CR headlight so when I went to the track I can just pop off the light and install the front fairing stay and have an instant R. |
Rodrob
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 01:56 pm: |
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Ok, I'm not sure I understand exactly what you are asking, but here goes - The square end hose with the sponge, is the crankcase vent. The sponge is not essential, but helps to mitigate excess oil output to the air box and debris from getting back to the crankcase. If you have a lot of oil in the air box, you might be overfilling the crankcase, or you are getting blow by past the rings. The round tube that has vacuum, is the intake for the IAC (idle air controller) and provides filtered air for the idle circuit. It does not provide vacuum to the air box. The vent hose on the front right top of the frame is the fuel tank vent and vents excess pressure as the fuel heats up or cools down. You can rotate the vent outlet 180 deg and drill a hole in the airbox cover (not the actual air box) to run a vent hose to a bottle in the front fairing area. If you look at pics of the EBR race bikes, this is what they do. I find that small Nalgene bottles readily available at camping stores work well. I have also used large airbrush bottles as the already have a hose and nipple attached. The radiator overflow can be routed to a bottle in the front as well. This is usually only necessary if you have changed from the stock fairings. I'll post pics later when I'm at the shop. (Message edited by rodrob on September 02, 2014) |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 03:09 pm: |
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Thanks Rob, I don't have a ton of oil out of the crankcase vent but it had made a difference in cars to get this out of the intake. I will leave it. I will also leave the IAC and the coolant overflow stock. I would like to see your fuel vent setup. I have seen the 180' turn on the racebikes but not the bottle setup. The fuel overflow was the real objective here but I wanted to see if I needed a CC on any other spots. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 03:27 pm: |
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It looks like there might be a one way check valve on the tank vent on the EBR racebikes. Does yours have a check valve like some dirtbikes do? It seems like it should flow both ways. Am I seeing something different? A fuel/air separator? |
Rodrob
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 03:40 pm: |
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They do use a check valve, I do not. There is a check valve in the stock plastic fitting to prevent liquid fuel from escaping in a tip over. You don't want vented fuel getting back into the tank because it has been boiled off and therefore is only part of the fuel formula, as different components vaporize at different temps. My overflow bottle is simply zip tied to the faring stay. EBR has a custom mount where the headlight goes on the 1190RS/RX that holds the overflow bottles, ECM and Data Logger. (Message edited by rodrob on September 02, 2014) |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 05:45 pm: |
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Attached is a pic of the bottles on my track bike. I fabricated aluminum brackets. The bottles are held in place with velcro straps. Please note that there are additional vent hoses that are tapped into the top of the bottles. I use plastic barbed fitting that are inserted into the bottles with an interference fit. They are required to allow the bottles to vent.
Rodrob - You mentioned that you have eliminated the check valve in the vent. My contact at EBR also stated that they keep the check valve. It never really made sense to me but I kept the CV none the less. I would think that eliminating the check valve would allow the condensed fuel trapped in the vent tube to drip back into the tank when cooling down. What is your experience with this issue? |
Rodrob
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 05:54 pm: |
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Your setup looks great. I did not eliminate the stock check valve, I just did not add a secondary one in the line. My overflow line does not extent into the bottle far enough to allow siphoning, and I have only had negligible amounts of fuel left in the line itself. |
Stirz007
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 07:34 pm: |
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Similar to Rob and Tim for radiator overflow and routed fuel puke tube to the belly (copper line). I thermotech'd the inside of the frame and as long as I don't fill it too near the top, I've managed to avoid noticeable boil-off or venting of gas - arguably sketchy I know, so don't hate on me please :
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Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 08:29 pm: |
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Stirz007 - Holy flaming belly pan Batman Rodrob - My original set-up had the hose low enough to siphon. I since reduced the length to preclude siphoning because it seemed to create to much back pressure. |
Stirz007
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 09:11 pm: |
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Thought about routing to the tailpipe but figured that might not be race legal. Could be great fun, though. (The preceding is not an endorsement of any potential illegal or dangerous acts) |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 09:50 pm: |
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It may look like the Porsche Turbo race cars with deceleration flames. I would go for it! Just make sure the fringe on your race leathers are not in the way. |