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Rickpxb12scgr
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 09:09 am: |
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How can you do it WITHOUT rotating the engine? It is impossible to reach the lower two retaining screws on the Fuel Rail Housing with the Throttle Body in position. The damn Manuel isn't any help either. Anyone got some tricks with photos? Thanks. |
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Akbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 11:34 am: |
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Sec 4-14 of the service manual (pg4-28) talks about removing the entire intake manifold/throttle body assy. Once it is on the bench (pg 4-31 fuel injectors), the screws should be accessible. The manual indicates the assy can be removed without rotating the engine. Wouldn't hurt to have a set of new intake manifold gaskets on hand. Hope this helps, Dave |
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Rickpxb12scgr
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 08:18 pm: |
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Yup on the manual. RPIA doing so. The Primary side Exhaust Manifold bolts are a "B" to get loose as is the retaining T-Star Screw. In the process right now. Thanks Dave. (Message edited by RickPXB12SCGR on December 18, 2013) |
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Akbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 09:20 am: |
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Confused. Not an unusual situation in my case, or hard to do. Do you mean primary side 'Intake Manifold' bolts? If so, they only need to be loosened 1/4-1/2 turn or so. If anything like my tubers, they can be/are fiddly. Retaining T-Nut? Do you mean the fastener holding the manifold to the cyl brace? A heat gun may be your friend here. Dave |
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Rickpxb12scgr
| Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2013 - 10:06 am: |
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My bad on the "T-Nut". Should have read T 24-Star Retaining Screw that attaches the T-Body to the Coil Assy. I needed to order a special Long Handle Offset T-24 Screw Wrench in order access and remove it from the really tight access area. It will will be here today as well as the Injector and Intake Manifold Seals. The fuel line connector was broken so I had to replace it as well. Will have the T-Body out this eve. |
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Rickpxb12scgr
| Posted on Monday, December 23, 2013 - 09:52 pm: |
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What a royal PITA that was. Replaced both FWD and REAR Injectors. Even modified/replaced ALL the screws including the Throttle Body attachment bolt. Put in a six point headed bolt and it made re-inserting and tightening it a breeze. Got rid of all the T-Star aluminum crap & replaced it all with SAE Hex Steel stuff. When everything was apart, I found the Intake Valves were a bit crusty so I cleaned them up as best I could. Had to replace the Fuel Hose Connector as well as it broke apart when pulling it off. Replaced it with a Dorman quick disconnect. Put her back together this afternoon and she slugged to a slow start but when all the crap got blown out, she steadied right up. Completed a TPS reset after she ran well and the idle finally settled up. Hooked her up to ECMSPY2, reset the AFV to 100%. Did a series of restarts and then held her at 3500 to 3800 RPM's in the garage for a couple of minutes (Closed Loop) and monitored both the fuel flow, EGO and TPS. Did that three times and then let her idle. AFV stayed at a constant 95-100%. Hell of a lot better than the 68-75% I had prior R/Ring the Injectors. So far she looks good. Will do the final test in the morning when I ride her into work. Will report tomorrow eve. (Message edited by RickPXB12SCGR on December 24, 2013) |
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Rickpxb12scgr
| Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2013 - 03:20 pm: |
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Took her out for a 35 miler this morning. Air temp was 27 degs when I left and it squeaked up to 59 degs after returning home. She bogged a tad bit at 4K but after "learning", she settled up. Good idle after several shut/start evolution's. Put her on ECMSPY2 immediately after returning home. AFV/EGO both were recorded at 98-100%. Perfect. Good to go. Thanks DAVE for the Injector recommendation. Merry Christmas .... ya'll. (Message edited by RickPXB12SCGR on December 24, 2013) |
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