| Author | Message | ||
     Duanelr |
I purchased the "Front Brake Rotor Mounting Kit" from EBR. I see there is a spring missing that IS included with the stock hardware. When installing the EBR Brake Rotor Mounting Kit, should I use the spring that is already on the bike? The EBR exploded diagram, which details the installation, does not include the spring. Here is the spring in question:  or here  | ||
| Dhays1775 |
You got the EBR brake rotor upgrade, correct? If so, they don't use the springs. I think you got the stock replacement hardware, in which case you will need to measure the new springs and try to find one of the old ones that is closest to the same size. Make sure you clean all the gunk off the spring if you do reuse it. | ||
| Jdugger |
Do not use the springs. | ||
| Stirz007 |
If you haven't already mounted up, one thing you should do first - check the run-out on the mounting points. They should be within maybe 5-10 thousandths. Jim probably knows for sure. The factory hardware allows some 'float' in the rotor (that's what the springs are for). The better EBR hardware is rigid mount, so if the mounting points are not at the same height, you can get an induced 'wave' in the rotor. | ||
| Sprintst |
This is the upgrade kit  | ||
| Duanelr |
Thanks guys  Yes, I am going to install the EBR kit. And I will leave out the funny long springs that are already on the bike. Duane (Message edited by duanelr on April 04, 2014) | ||
| Jdugger |
1. Use only the hardware in the EBR kit. Discard all the previous brake hardware. 2. Inspect the bearing edge of the rotor, where the drive bushing from the hardware contacts. If it's sheared or worn, replace the rotor. You may find you can turn the rotor over and get a better load bearing edge, but don't get cheap on this point. 3. Jeff's point about the mount tabs is true. Some runs of these cast wheels suck in terms of tolerances and the EBR kit makes an expectation of a pretty true wheel. 4. The EBR rotor does have some float -- that's what the disc springs to. But, it's a whole lot less than the OEM 1125r design. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If all else fails...read the instructions. This is what shipped with my kit when I bought it:  | ||
| Pmjolly |
Oh hell.... I am going to mount mine today or tomorrow. That says concave end towards bolt head. I would have turned it wrong. When I see a conical washer, I assume it is for locking purposes with the convex side towards the bolt head so it crushes. Why make it conical and turn it concave towards bolt head? You could just use a flat washer. What am I missing? | ||
| Jdugger |
The belleville washer is the float in this design. If you measure all the parts you will see there's just a tiny bit of tolerance between the height of the stack and the height of the top hat | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep, the conical washer isn't a lock...it's the "spring". |
