| Author | Message | ||
     The4ork |
Basically this is a frame overhaul! Sorry for the lame thread, but its been so long since ive been actively checking the site. I've noticed the online service manual is... not working to say the least. Unless its me? I wanted to start this thread to basically have an outlet to ask questions and post progress (later) of my teardown and build up. Also as an outlet to ask advice on where to find certain parts, and which parts i should be using. Right now the bike is in poor shape but its all there, needs TLC, mostly cosmetic. So here is my plan: This will be on a strict budget, the bulk of which will be spent of replacing wear items. Tear the bike down to the frame. The engine is the best part of the bike so im going to be leaving all of it alone. its all semi-fresh (clutch, gaskets, 1250 kit, xb heads, xb12 primary ect), also the suspension is in great shape (xb forks, no problems with rear shock), so that will be left alone as well. I have a powdercoater, i wont be doing the frame as i have nowhere to bake it, but i'll be doing all the little stuff that can fit in my cheap craigslist electric oven. here is a initial list of things i can think of to do -strip bike -paint frame -re-do all bushings -re-do frame bearings -engine mounts -powdercoat little stuff like: -triple tree -firebolt handle bars -swing arm -engine cover (if budget alows for gaskets) -valve covers (if budget alows for gaskets) -primary cover (if budget alows for gaskets) -caliper bracket -headlight bracket -rearsets -shift linkage -frame brace? (one that says buell, dont know the official name) can anyone else think of anything that needs to be done during a frame strip, while i got it apart i'd like to take care of any wear and tear items. also im considering having the frame brace welded in, instead of buying one of the bolt-on ones. I'd like more info about it, but ill see what i can find in the search. What is the frame made out of? im guessing some type of chromoly? i dont have any experience welding chromoly, so maybe i can get some stock that matches the frame and practice. All i have is a flux wire feed welder, so it might not even be possible, but i can take it somewhere to get it done as well. Should i redo all the dry sump oil hoses? are they a standard size i can cut to fit, or are they buell specific screw you in the wallet type? progress to follow. also where is a good place to get these parts, and part numbers will be great. gonna look em up, and hopefully get them verified by you guys as being correct, and i'll post them back up for anyone else attempting to do a frame resto } (Message edited by the4ork on December 22, 2013) | ||
| S1owner |
Replace the front and rear isolators, do your swing arm bearings and seals along with your stearing bearings. The oil lines you can go to your local autoparts they sell it by the foot. Replace the oil pump gear also. I did mine two yrs ago. Take detailed pics of everything. Pm me your email I have a manual on my computer I can send you. If you need parts American Sport Bike is the place to go you will not be disapointed. If you need other parts I am selling a lot in the classified area. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/728215.html?1387688746 (Message edited by S1owner on December 22, 2013) | ||
| The4ork |
thanks for the help, i couldnt remember what the isolators were called lol. figured they were important enough someone would chime in with them! my steering bearing is only about 3 or 4 years old when i did the xb front end, but ill check for play, and at least repack it with grease. whats the deal on the isolators? stock/aftermarket? | ||
| S1owner |
Isolators are a wear part and they were updated/redesigned from the original and not expensive If you remove the front motor mount from the motor you will also need new bolts they are a one time use. Good time to replace your drive belt also. Check out asb its all in stock. | ||
| The4ork |
only problem is i have no idea what drive belt is on my bike! someone told me its a uly belt, but it might be a stock belt? Its got XB wheels, and i bought it like that so since i didnt do the conversion its all a mystery to me. dont plan on replacing the "mount" i have the billet one with new bolts, just the rubber isolator. does that bolt require replacement? if so i did not install a new one last time when i swapped to xb heads | ||
| S1owner |
This may help with the belt its from Al at asb he has been helping me out with a few things it should apply to your X1 also The XB has a 65 tooth rear pulley with a 27 tooth front (same as on the S1). If you run the stock 61 tooth pulley, you’d use the XB belt, which is dimensionally identical to the stock tuber belt (128 tooth, 1.125” wide, 14mm tooth pitch, etc). But if you ran the XB pulley, you’d need a longer belt. If you put a 29 tooth front pulley on it, your ratio would be near 2.24. The stock tuber ratio is 2.26, so that would be almost identical. The XB Uly belt is 135 tooth. Maybe that would work with the larger pulley’s, not sure. The 1125 belts are 145 and 149 tooth, so I suspect they’d be way too long. | ||
| S1owner |
Also you can count the teeth on the belt to get the corrrect belt. The new Iso will come with a new bolt I think. Just the mount bolts are one time use so as long as the mount stays on the motor your good | ||
| The4ork |
I have the XB12 rear pulley (pretty sure its a 12, might be a 9?) but its xb for sure. uknown front pulley, suspect either stock or possibly xb. guess i'll have to count the teeth when i get it off. i might be able to pick a PN off it too | ||
| Jolly |
I'm not a welder, but I THINK these frames need to be TIG welded for a good weld with the chromoly tubing, (experts chime in here...  ) and the temperature has to be properly controlled, too cold and you get a bad weld, too hot and you affect the chromoly your welding into. I had to have some tabs welded onto my S2 frame and I took it to a very competent certified welder... if you have it down to the frame, now is the time to make it look perfect and powder-coat the frame, if your frame looks nice, skip it. I tore my X1 down twice, after the first time I decided I wanted the frame powder-coated white.....should have done it the first time.... | ||
| General_ulysses |
Tubular steel can be welded with stick (SMAW), TIG or MIG. TIG is usually used for aircraft type welds, but a qualified welder can use any three of these types of welding for a proper weld. In fact, although it's becoming a lost art nowadays, oxy-acetylene (gas) can also be used to fuse steel together just fine. Aluminum you're better off sticking with TIG, but steel can be handled a variety of ways. | ||
| The4ork |
Jolly, to save $ im going to POR-15 it black, since i already have POR-15 in black. I have a powder coater but i dont have a way to bake such a large piece as a frame. I basically am limited to anything i can fit into a craigslist el-cheapo electric oven. So bout the biggest thing i can bake are the wheels, which i'll be keeping the stock xb amber color. But ill be doing all the little stuff. I'll probably keep the bike all black, with the amber wheels. Im deciding weather or not i want to powder the forks, paint them, or por-15 them... at this point they are the largest pieces on the bike that arent blacked out. |
