| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
Prior to my R’s 36k mile major service, I noticed the bike was feeling a little rough. Especially at low speed, throttle response had become abrupt and jerky. From a closed throttle, in 2nd gear, cracking the throttle open, regardless of how gentle, was rewarded with what felt like an abrupt jerk in the drivetrain, which felt like a loose chain. But we all know this bike doesn’t have a chain! Also, it got to the point where I really needed to keep the revs above 3k RPM to get a smooth drive out of a corner, which in many right hand turns in urban environments mean 1st gear. Bringing the revs down below 3k in gear the engine felt rough. I really thought it was a worn out Cush drive. Finally, I noticed the engine didn’t rev quite as quickly as before. So I just finished the 36k service. Air filter was cleaned, spark plugs were changed, valves were inspected (but not adjusted; they were all in middle spec). I also replaced the primary drive pulley because I noticed the run out was getting big. Finally, I removed the Charcoal Canister to eliminate the bike’s hot starting difficulty. After these simple procedures, I rode the bike around to make sure all was well. Low and behold. The bike feels much improved! Engine is smoother and it revs faster. Even better, the low speed/RPM jerkiness is gone! I can lug the engine down to 2.5k RPM in second gear, then pick up the throttle (gradually) and the engine responds smoothly, with no abruptness whatsoever. I’m very happy and was definitely worth the work. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Nice info there. Can you tell me when the last time you had your valves adjusted? I am due for the 24,000 service and am wondering if this valve check is really needed? I had the valves done at 12,000 miles and they were all good except maybe one that was on the tight side. | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Rogue, I can't tell you how glad I am that you finally got her finished!! Now you don't have to ride that pretty VFR all the time...  I just changed my oil here at work (27k). Felt good to pour in some Amsoil. The engine quieted down a lot. Still wanna change the plugs, I forgot to do it when I did my valve service/cam replacemment/EBR rotor install. I also cleaned my filter this past weekend. Had to pick quite a few bugs out of the pleats. Fresnobuell, Rogue just did his 36k service. I believe the last time was at the 24k mark. He told me that he purposely set the valves on the loose side. Rogue is also fairly easy on his engine. I had to replace a couple at my second service, and will probably have to replace a couple more at the 36k as well. (I tend to ride my CR a little harder than Rogue, which explains the reason I had to replace shims and he didn't.) Were your valves in the middle of spec? Were they on the tight side? I'm sure you'd be fine, but it's not my bike...  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Dhays, the VFR will sadly be sitting for a while now. LOL! FresnoBuell, I would definitely make the effort to inspect the valves at every interval. Because in addition to knowing whether they need adjustment or not, you will also have the opportunity to inspect other areas of the engine, and especially the top end, to make sure all is well. Also, since only one valve was adjusted (they did adjust it right) at 12k, chances are more will need adjustment at 24k miles. I'm a little OCD on my machines. So I can't stand not knowing if everything is right with my ride. So I know it would bug me and haunt me at every right if I didn't know if my valves needed adjustment or not. But that's my take on it. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I also highly recommend you remove that Charcoal Canister, especially if you live in Fresno. Man! It gets HOT over there! As Dhays explained it to me, expanding gasoline from the bike's tank is vented into the CAli Can. The charcoal inside the can "absorbs" this excess fuel and vents the fumes back into the engine. But the fumes is enough to create an overly rich mixture when you attempt to restart the motor when hot. If you've ever experienced your motor spinning and spinning for a restart after sitting for a few minutes or up to 15 minutes on a hot day, that's what's happening. By removing the Cali Can and routing the vent hose to the atmosphere, you get rid of that condition. You have to "cap" or seal the hose going back to the engine to close the loop. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Yes the Cali can is long gone. One of the best things, along with the solenoid, that can easily be done to make it a much better running machine. AS far as the valve check goes, it may be a winter project...my other R has about 17K miles and it's going to be for sale soon. I will be running this bike until it becomes no longer economically feasible to keep it on the road. Maybe there will be a two or three year old, low mile EBR in the future for me.  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Yeah I don't know why I waited this long to ditch that canister. It was such a simple fix for a very annoying issue. I also ditched the Active Solenoid at 24k miles. |
