| Author | Message | ||
     General_ulysses |
I need to replace the rear rubber isolator/mount on my '97 S1. Looks pretty involved getting to it and I don't have a manual yet. Any lessons learned/shortcuts/advisements before tearing into it? Another problem is holding the bike up. I have a 2 ton engine hoist I was thinking of using to suspend the bike from with straps. Sound reasonable? The underside has a lot of lumps with the shock and muffler, making it difficult to set it up on a block or something similar. | ||
| Jim2 |
If your S1 has passenger pegs you can flip them upside down and set them on jack stands. That requires the front wheel be placed in a stable wheel chock and strapped. That is how I work on my M2. I place a floor jack under the rear shock eye/mount in order to raise it to put on the jack stands. Of course there is no reason why you can't use your hoist just don't put the strap under the muffler or anything that will break like that. Use the frame members under the seat. You may have to take the plastic off the tail to avoid damaging it. Get a manual first. I use the Daniel C. Starr "Scott Free method" of rear isolator replacement. Google it or look it up on Badweb or both. I have some pictures in one of the post here somewhere. There is also a new spiffy iso replacement compression tool but it's a bit spendy but looks nice. You can get from American Sport Bike i believe. I support American Sport Bike , Al will help you do things right and you can get a manual from him too. | ||
| S1owner |
First the manual can be downloaded from the knowledge vault here. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1996-1997_Service/intro.pdf This is what i did and it works easily Remove the seat and rear plastics use some kind of hoist or ratchet strap to lift the back of the bike to start just keep it snug remove the bolts that hold the iso in Know lift the frame up with the lift once it is up pish down on the rear wheel they will seperate. To reinstall insert the iso put a little lube where the frame will contact lower frame you may need a thin putty knife to get the started once they are you can simple push down on the frame and it will slide in place. Others have their way and nothings wrong with them this is what works for me (Message edited by S1owner on April 02, 2014) | ||
| Jim2 |
Does the S2 have pins that fit into the iso's so they can't rotate during tightening? I would think that the pins prevent you from just pushing the frame down over the iso? Isn't there a center motor mount that would need to be undone before you push down on engine/swingarm combo? Isn't there a front motor mount to worry about too? Seems to me you might rip the front motor mount while replacing the rear and maybe damage the center mount/tie bar. I'm not familiar with S1 though so I apologize if I'm out of line. | ||
| S1owner |
You are partally correct the pins go into the frame so you would put the iso in the frame and slode it over the mount block . Yes the rear tie bar needs to be loosened. You are not moving thecframe very far so no need to worry about the front. The new tool Al sells would be easier and quicker it was not available for me Any way you choose to do it it is not very hard | ||
| General_ulysses |
Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions. S1owner I went to the link for the manual, but all it is is an intro. How do I go from there to the content of the manual? And where is the gateway menu to all the manuals? I couldn't find it in the site directory. I put my bike up on my engine hoist and have it suspended now. I'm gonna give what you suggest a try, it sounds easier than the "Scott Free method", although that sounds like it might be a good way too. Will report back once I get things going. Thanks again to everyone, gettin' psyched to get this thing rockin' on the road! | ||
| S1owner |
The intro to the manual you should be able to click on each section to bring it up if not I might be able to email it to you send me your email through a pm if you want. Also I have detailed tear down pics and assembly pics if you ever need them from my build. | ||
| S1owner |
Sean sent you three emails the manual pull up the folder then the intro page should be clickable to each section. Second is a 98 parts manual should be close to all the same parts. Third is pics of my rebuild. A great suggestion is getting ahold of Buellistic (LaFeyette) he has alot of 101 classes on paper he can send you makes life easier with his knowledge he is also very willing to talk on the phone and help out. (Message edited by S1owner on April 02, 2014) | ||
| 1313 |
One thing worth noting is that if you are going to put the upgraded rear isolators in (which I would do on any tuber other than an S2, and which is what I'll be installing when I replace them on my S3T Defender) is that the original sprocket cover will not fit with the upgraded isolators. You'll either need to modify the sprocket cover (which might not work the greatest, not sure), or you'll need the updated sprocket cover (which provides clearance for the upgraded isolators new bits). I can round up some pics to show the different styles of sprocket covers if needed, 1313 | ||
| General_ulysses |
According the American Sportbike website that sells the isolators, it says: "These are the new style isolators that may require some slight clearancing of your stock plastic or CF front pulley cover. These will NOT fit S2 models." So I guess I have to use a razor or something to cut a little slot into the plastic cover? Also, do you guys think I should replace the belt while I'm in there? It only has 6000 miles, although I guess the belt's 17 years old...unless he replaced it along the way? | ||
| Hootowl |
When you see the new isolators, you'll understand where you need to trim. Not a big deal. | ||
| Jim2 |
Just do a condition check on the belt and it it looks good I'd keep it. The service manual shows you what to look for on the belt. If money is not an object now would be a good time to replace the belt but 6000 miles is not very many miles on the existing belt. I modified my cover to fit the new style isolators using a jigsaw and some sand paper. | ||
| Austexs3 |
I used the "Scott Free" method and it worked fantastic. Replaced the belt and the isolators on my S3. I did make a couple of modifications to the tool, but it worked great. | ||
| General_ulysses |
Well I have it all down to the point where I'm ready to pull the isolators out. However, I couldn't get them to drop out without the Scott Free Method tool. I think a porta-power would work ok too. The rubber biscuits are pretty hard rubber and stuck in there good. I'll be making the tool this evening and hope to have them out tonight or tomorrow. Parts are scheduled to arrive on Monday, so hopefully have 'er zipped up by Tuesday. Will post pics later. Thanks S1owner for the manual too, you rock man! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Heat gun might help with stale biscuits...  | ||
| S1owner |
Your welcome |
