| Author |
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Missourian
| | Posted on Friday, November 08, 2013 - 10:35 pm: | 
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Okay thanks again for the help. I ordered that exact model, should be here sometime next week.
Also, there was a used blast ignition on Ebay for only $75. I ordered it as a precaution. It's a $75 bet. If I end up needing a ignition module, and it works (it supposedly does) It'll be worth it.
It might be a few more days before I have anything else to report/ask. So if you guys wouldn't mind checking back middle of next week, I would really really appreciate it! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 - 01:38 am: |
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Don't use the coin, or if you do adjust by lifting up, putting no pressure on the center electrode - any pressure could break it.
the ceramic that covers the center electrode is held in place by the screw on solenoid top - open package standing on counter, remove plug, unscrew solenoid top, ad red locktite to only that part of the solenoid screw in contact with the ceramic, screw top back on, and let dry standing 24 hrs, carefully check that gap is set to 0.025" - their recommended setting for that plug, don't forget a dab of di-electric grease on both sides of the wire as well.
EZ |
Missourian
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2013 - 05:31 pm: |
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thank you for the information EZ! I think to trouble hoot my current problems, I am going to try to get her running using the old spark plug, and then I'll try the new one again, using the methods you described.
So Gearheaderiko,my test light (the one you specified has arrived, as did my new (used) ignition module. I believe I connected the correct wires (yellow/green) leading to the BAS, but I could do the test procedure to be sure.
Question, What do I do with the third wire leading to the BAS? Leave it connected and the plug plugged into the BAS sensor, or cut it and tape it up?
Also, if it is determined not to be the BAS where should I start next?
Thank you guys so much! Trying to get this thing running, or else I'm going to have to sell her as-is 
Bonus question: while playing around with the electrical system, I believe I may have accidentally disconnected a wire that goes to one of the battery terminals. The terminal shown is the positive end, with an additional wire attached with a fuse. The other unattached wire is the wire in question. It's red, and it runs parallel to the wire connected to the positive terminal, down from under the gas tank/ tank cover.
What is this wire suppose to be attached to?
Your help is very much appreciated! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2013 - 06:47 pm: |
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Okay, that wire isnt stock. I dont know where it goes. That may be your problem as it might be there to solve another problem you didnt know you have. Try and follow it to its destination. My guess is it doesnt look like any other wire on the bike.
Is the fused connection for a Battery Tender or heated gear?
The clip of the test light goes to ground, the pointy end touches the wire contacts (its pointy so you can actually go through wire insulation if necessary) and the light lights up if there is power. test it on the battery to be sure its connected. Clip goes to ground, pointy end to positive (or vice versa in other situations).
The way to test the BAS is to turn the bike on (ignition on). See which wires have power. Then unbolt the BAS and turn it upside down and see which wire loses power. If there isnt any change or only one wire ever has power, then its faulty. Its been a really long time since I tested one so I cant remember which wire is which, but the test I described will tell you if its working and which wires get power. That will also tell you enough to bypass it if necessary (if its working properly). I dont have the time to read through the schematic, sorry.
IMPORTANT: WHEN USING A TEST LIGHT, REMEMBER THAT WHEN THE POINTY END IS TOUCHING A LIVE WIRE, THE WHOLE METAL TEST LIGHT TIP IS LIVE. IF YOU TOUCH (GROUND) THIS TO ANY METAL YOU WILL BLOW A FUSE OR FRY COMPONENTS. BE VERY CAREFUL AS THE BAS IS NEAR THE FRAME. ITS EXTREMELY COMMON FOR THE NOVICE TO BLOW A FUSE THE FIRST TIME THEY USE A TEST LIGHT!!! |
Missourian
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2013 - 10:27 pm: |
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Okay, I'll try to figure out what the wires go to. So are neither of these additional wires stock? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 06:03 pm: |
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Correct, they are not stock. That does add the wild card of not having a stock Blast which means you might have a problem unique to your Blast. (Such as something being rewired in a non stock fashion that has now become faulty). That's a might, not a certainty. |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 02:12 pm: |
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An update! I installed the new ignition module, the red led flashes, but the bike still won't start. It still cranks, and I even unplugged the spark plug wire and taped it to the engine- it makes a tiny spark in conjunction with the bike cranking. Fuel supply was good as of a few weeks ago when this problem started, removed spark plug, it was wet, and looks like shit.....advice? |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 02:13 pm: |
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Also, red mystery wires were for an aftermarket horn, a nautilus by sebal horn I think |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 02:29 pm: |
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Also, I removed the spark plug and there is definitely compression |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 02:52 pm: |
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How old the fuel? How is your float level? - I really question the quality of spark if plug is wet. I would test coil, and pick up a new wire - they are cheap and better at autozone - lol - perfect fit and a better wire. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Gener al-Cable-15-in-ignition-coil-wire-typical-of-Ford- without-EEC/_/N-26ct?itemIdentifier=6126_0_0_
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 03:05 pm: |
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Is the spark blue or yellow ? |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 03:15 pm: |
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How would I test the coil? I'm going to pick up a new wire from auto zone tonight along with some red locktite and follow your instructions.
