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Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 05:57 pm: |
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i have a 95 s2, just this last week i ran into an issues whilst the bike is hot. i went for a 30 mile ride, returned home, and it was hard to start. it cranks fine, all lights/ are working, but wont start.... i wait 30 minutes it started fine., today i started her up, ( she will start with less than 1 second while cranking.) i rode for 30 minutes...at a stop light...dies....wont restart ( cranks/ lights working, just wont start)...i wait 30 minutes, starts right up, rode a 5 mile ride home, no issues. she doenst stutter, back fire, nothing out of ordinary, but now when the bike is hot, it will not start, and when i ride for 30 minutes, it just dies. i am not mechanically inclined in the least, so looking for help. the battery and voltage reg are good, ( both less than a year old, and charging fine) the wires are accel and less than a year old. i pulled the plugs, also less than a year old, looked fine. Im thinking ( from searching the web, it may be a bad coil? or ignition circuit breaker, or could it be the cam position sensor? if its any of the above, can you let me know if sportster parts would be the same to replace ( or if buell parts are available) and a simple instructions for testing ...again i am not mechanically inclined so give me layman terms, thanks in advance for your help. |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 06:00 pm: |
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also, i checked battery and ground connections, all tight/ clean. i have used bp premium gas always, so i dont believe its either of those issues. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 06:06 pm: |
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Sure sounds like an electrical issue triggered by an expanding component. I think you're on the right track. Start with the easy stuff. Relays first. Then the coil. |
Lynrd
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 06:38 pm: |
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I had that scenario on a bike. In my case the seat pan was shorting out the primary circuit - with circuit breakers you get that crazy won't go/will go behavior. Look for a short to ground in the primary circuit. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 06:47 pm: |
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Not to lead you down a wrong path but when I got my S2, it would die after five or ten minutes. Turned out that when the bike gets wet, a little bit of water would pool on the gas cap area. Drained the float bowl with the petcock on reserve (to get the bottom of the tank), and I got a cup of water in two litres of fuel drained. (Message edited by Sportyeric on July 13, 2014) |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 07:02 pm: |
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no water / rain on bike, its def heat related....as far as the circuit breakers, i believe the ignition breaker is 15 amp ( would the symptoms be only hard to start while hot, no other electrical gremlins, lights idiot lights all on) is this something i can get at auto zone? if so what would i order? or get it from h.d. ? |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 07:03 pm: |
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and how do i look for a short in ground to circuit breaker? |
S1owner
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:25 pm: |
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Two things to check before you dig into everything trust me on this I had the same issue and did not believe anyone and they were right. Side stand switch and the starter and ignition relay |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:32 pm: |
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dont think my s2 has a side stand switch,, but when u say starter and ignition relay, do you mean the circuit breakers, or is that something else..and if so, where is it located at? thx |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:42 pm: |
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There is no sidestand switch on an S2. Could be starter solenoid - does the starter crank at normal speed? Or...slow? If it's a slow crank or a HUGE hesitation...could be the solenoid just getting old. My S2 didn't start the other day (I've been neglecting her...) but the old hot-rodder trick of smacking the solenoid with a hammer un-stuck it and she fired right up. I used to run into the same issue on smallblock drag race cars with headers - the starter would get so heat-soaked it would simply quit. Cool it off...presto, fired right up again. |
Cyclonecharlie
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:45 pm: |
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It's probably is electrical, my guess is coil. But check your tank vent just in case. And what carb. is on the bike? |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:46 pm: |
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rat,it turns over fine, solid, its just when it gets hot i cannot restart,it cranks fine...just wont start when i just finish a ride...or it will die when i stopped at a light after riding a while, again turns over, quickly strongly, just wont start. |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:47 pm: |
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mikuni carb...i tried the trick of trying to start with cap off, and i blew in the vent, no obstructions. |
Malott442
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:50 pm: |
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Maybe a clogged/pinched fuel tank vent? Otherwise, maybe a coil issue? Check the resistance hot. |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:51 pm: |
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i found a coil, on ebay, part 31614-83a, which i will buy, as for the circuit breakers, 15amp for the ignition, is that something i can buy at auto zone? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:51 pm: |
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Coil could be overheating...no idea on a Mik, I've never had a reason to replace a CV. |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:53 pm: |
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i have an ohm meter, but not sure how to test coil hot...can you give me a step by step, again, i have one, only used it to test battery / voltage reg prior..so in laymans terms, what to set the wheel on the ohm meeter, and where to put black/ red wire. |
Reducati
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 09:56 pm: |
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ill start with coil, and then move to circuit breakers if that doenst do the trick, and ill post up results thx. and if any one knows if i can get the circuit breakers at an auto parts store, let me know what i need to ask for. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 10:36 pm: |
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You should be able to swap in other tuber coils to test...if you have a good running bike with a "known good" coil, swap 'em. |
Cyclonecharlie
| Posted on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 12:13 pm: |
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Get a good sparkplug and put it in your pocket. Run the bike till it quites, pull out the plug(in pocket)and plug into plug wire and see if your getting a spark. Not high tech, but effective. |
Malott442
| Posted on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 03:15 pm: |
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.5-.7 ohms primary (B+ and ground) 5500-7500 ohms secondary (B+ and plug lead) Correct me if I'm wrong. These measurements are taken with the bike OFF. Do not test running! Risk of shock to you and the meter. I would open the gas tank lid when it quit running, to see if you're pulling vacuum. Usually there are other symptoms leading to this. But it happens quite a bit this time of year, with critters using the hoses for larva storage. Another thing could be a relay coil gone bad. When bike quits running, verify it is getting voltage to the coil with the key turned on. |
Bluebueller
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 12:26 am: |
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This is simple but a huge Homer simpson "DOH!!" if it's the cause - make sure the vent hose is not pinched anywhere - if you had the tank off recently and you did not route the hose correctly, the vent hose could cause a vacuum in the tank, and said symptom's could occur.... |
Mebuellx1
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:18 am: |
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Was there any work done recently before this started happening? The exact same thing happened to me and it was due to cam position sensor heating up, it was on an x1 though. The trigger rotor was rubbing on cam sensor and it would heat up and cut out for a while until it cooled down. It happened after removing trigger rotor from shaft, slightest bend in rotor cup will rub sensor. |
Reducati
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:52 am: |
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i replaced the ooil, ( looks like it was the original,by the date stamp). took a 30 minute slow ride.....stopped, .....restarted right up..looks like it was the coil |
Hootowl
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 09:03 am: |
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