| Author | Message | ||
     John422 |
http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-1125CR /Pulling-frame-from-engine. Please help. I'll check here if you just want to Reply here. | ||
| Mhpalin |
It's a easy job take lot's of pics Mike  (Message edited by mhpalin on December 16, 2013) | ||
| Yugi |
Here is my procedure: 0. Disconnect negative battery cable 1. remove airbox cover 2. remove airbox assembly. 3. disconnect fuel pump connector, then run the run the engine until it stalls, run the starter for 3 seconds. 4. Disconnect fuel rail. 5. Disconnect throttle cables and pull them out of the frame 6. Disconnect throttle body hose from charcoal canister (California only) 7. Unscrew the clutch master cylinder with a clutch lever from the handlebar. 8. unscrew clutch hose from the lower triple tree. 9. drain rear brake. Remove right rider heel guard, disconnect rear brake metal guide line (one coming from reservoir to the master cylinder) on top of the master cylinder, near the brake pedal. 10. remove air flow guide (the cover near the dipstick). 11. disconnect rear brake light cable from the connector near the fuel pump cover. 12. unscrew VSS sensor from the engine (behind the cover removed in 10), and tape it to the frame 13. Remove front sprocket cover. 14. Remove the exhaust. You may leave it, if you have stock exhaust. 15. Unscrew left and right radiator covers, unscrew left radiator and radiator mount from the left K-bracket. Unscrew both radiator mounts from the frame. 16. Disconnect the wire guide bracket behind the oil cooler from the engine. Not needed, if rear O2 sensor wire is rerouted. 17. disconnect front and rear O2 sensor connectors. 18. Pull rear O2 sensor wire from wire guide. Not needed if the wire is rerouted. 19. disconnect horn connectors. 20. disconnect engine harness interconnect connector behind the left radiator. 21. unscrew rear brake fluid reservoir. 22. remove starter solenoid cover. 23. disconnect starter cable from the starter solenoid, and cut zip tie connecting starter cable to the main harness. 24. remove tail bodywork (but you can leave it if you want). 25. disconnect stator connector. 26. unscrew the snorkel and remove it, pull IAT sensor from the snorkel while removing it. 27. remove sidestand and sidestand stop bracket. Optional, if you're supporting the engine by stock exhaust. 28. support the engine from the bottom or by stock exhaust with a stand. 29. Unscrew K-brackets from the frame (front bolts behind the fans). 30. Loosen pinch bolts for the right frame mounts. 31. unscrew front and rear frame mount bolts, connecting it to the engine (left and right). 32. unscrew the bottom of the rear shock from the swingarm. 33. lower the engine. 34. lift the frame with the front fork, front wheel and the rear subframe. | ||
| Xb1125r |
it would be greta to see this in youtube | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
I did this myself and it's not as bad as it looks, but do not rush it. If you get frustrated or impatient, walk away and cool off. This is how I checked my valve clearance and it was worth it. You'll also appreciate the engineering that went into your bike once you dig into it. | ||
| Skntpig |
For a first timer, what is the time estimate? | ||
| Stirz007 |
3-4 hours first time through to get your "system" worked out. By "system", I mean how you arrange jacks, stands, hoists, etc. to support both engine and frame assy's during removal/reinstallation, figuring out what tools you need (and finding them). With a couple of times through and an engine stand (helps a lot), an hour is not unreasonable. |