Any guidance for how tight the plug needs to be? Would it not start if I don't have the plug exactly right? I have a torque wrench, but I'm not sure how to tighten the spark plug to the exact specs. Do I need a "Crows foot"?
Also, when I mentioned taping the spark plug wire to the engine and seeing a spark, when I tried this with the spark plug attached, I didn't see anything. Does this mean anything?
Finally, I'm not sure about the float levels . I dont know much about carbs.
Ahh I'm such a novice. thank you for your help.! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 09:01 pm: |
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Hit BADWEB search function select thumper section - type in coil test, then type in 99999999999999999...and select days for the search time period. you will find the procedure I listed - do you have a manual - it's in there as well. pgs 7-23,7-24 of the manual. They are free on the net.
EZ |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 09:11 pm: |
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Okay I will be trying that next. I got the new spark plug wire. I attached it to the wire, the tested with it grounded to the engine...tiny, tiny blue spark. I will test the coil next but it may be a few days |
Missourian
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 09:39 pm: |
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I'me trying to search using your instructions, and, but I still cant seem to find them.
I do have the manual, but I don't have the ohometer the tests require. Is there a way to do it without one? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 03:09 am: |
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hmm - they are like 10 bucks at the Autozone or Harbor Freight - not really another way to test, but the test is simple if you have the meter.
EZ |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 03:10 am: |
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Have you tried it now with the plug cleaned and gap checked and new wire?
EZ |
Missourian
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 08:24 am: |
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Well, I checked the gap an it's pretty close to .025. Tried it with the new wire, and that is when I could see a TINY blue spark with the wire taped to the engine. Tried starting it, with no luck. I did not have the dole trip grease applied or the red loctite on the solenoid
I ordered a new coil, it costs less than a ohometer. When it arrives ill give it another try. By then i will have had time for the loctite to dry and will apply dielectric grease (on both ends?) as well.
Thanks again for your help. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 02:07 pm: |
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Buy starting fluid. This will negate any carb problems you have. If it starts with starting fluid, then it's a carb/fuel problem.
Loctiting or putting dielectric grease on plugs or wires will not solve a starting/running problem. It will alleviate or eliminate problems down the road.
Spark plug torque won't matter. It will start no matter how tight it is, but it will cause engine damage if too loose or too tight. Tank removal is usually necessary to torque plug to specs.
Sometimes an ohm meter will tell you nothing about the coil. That's just the way it is.
The Blast requires good compression. 75psi is compression, but the Blast will hard start with compression that low.
Blue spark is good, but it will usually only be as big as the gap it has to jump (there are exceptions-but not your worry). Small gap, small spark. However, without actually looking its tough to tell if its good enough.
Avoid the "replace everything" approach to repair, it can lead to major confusion as to what the problem actually is, it can be costly and it can create new problems.
Also avoid repairing anything that isn't broken. For instance, the timing is probably fine. It doesn't normally change by itself. Again, this will complicate things if you take the fix everything approach.
You still have steps to take without replacing more parts. You're new, remember that. You're still learning. This is going to be an education. You might have to buy tools. But the tools will probably be less than the hourly shop rate at most shops (and you'll probably still be better off fixing it yourself).
Lastly, your problem might be exceedingly simple in nature. We may not be asking the right questions, you may not be giving the correct or accurate information. I do know its frustrating, but we've all been there. You don't get the knowledge by getting it quick and right every time. The problems we pull our hair out on are the ones we usually learn the most from. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 02:09 pm: |
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Do you have a torque wrench? |
Missourian
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 05:47 pm: |
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Thank you for that very detailed response. I do have a torque wrench, I just need a spark plug socket I guess to get it exactly right....I did order a new coil because it was cheaper than an ohometer, but if necessary I can get one and test both coils.
Starting fluid=sea foam? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 - 06:32 pm: |
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No. Go to the auto parts start and look/ask for starting fluid (ether). It's in a spray can.
DO NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE ON STARTING FLUID. it's just an aid. Spray into carb or air box. If ignition is working it should start, but won't stay running. Avoid the temptation to spray into the carb to keep it running-this is very bad for the engine.
I fully understand about the coil. |
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