Author |
Message |
Puls4521
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:55 pm: |
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So I have been having some electrical issues since I got my '98 S1W back together from my winter complete rebuild. The bike starts great once, but every time after that the battery drains, it would appear the battery is not being charged. It had a brand new voltage regulator last year before my rebuild. So I took a multi-meter to it today. I get 12.4 volts at the battery when its running. And a very concerning 1.5 V A/C at the stator plug at 2000 rpm. I know that this should be between 38-52 volts at 2000 rpm. So any other checks I should do before I go ahead and order a new stator?? Thanks guys! |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 08:52 pm: |
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Stator plug should be almost no resistance between the pins and infinite resistance to ground from each pin. And once you're fixed, consider the threads on using other than stock tranny oil. |
Puls4521
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 09:48 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips. I forgot to mention I checked resistance. Between pins was about .8 ohms and from pin to ground was infinite. I'm running amsoil 20w-50 v - twin oil in both the tranny and engine. |
Devdawg
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 10:51 am: |
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If Gear Oil (GL-5) was ever used in your tranny, as the old manual calls for, you may have a stator issue. Happened on my '99 M2 even though I switched from GL-5 gear oil, the cooper wiring was corroded enough to eventually short out. Pull the primary cover, primary chain and follow the stator wire...I bet you find scorch marks. |
Puls4521
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 11:02 am: |
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Damn! I am the 3rd owner, so there is a legitimate possibility that that might be the cause. Also I know when I bought the bike, one of the first things the PO told me I would have to do is drain the primary. He said he had tried using royal purple oil in the engine and tranny, and it made the clutch slip bad. Anyone know of any problems using amsoil? If that is indeed the problem, the last thing I want to do is put a new stator in just to take it out again. I personally have never heard of any issues, but I would love to hear more well informed opinions. It does seem a bit odd though that my multimeter didn't confirm a shorted stator. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 12:39 pm: |
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The stator is probably just shorted to itself (instead of to ground). Plenty of stators fail without the GL-5 oil also. It happens. |
Rjn
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 01:03 pm: |
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Just orderd a new VR, same issue. À non charging battery. Measured everything through, good battery and good stator. Virus must be spreading |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 07:40 pm: |
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A mid-summer oil thread is a little out of season but.... I stumbled on a few comments that oils that have sulfur will damage the stator. My stator failed and I just switched to Redline. It'll be a few months before I get around to investigating the cause. Could be just coincidence and actually caused by to much heate4d gear or simply age and mileage but the nuisance factor is enough to issue a caution. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 07:52 pm: |
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According to the advice from this thread:http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/742693.html?1405036254 , the lack of AC voltage at the pins at 2000 rpm confirms stator failure. |
Puls4521
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 10:12 pm: |
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That is also my suspicion. Welp, oh well! Stator is no fun to replace, but really not the worst thing in the world. More annoying than anything. |
Lakes
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 07:35 am: |
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Strange , i have never had stator issues with Harleys & been riding them since late 70's i never used stock primary oil, do a lot of miles call them kilometres here. i used auto trans fluid type F |
Puls4521
| Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 09:11 am: |
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Are all tuber stators the same? I am looking to buy a stator. I may end up just going to American Sport Bike or my local harley/ebr dealer, but thats $120! Im thinking I may try a used one, there is one posted on ebay for $25 tough to not be tempted by that! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-Sportste-B uell-Stator-1998-95-99-Buell-91-03-Sportster-/1113 98630536?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=ite m19efe03488&vxp=mtr But its off a S3, which I imagine would be the same stator. Any thoughts?? |
Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 10:00 am: |
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Is the buell stator the same for a sportster for matching year ? |
Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 10:06 am: |
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Drag specialties has a stator for a. 98 sportster for 65.00... Never had a stator issue so haven't chased this rabbit down the hole.... Is it the same stator? Will lead length be correct? Voltage output? |
Steveford
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:39 pm: |
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Accel makes one for the Evo Fruitster, same thing, high quality, leads are correct. Drag Specialties sells a lot of Taiwanese gar-badge. |
Puls4521
| Posted on Monday, July 28, 2014 - 09:56 am: |
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Well pretty clear why the battery wasn't charging!
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Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, July 28, 2014 - 11:16 am: |
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My STATER/ROTOR wisdom is: HEAT KILLS Run the same oil in the transmission as the engine just in case the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad ... Adjust the PRIMARY CHAIN to 3/4 inch play on the tight chain tight spot because a too tight primary chain causes more heat which cooks the stator ... Do not try to get the last electron out of your battery as when your charging system tries to charge(force electrons) a battery going dead, it cause's HEAT which makes electrical components go into melt down/burn up... Dirty connections cause a high resistance opens which causes heat when the charging system tries to force electrons thru/pass the dirty connection ... Keep your battery on a trickle charge(know as floating the battery) when not riding which helps protect your charging system and makes you battery last longer |