| Author | Message | ||
     Court |
Bomber: That opinion appears universal. Court | ||
| Golin |
Hmm, thanks for the input on Race Tech. I guess I will try Traxxion Dynamics first. Al, So would they use a heftier spring for someone that exceeds their 210 pounds w/o gear? Also what are the differences in 8100, 8600, ane 8700? edited by golin on June 10, 2004 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Traxxion also did right by me also for my M2. I'd use them again anytime. Regarding a fork rebuild, don't forget to replace the inner fork bushings. Even if you only have 10K miles or so on the bike they have noticible wear. Replacing both of them is less than $10 per leg. Eliminating fork slider slop makes seals last longer too! YMMV! Brad | ||
| Djkaplan |
Stupid question, but I really don't know. Does the term "rebound and compression dampening" refer to the shock motion or the suspension action when it comes to Buells? When I'm adjusting the compression dampening at the shock, does it control the compression of the suspension or the compression at the shock? I'm confused because the typical shock action is reversed on a tube frame Buell. | ||
| Henrik |
I'll give you my version - which is not likely to be the absolutely correct description ... When you adjust rebound and compression on the shock, it affects how the shock moves, which in turn affects how the parts attached to the shock moves. So, when you increase rebound damping on the shock, the shock will take longer to return after having been compressed, which will off course make the rear wheel/swingarm return slower as well. On a tuber, that'll be when the shock shortens and the spring becomes less compressed. So rebound is when the rear of the bike rises, say after hard acceleration or coming out of a turn. It's also when the rear wheel returns to the ground after having been kicked up by a bump. If you increase compression damping, it will slow down compressing motion in the shock and therefore upwards motion of the rear wheel/swingarm. On a tuber that's when the shock lengthens and the spring is being compressed. Compression damping, among other things helps keep the rear from squatting during acceleration. On the tubers the rebound is adjusted on the reservoir. R & R .. get it  Hope that helps. Henrik edited by Henrik on June 16, 2004 | ||
| Djkaplan |
Henrik, Reread what you wrote - you gave two different explanations for term "rebound damping". Anyone? edited by djkaplan on June 16, 2004 | ||
| Henrik |
Alright ... so *one* little typo, work with me here  Try reading again - I think it makes a bit more sense now. Henrik | ||
| Djkaplan |
Thanks - that's the way I thought it was. I guess I was thinking too hard about it. Buells - different in every sense..., indeed! | ||
| Smadd |
An old, forgotten gremlin came back to haunt me this past weekend! While riding with a passenger, I heard a sound and felt a vibration that I hadn't experienced since 1998 or '99. The "GAAARUNCH... GAARUNCH" I heard and felt as the bike traversed the slightest dips in the road told me what I would find upon inspection... torn isolator! My bike never had the "latest and greatest" isolator upgrade. The original replacements carried me quite nicely until now (with 50,000 miles... not complaining!!!). I knew I'd find... oh... about 10,000 hits upon an "isolator" search of Badweb... which I did. And I printed out two service bulletins. I'm looking for shortcuts... and "should I do it myself.. or not" advice and recommendations. I saw one message that said not to follow the service manual instructions, but a "go here" link for clearer (easier?) instructions. Well... the "go here" link is quite dated... it's no longer there. Instructions, part numbers, links, etc. will be appreciated! Thanx! Steve edited by smadd on June 28, 2004 | ||
| Al_lighton |
Steve, You want to read the ATC techtips on the subject... http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/archive.php I try to keep the front and rear isolators (with bolts, newest style) in stock. Al | ||
| Smadd |
Wow, Al!! Quite an article on the isolator problems! Very good... and it was good to see there are some shortcuts (after I got over the initial shock of reading "So now it takes a trained Buell mechanic 6 hours to change the same isolator." First of all, I think one thing I need to determine is whether or not Buell will replace them for me at their cost. As I said, I had isolators replaced under warranty... but that was 1998... that was before "improved" isolators were available. I often ride double... good thing our combined weight isn't much over 275! I think that's one thing that has enabled my isolators to last as long as they did. Thanks again... I may be talking to you soon. Steve | ||
| Whodom |
I've just acquired a 2000 S3 and Dave's determined the shock recall was never performed on my bike (early style Showa shock). I've read everything I can find at BadWeb about the recalls, so I hope I haven't missed an obvious answer to this question (if so I apologize in advance). If I carry my bike to my local HD/Buell dealer, will they install the reinforcement kit for free, an updated Showa shock kit for $100, or am I on my own at this point? The shock does not appear to be leaking or otherwise faulty. TIA, Hugh | ||
| Al_lighton |
