| Author | Message | ||
     Cabrainerd |
Hey guys, new to the forum with a (new to me) 06' uly. So I've had the bike a little over a month and have put 3k miles on it (27k total now) Since i've had it there's been an intermittent problem with the tach going crazy but it usually goes away after a little bit of riding(usually at freeway speed w/i the first 30 min of riding), and occasionally the V light would flash briefly when charging up a hill until I let off the throttle, then it would disappear. I just assumed because I was fully laden and it was 90+ degrees I was running a bit hot so I would back off.. So this week I'm on a 550 mile trip which I've made a few time the past few weeks commuting between Chico and San Diego CA, and on my latest trip I got 140 miles before the bike crapped out; V light came on, bike ran like crap, and soon after died. Upon trying to restart the starter would click like the battery was dead, so I automatically assumed the stator or regulator took a dump. Right before the tow showed up I decided to fiddle w/ the ground knowing it to be a problem child for this bike, and after barely touching it sure enough it fired right up.. I then babied it to a family members house close by (it still was acting up, the tach issue was now a constant occurrence, and it would die occasionally when I let off the throttle to stop for lights). That evening I checked the codes (code 16), but the battery was @ 12.87 volts. I went through the whole grounding system cleaning everything/ coating in dielectric grease, cleaned and re-seated the ECM connectors, and tried once again. The bike started easier and sounded like it was running healthier than ever so I test rode it. I couldn't get the tach to act up and it seemed to run ok... so I gave it the beans and wham, V light and skip spark.. rolled off the throttle and it went away. Crap, so I go back and check codes (no new codes), and I proceed to check output voltage (~14.4 volts) .. sounds right to me.. long story long to see if you guys agree with my reasoning: Cleaning the ground helped and was probably the cause of being stranded on the side of the road throwing a false hi/(lo) voltage code. My tach issue however and the gremlin causing my V light to come on under load (but not leave codes) is probably the ECM. I knew about the rubbing issue w/ the low seat,(I have a Corbin) but I assumed damage would manifest itself in some catastrophic wear I would notice. Being fed up I investigated further and noticed that my ECM looked (mostly clean) but there was wear on the seat pan, and light scuff marks on the 2 connectors, and no block like others I've seen have to protect it. I did the quick and dirty ECM relocation, and covered the ECM with fiberglass heat tape to protect it from heat, then rode home about 120 miles. Not a hiccup, or peep from the finicky tach. Anyone have similar problems? Does my evaluation sound correct? And my biggest question: If it was the ECM, and the pressure on the connectors was causing my problems, does that means the solder on the board connectors is cracked? Or is this usually a (cable) connection cracking problem? Anyone ever get the ECM/ seat problem, relocate it, and continue to use the ECM with any reliability, or is it just going to get worse even with no stress on the cables? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Probably cracked ECM connectors. I'd dig out the potting around them and resolder the joints, so it doesn't strand you somewhere at a bad time. Once you get the seat pressure off the connector and resolder, it will probably last forever. | ||
| Cabrainerd |
How hard is that stuff to dig out? I've dug out boards before where its the consistency or Elmers glue and cardboard, and some were hard as a rock.. is heat or chemicals needed? If I decide to get a donor ECM, are all XB12's ecm's compatible? I planned on flashing a race ECM w/ ECM spy on this or a new one (I have a drummer and K&N so i'm a little lean right now).. I saw a few on ebay from the 2001-2005 era, anyone know if those are compatible/ programmable w/ my 06'? | ||
| Cabrainerd |
Also, another question. Is there any visual indicator that the joint has cracked? (like anyone that has had this happen, does the epoxy around the connection on the ECM unit crack? Or can it be completely not obvious and internal only. I ask not only because I'm curious about the severity of mine (epoxy around the connections are w/o any separation), but also because I'm curious about how many failed ECM's probably end up on ebay without any indication. I'd hate to buy a replacement that is faulty as well further messing with my troubleshooting. The BWB thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/726411.html?1334338510 would be so helpful if his pictures where still available.. =/ (Message edited by CABrainerd on July 24, 2014) | ||
| Uly_man |
"If it was the ECM, and the pressure on the connectors was causing my problems, does that means the solder on the board connectors is cracked?". Yes you can cut it open and re-solder them. Best not to assume anything on this bike and check over ALL PARTS of the bike if you have just got it. Saves a lot of time, pain and money. | ||
| Cabrainerd |
If I re-solder, where does it crack? Can I peel back the bottom of the board and re-solder the the back side where the pins exit the board, or does the lead from the plastic connection fitting which enters the PCB on top crack to where I would have to de-pot the whole board. (Or), have you seen the solder and/or metal finger to the board both break.. | ||
| Uly_man |
The "pins to PCB" crack at the solder joints, due to leverage on the connector blocks, as the connector blocks are not fully supported to the ECM casing IE A bad design nor is the PCB fully potted. You can find out how to do it on this site. |
