| Author | Message | ||
     Kennywiz |
OK. So I got the D&D off but what mounts on this tab when the OEM goes back on? I didn't find the valve actuator cable, so I guess the HD dealer cut or removed it. I've read of many riders using the OEM without the cable. Do I need to wire the valve on the exhaust a certain way open? If so, which way? Three clamps hold the OEM on correct? Having trouble finding OEM pics. Thanks | ||
| Kennywiz |
(Message edited by kennywiz on April 06, 2014) | ||
| Kennywiz |
NEVERMIND!!!!! I figured it out. OEM front clamp rest. D'OH! Sorry for making a new thread and being stupid. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Well I'd still like to know about the valve. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Ok got the OEM mounted and cinched back down. No cable attached. Let it warm up and got an amber check engine light. Hoping the EBR ECM fixes that. Should be here Monday. Still would like to know what to do about the valve in the muller itself. Asked EBR during the week but never got a reply to that. | ||
| Britchri10 |
Best I understand is that the EBR ECM does not flash the yellow check engine light if the actuator is not connected. It may be that you need to turn something off electronically in the ECM for it not to light. I am sure other, more knowledgeable people will speak up about this. Chris C | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'd go buy a cable and hook it up properly. They put the valve in the exhaust for a (noticeable) reason. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Not to swim upstream here, but on my 07, I opened the valve against the spring, coworker tacked a nut in place to hold it open. The way bike runs for me, I'm ok with it for now. I don't have flat spots anywhere, no deceleration popping, smooth power delivery. All I want. Goal was if anything could give me trouble out it went. Turned off valve in ecm spy so no coding there. Going to start data logging soon as my next project , then issues might arise. If needed, then reinstall cable, cut nut off and valve works again. 2 cents worth. | ||
| Callawegian |
I rode for about 6 months with fishing sinkers clamp to the cable to keep the valve open. In the next off-season I open the the top of the muffler with a small cut-off wheel and removed the valve. I am happy with the results the only difference I have noticed is the slight increase in volume at idle. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Took the airbox cover off and the actuator and cable are still up there. IF the HD shop properly disconnected and ties the cable up, where would it be? What is the OEM path for that cable? Downloaded an XB manual but cannot find the path. (Message edited by kennywiz on April 06, 2014) (Message edited by kennywiz on April 06, 2014) | ||
| Ratbuell |
It should travel down towards the front belt pulley, past the 77 connector area (might as well replace that while you're poking around anyway...DAMHIK), then forward to the muffler. The yellow circle is the bottom end of the cable, it has a metal elbow on it and a locknut to attach it to the muffler. You can see the yellow line; I had the cable pulled out of the way while I worked on the 77 connector but it tucks into the bundle in front of the pulley.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
And, the red circle is the 77 connector. Here's what I bought:  And here's my fix:  I slid the heat shrink up over the brass once I took the photo. 20k+ miles, still going strong. Since you'll be in there anyway, I strongly recommend it - and a voltmeter, such as the Kuryakyn meter I use on all my bikes. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thanks! Done and done! The HD shop actually zip tied it up nicely. I was surprised once I located it. Dropped the can again, and connected everything up. Verified operation. Victory! The EBR ECM arrives tomorrow. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Did the yellow light stop coming on? | ||
| Kennywiz |
yup! thanks! EBR ECM in as well. | ||
| Teeps |
Not a fan of those set screw splices, especially considering the vibration those wires are subjected to... Shrink tubing will help, but a "proper" automotive crimp connection (not soldered) would by my choice. But, hey! What do I know? |
