Author |
Message |
Mhlunsford
| Posted on Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 10:31 pm: |
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Broken bolt shown is sheared inside
Many successful at getting the broken part out ? |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 11:05 pm: |
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Been there done that 2 or 3x. Support the motor with a floor jack. Take off the forward motor mount nut under the gas tank right behind the neck and the remaining bolt that goes into the head. with the motor mount out of the way the sheared bolt is in plain view. One time I used a punch and hammer, tapping it out. The next time my buddy had a reverse drill bit and without any preparation he just held the bit down firmly and powered it out. Grade 8 bolts are not enough, there is a grade higher grade 9. Use plenty of anti-seize on reassembly. |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 02:22 pm: |
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American Sport Bike sells an extractor kit for this! There is a reverse drill bit and I think it comes with a guide for drilling. |
Mhlunsford
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 03:07 pm: |
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Thanks guys I need to order a few things from ABS might as we'll add the extractor too. |
Mhlunsford
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 03:08 pm: |
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What about grade 12 bolts here ? |
Modified4speed
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 03:14 pm: |
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good luck their tedious but can be removed... |
Lakes
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 03:23 pm: |
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I done what DannyB said but i sprayed broken bolt with WD40 let it stand then put vice grips on the broken bolt worked it back & forth it came out easy got new bolts from American Sport Bike & billet mount did a lot of hard riding since & no problem yet two years on |
Mhlunsford
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 06:09 pm: |
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The WD or liquid wrench are my favorites. what is the billet mount ? |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 07:09 pm: |
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American Sport Bike billet motor mount... http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/16031.html
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Mhlunsford
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 07:50 pm: |
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What effect does the billet motor mount have ? |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 09:25 pm: |
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its heavier duty, and the extra material keeps it from breaking. a lot of these issues are either a broken bolt or a broken mount. with this mount and new grade 9 bolts properly installed you shouldn't have the problem you currently have ever again. I have two of these, one of my bikes has the stock one and the other bike has a billet copy of the stock style..so far no stress marks or cracks are developing in the billet style of the stock design...but eventually even that bike will get one of these.... I have not had the broken bolt or broken mount issue yet, so I've either been lucky r stayed ahead of the problem |
Lynrd
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 09:33 pm: |
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The billet as opposed to cast would be marginally stronger from a material standpoint, but more importantly, the extra webbing between the lower pivot points would eliminate the ability of the mount to vibrate like a tuning fork. I think that front mount is the bee knees. |
Rocket_in_uk
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 09:42 pm: |
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You don't need a billet expense. Use the later stock mount and the stock bolts. Rocket in England |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 09:57 pm: |
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Mark, I think I read this on American Sport Bike. The original front motor mount vibrates and sets up a resonance in the left mounting bolt. This causes it to shear. When that bolt shears, the motor mount will break on the right side in the thin section. I posted some pictures about a week ago in a thread titled front motor mount 2001 S3T or something similar. The extractor kit from Al @ American Sport Bike contains a hardened bit and a special extractor. The bit is not a reverse flute. I haven't tried to remove the broken bolt yet. Probably get to it this week. Barry Hollister, CA |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 11:03 pm: |
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oh....I just figured it out...good advice for the wrong problem...which doesn't really help does it!! I was thinking of the exhaust stud guide and bolt extractor....sorry...focused on my own issue of removing and replacing exhaust studs on the motor I am working on and transposed my what if it breaks while removing it problem into the problem you have...motor mount bolt broken not exhaust stud broken...even though the picture CLEARLY defines the problem...sorry...obsessed with my own project right now.... maybe I need a day off from work AND the garage..but I would drive the wife crazy with that much free time... all other information valid, just pay no attention to my ramblings of a stud remover kit and guide... |
Jim2
| Posted on Monday, December 09, 2013 - 12:21 am: |
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This thread details my experience extracting the broken mount bolt using the extractor from American Sport Bike http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=47623&page=686883 |
Mhlunsford
| Posted on Monday, December 09, 2013 - 10:56 pm: |
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Thanks for all the help It is cold here in the Bay Area 25f so maybe the time has come to take this m2 apart. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 12:02 pm: |
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One thing that most miss. The two bolt boss faying surfaces on the head MUST be perfectly flat and in the same plane. When you remove the old motor mount I'll bet you see the faying surface is "rockered" from top to bottom on the broken side. The other side will probably be as well but to a lesser extent. If you are good and methodical you may be able to take care of it with a file. The best practice is to pull the head and have it machined. Brad |
Modified4speed
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 02:05 pm: |
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Its almost safe to say if I am keeping the bike I need to collect a few heads and mounts and rotate being repaired vs ready to install for ease in the future... HAHAHA |
Kalali
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 06:11 pm: |
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Blum, what do you mean by "faying" surfaces? Not familiar with that term. Thanks. |
Kc_zombie
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 07:32 pm: |
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"The surface of an object which comes with another object to which it is fastened". Or in laymen's terms the two surfaces which mate together, i.e. the flat surface of the head and the flat surface of the front mount... |
Oldog
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 08:29 pm: |
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having done the bolt bit some points check the rear mounts (rubber) get the proper bolts from Al or a sponsor dealer, follow the directions to the letter I also recommend the billet mount, > 15K miles no issues also Blues is correct the mounting surfaces must be flat and true to each other else you do it over... I had little luck with the drill out trick, If Al has an extractor kit I would buy it, if the pad is chewed up you want to pull the head and send it to a shop, Cycle Rama [ a sponsor ] milled mine, no issues |
Oldog
| Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 08:34 pm: |
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Its almost safe to say if I am keeping the bike I need to collect a few heads and mounts and rotate being repaired vs ready to install Only if you do it wrong, this is a common problem, like rocker box gaskets, breaking exhausts and studs, oil pump gears Fuel pumps on FI bikes and the infamous grenade plate get in front of the maintenance and its not much of a problem. } |
89rs1200
| Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2020 - 12:54 pm: |
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Motor Mount Bolt Kit instructions from American Sport Bike;
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89rs1200
| Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2020 - 01:08 pm: |
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Motor_Mount_Bolt_Kit-Buell_Recall_B018.pdf |