I've done a swingarm/isolator swap a couple times, and it really isn't that bad a job if you have the crowsfoot wrench and the homemade isolator compression tools. The biggest pain is getting the thread on the swingarm bearing preload "nuts" EXACTLY lined up with the isolator bolts. It is way too easy to cross thread them if you're not careful. Al | ||
| Ara |
Whodom, I've got a 1997 S3 and I'm still running with the original exposed-spring rear shock. It still works fine and has never even hinted that it might leak. My advice would be to not fix what isn't broken. Russ | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Does anyone know if a Penske shock will fit my 96' S1? I have a chance to maby trade for it and would like some imput. Thanks, Johnny Vimdigni  | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Does anyone know if a Penske shock will fit my 96' S1? I have a chance to maby trade for it and would like some imput. Thanks, Johnny Vimdigni  | ||
| Mower_jockey |
I hope someone can answer this question. While riding with a passenger on my 99 S3, the muffler drags on left hand turns. It has happened at different times once with my 8 year old son on back, and then the other day with my wife on back. It never has done this with just me on board. I have upgraded the isolators, and since then it appears to be worse. I cannot even turn out the compression dampening 2.5 out from full in, unless I am doing something wrong which is entirely possible. Thanks Matt | ||
| Josh_ |
What is the rear preload set to? | ||
| Mower_jockey |
Josh, I took a measurement and it fell within the parameters. However I was balanced on the bike( with son on back) with the kickstand resting on a 2 x 4. My wife did the measuring, she would not be able to help balance bike with just myself on it. Did this make a difference? Kind of funny with the four of us(2 sons)in the garage doing this. Matt | ||
| Josh_ |
which shock is on there? what was the measurement? unless there is something wrong with the shock, with the correct measurements (and load) I can't imagine the muffler hitting. Uhm do you have a V&H? Is the Z bracket installed as well as the V&H bracket? | ||
| Mower_jockey |
Ok time for me to sound stupid. It is a V&H. From shock eye to shock eye it is 16.5. Now for me sounding stupid, what is the Z bracket? The tail of the muffler is what drags. | ||
| Josh_ |
yup, look at the pic in your profile, see how the V&H points down? You bolted the V&N to the existing muffler bracket (which is in the shape of a "Z" ). you need to bolt the V&H *in place* of the existing Z. this will bring the end of the V&H up about 2.5" and clear the ground. This was the most common issue with the tube framers back in the day (well, ok other than FI issues and rocker box leaks and poor dealers and...) | ||
| Mower_jockey |
Well that explains it. I bought the bike with the pipe on it. Do you know if I can still get this bracket, and where I could see a picture of said bracket? Thank you for your help. Matt | ||
| Mower_jockey |
Calling V&H in the morning to get correct bracket. Thanks | ||
| Josh_ |
It's already there (as far as I know) just remove the Z bracket and bolt the muffler bracket directly to the engine using one of the "Z" bracket's mounts (the "Z" mounts in 2 places, the V&H will only fit one). Maybe someone with a V&H (I've used Buell Race cans, WestTek and Stainless Specialties but no V&H) can chime in here with a better description. You might also run a search for "Z" and "V&H" on here. | ||
| Mower_jockey |
Well I am now headed over to Exhaust, and hope to post pictures because the bracket on my can is parallel with the can. Upon close inspection I am now getting a crack in the Z bracket. Thanks Matt | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Hi folks, This is a bit of a vague question, but how would you rate the handling of X1's and/or tubers in general? In particular, handling on bumpy roads? Subjective comparisons to other bikes welcome... cheers, lemonchili | ||
| Tripper |
Get the setup right and they can't be beat. I have racetech fork springs and custom valving in the front and it is plush and controlled through viscous bumps. I have the short Showa shock in the rear and it can spank your ••• pretty hard, but I can't fault the handling. Wish I could afford a Penske. | ||
| Steveford |
They don't handle the bumps nearly as well as the XB Buells. I assume it's due to the weight of the wheels on your X1W. The XB wheels/axles are really impressive. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Thanks guys  Went for another long ride today and I think I'm starting to get my head around the suspension setup. Backing off the preload/increasing the rear sag has helped the most. Today I played around with damping some more - overall ended up with increasing the rebound and decreasing the compression at both ends, but only by small amounts - result is that the bike is definitely firmer, maybe a touch on the hard side, but not as "flighty" or "twitchy", so I'm happier I realised that the instability is worst over a series of bumps when over 90mph, but it is better now, maybe one day I'll fit a steering damper, more for piece of mind than anything. One of the guys today suggested maybe it's to do with the aerodynamics of only a small fairing and an upright riding position... Any thoughts? Steve - I'd agree on the wheels except that the wheels and brakes on my old GSXR, for example, would have been even heavier than the X1... i think... cheers, lemonchili PS Still loving the X1! It's such a cool bike}  |
