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Mark_in_ireland
| Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 02:53 pm: |
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Quick question as I've searched the archives and am confused as ever. What are the best camshafts to fit on a 1998 S1 Lightning which will drop in without mods etc. Headwork has been done, forged pistons etc. I think the 2" headers are holding back the power at the moment which is 90rwhp and 84ft.lb torque....with more fine tuning going on. |
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Rocketman
| Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 07:47 pm: |
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Andrews N9's. From memory 550 lift is max without work. Rocket |
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Blake
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 01:48 am: |
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I run 580's with no work. Smaller base circle. Yer slippin old man. ![: )](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/happy.gif) |
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Blake
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 01:52 am: |
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Mark, Give Pammy or Aaron a try. I think they both really like the Screaming Eagle 536 cams. They produce some impressive results. And they are not too pricy. Cheers, |
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Rocketman
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 04:30 am: |
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Yer slippin old man. I'm a very young 43 year old! I am reminded, as I sip my Saturday morn Earl Grey, 'Don't mess with Yorkshire'. Well the glass is somewhat frosted these days Blakey As for those cams, 916 lift suits me. Sorry, couldn't resist that one! Rocket |
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Mark_in_ireland
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 05:28 am: |
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Found this, Aaron states the 536 arn't bolt in N2 38 degrees good for 9:1 Sportsters D 41 degrees stock in Sportsters & M2's marginally early for 10:1 IMO N8 44 degrees E 46 degrees stock in XB9 & XB12 N4 46 degrees SE bolt-in 48 degrees stock in S1/S3/X1 RS567 48 degrees SE536 50 degrees NOT a bolt-in! N6 50 degrees N9 53 degrees RS585 58 degrees N80 60 degrees RS643 61 degrees RS623 62 degrees N83 64 degrees N87 70 degrees You better have some compression to run this puppy! More confused now!! |
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Aaron
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 09:28 am: |
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You won't find any cams designated as "bolt-in" with over about .500 lift. Spring travel and retainer to guide seal clearance can become an issue beyond that. Cam box clearance, valve to valve clearance, valve to piston clearance, tappet anti-rotation pin clearance, rocker arm to rocker box top clearance, and minimum seat pressure required to prevent float are all considerations as well. The cams you have are as good as it gets in bolt-ins, IMO. You can change to N8's or N6's but you won't see much difference. Confined to the bolt-in world, your ability to improve things is really limited. |
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Rocketman
| Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 03:30 pm: |
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Mark, my heads have a 20thou skim and I run stock valves. I use those thermo cooled springs from I forget who (stronger than stock) with titanium retainers etc. Jym's Hydro Solid lifters, Taperlite pushrods with stock 1200 Sporty tubes that just spring right in complete the package. No machining to the cam box or rocker box and all stock rockers etc are still in there. The Wiseco forged pistons that came with the AAC's back in 1999 are flat topped - comp is around 10:1, maybe a tad more. Andrews N9's complete the package. Yes there are better cams out there for sure, but only a handful, if that, if you want no messing. No disrespect to Aaron but N9's will go in with no machining, even at .555 lift, and they will work better than stock imho. The difference between Aaron saying otherwise is he gets similar or better performance still using the stock cam, but then Aaron's other delights are at work too, no doubt. Don't forget, I run HSR42 and the Race Kit zorst. Doubt the HI4E makes a difference, but there you go. Rocket |
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Mark_in_ireland
| Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 02:05 pm: |
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I know the exhaust is also holding power back too so Specials are modding the silencers that I supplied to get the best results, but am on the look out for the Buell Race headers....anyone have a spare set??? |
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