Author |
Message |
Gian4
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 05:29 pm: |
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Hi all I've got to replace the battery in my cyclone. To remove it do have to remove the rear body work? If so is the only hardware holding it the torx bolts under the seat? Thanks Gian4 |
Jim2
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 07:36 pm: |
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I do mine without removing the body work. I use a couple of long extensions on a socket and reach the battery strap from the rear of the bike. I can move hoses and tilt battery just right and get it out on the left side of the bike. Took me 1 1/2 hours the first time I did it. Ten minutes after that. I have a 2000 M2 so I don't know if there is any difference in regard to this job. |
Jim2
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 07:40 pm: |
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to answer your bodywork question though, aside from the torx bolts you also have to remove the tail light and unbolt to lift the rear of the tank. Again this is for my 2000 M2 so I don't know if it's the same for the 97. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 11:15 am: |
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for many things, I only unbolt the four torx bolts holding the body down, then lift the rear of the tank to get the front extensions out. Then, prop up the body with a box or something, and I can reach just about anything. I replaced my battery couple years ago, and don't recall having to move the body, I'm sure it can be done either way. Tilting up the body is pretty easy, just don't lose the washers and stuff. As I recall, I glued rubber washers under stainless washers under the four torx screws. Then silicone-seal glued the rubber side to the body plastic. To be honest, I can't wait to change batteries again, I got the AGM sealed battery last time, Oddessy I think, but now I want one of those EVO brand two and a quarter pound batteries. Costs a bit more, but a 9 pound weight savings, is worth it to me. |
Gian4
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 01:25 pm: |
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Thanks for the help guys I've tried with socket extension and I can't get the socket onto the bolt head that holds the battery strap on. There's not enough clearance between the socket head(10mm I'm guessing)and the frame. Guess I'll have to remove the body panel and use an open end wrench. Is that battery strap bolt a 10mm and does anyone know the size of the four under seat torx bolts? Thanks guys for the help Gian4 |
Firstbuell
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:19 pm: |
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me? I cut a slot in my bodywork - this enables a wrench to access the anti-vibe nut |
Jayvee
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:51 pm: |
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T-27 I think. I had to buy a couple when I first got my M2. |
Kc_zombie
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:59 pm: |
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Some will say I am stating the obvious but... Always disconnect the negative cable first! If you disconnect the negative cable first, and reconnect it last, then the bike is not electrically connected to the negative battery terminal. Then you can disconnect the positive battery terminal with minimal risk, so if your wrench touches any part of the frame nothing will happen because the circuit is open. |
Jim2
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 05:40 pm: |
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I forgot to mention that one of my extensions has a wobble head on it and I use a deep well socket. I believe 10mm is the right size. The wobble head gives me just enough clearance to do the job. |
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