Author |
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Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 06:51 pm: |
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any common failure points for turn signals on a 96 S1? mine don't work at all. have done the following... checked other actions on the left control switch..horn works, flash to pass works, high/low beam works. all turn signals plugged in, swapped the relay with one from another buell S1, still didn't change anything. tail light works, brake light works. head light works.. all electrics work except the turn signals... I don't even hear the relay energize.. oh and yes checked all fuses in the small fuse block on the right side... any weak points in a 96 wiring that could be the culprit?
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Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 07:01 pm: |
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Does the S1 use a controller like the S2? |
Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 08:37 pm: |
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no controller like the S2. as an additional troubleshooting point the instrument light "cluster" does not illuminate when the turn signals are turned on. if the circuit was good but the turn signals were inop the dash panel indicator would stay solid right? so the whole circuit seems to be inop... or??
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Brentx1
| Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 08:41 pm: |
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Sounds like a bad ground somewhere. |
Jolly
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2014 - 08:53 pm: |
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Fixed the problem, found a bad hot wire feeding the relay. Actually found it accidentally by moving things around, though wouldn't have accidentally found it if hadn't spent 30 minutes on the phone with Vince and a wiring diagram chasing ground and 12 volt sources. At first it looked like it might be a bad relay with an internal fault, but it was only associated with one pin on the relay, then I sorted out that it was actually the wire feeding the pin. Thanks for your time Vince!! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2014 - 09:39 pm: |
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Badweb strikes again |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2014 - 10:30 pm: |
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Wiggle-test. It's a twin. ALWAYS wiggle-test before you start cutting and replacing. |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2014 - 08:14 am: |
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Tried the wiggle test, even swapped relays.... It took a lot of side pressure to get the wire to make contact which is why I missed it in with the first basic steps of troubleshooting. The accidental part of finding the problem was I moved the relay into a different orientation to have access to the tabs to check voltage and continuity. In the new orientation the signals worked! Moved it back to proper mounting.... Signals don't work.... About three iterations of that and I figured out that one of the protective wire tab boots was getting pressure applied to it in just a certain way.... Found the bad wire! |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2014 - 07:41 pm: |
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thought I had fixed this, turned out there were two problems... the female spade was a little wide...(this starts to sound real bad if I keep going... ) after pinching that closed in the rubber..boot...it worked for a bit, turns out I had another problem in the same wire..and it quit working again.. the female spade was actually broken as well..and under vibration it would separate in the boot. Had to cut it off behind the boot and splice in a new wire.... all is well with the turn signals. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2014 - 08:19 pm: |
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One trick I've learned for roadside "get-me-home" repairs - twist the spade connectors just a bit. Not so much that you have to force the relay back in the socket...but enough to make contact, even if its only on one side of each spade. If I have to twist one...I twist all three, it really "wedges" the relay into the socket. Usually that "get-me-home" repair...lasts for a few thousand miles |
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