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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 29, 2013 » EBR Front Brake Rotor « Previous Next »

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Ronaldo
Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2013 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I replaced the OEM warped front brake rotor on a "08 XB12X with the 5mm Finned one from EBR. That was approx. 19,000 miles - now at 26,000 it is also warped. ? My brakes wear pretty evenly, which is to say I don't hammer the front brake all the time --- so what next. Does anyone know if they will replace, or is there something else out there . ???
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2013 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I find it highly unlikely either of your rotors are warped. If you are getting a shuddering while braking, it can be several things including deposits from the brake pads on the rotor, or a buildup of break dust in the rotor mounting hardware.

When you replaced the rotor, did you use the new hardware setup that EBR sells?

Which brake pads do you use? The stock pads seem to be a little more likely to leave deposits than most aftermarket pads

Also, when you come to a stop? Do you hold the bike in place with the front brake or the rear? Holding with the front can leave a deposit on the rotor as it cools, it is recommended to hold the bike in place with the rear instead.
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Sugarmcguinnmsncom
Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2013 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 to Froggy's statement, and I'll add 2 words:

Lindahl Gold
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Mnrider
Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2013 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine was pulsing some so I sanded the crap out of it with 120 and washed it with soap and water and wala no more pulse.
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2013 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Operator error
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Cyclonedon
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 01:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the stock rotor which was replaced once and now mine is pulsing again on my 06 bike with 40,000 miles on it. I've learned to live wit it, no big deal, but when I change it next time, it will be with EBR's replacement rotor. Just my $0.02 cents worth.
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Trojan
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on Froggys comments.
The stock pads are sh*t and leave a deposit on the disc that builds up and eventually makes it feel like a warped disc.

if your disc looks like it has high or hot spots on it then this is your problem.

Get rid of the stock pads, clean the disc thoroughly and then use a decent set of sintered pads from a good aftermarket manufacturer such as Braking, EBC etc.
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 06:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would go with what Froggy said. The Buell pads used a "deposit" system to coat the disc. I did not like them and they were the first thing I changed on my bikes.

Even a very slightly warped disc would make the brake near unusable. The front brake works well enough, for this bike, as long as you use good pads, change the fluid about 5k miles and keep the parts clean of brake dust and road grime. The road grime has all sorts of stuff in it including oils which, of course, are not good for brake systems.

If you change out a set of pads sand off the disc, wash it (and the caliper) with water and then wipe it over with proper brake cleaner. This is easy enough with normal pads but if you have been using Buell OEM pads it may take some time/effort to do. Also if you see any dark lines on the disc then that is contamination and the disc/pads need to be cleaned.

If you ride in dry conditions a lot the brake can "go off" a bike. Try washing them with a water hose to clean them of brake dust but NOT with a hot disc of course.

Trojan got in first, LOL. As it goes T why do you not sell the SBS ones I got from you before.
I have to use EBC now but thought the SBS to be better.

(Message edited by uly_man on September 05, 2013)
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Trojan
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Trojan got in first, LOL. As it goes T why do you not sell the SBS ones I got from you before.
I have to use EBC now but thought the SBS to be better.


It was really just a logistics change. The supplier we used stopped doing SBS pads so we swapped to the Braking brand and found them as good or better than SBS, so have stuck with them ever since : ) Lucas pads are also pretty good too.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cyclonedon, a bit off topic but you say you've done 40,000 miles. Many problems?
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Cyclonedon
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have 40,000+ miles on my 06 July with just minimal problems so far. Front brake rotor was changed under warranty, don't remember the mileage. Rear bearings were making some grinding noise so I rode it the dealer and had them replaced around 27,000 miles. Drive belt busted around 37,000 miles and I just replaced my front fork seals just under 40,000. I also had to have a news ignition switch put in because apparently when I changed the wiring to have both headlights on, I shorted out something on the switch. I've had my clutch cable replaced twice and several sets of brake pads replaced.

I have 100% confidence in the motorcycle, I would jump on it and ride to either coast without any hesitation what so ever!

It the best motorcycle I've ever owned.
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Johnshore
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2 cents. When my brake starts to pulse I blow the crap out from around the mounts on the wheel. Its the disk that floats on these not the caliper.
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Thumper1203
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I go to the extent of scotch-brighting the rotor and all mounting hardware super clean and then use a "dry-slide" lubricant sparingly on springs and locating bits between tire changes.. no problems so far.
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Ronaldo
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks gentlemen - to answer a few suggestions: i didn't get the mounting hardware, and when I lay the OEM rotor on a dead flat metal table at work ( i know this isn't precision ) it shows no sign of warp. But, i installed the EBR and the braking has been great. We did ride from PA, to Nova Scotia and I installed oEM pads about 600 miles before this (3 weeks ago) trip. It sounds like the dust/deposits are the problem. I will clean and see how that goes. I truly love this bike, i have a 2000 FLHRI, a Thunderbolt and just sold an F800ST. The XB is the best - but has more issues than the others combined. It is like fueling an addiction.
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Arry
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EBC HH pads, original disc, no more pulsing.
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Danair
Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not to hijack, but the correlation of ign switch failure and light mod, how was that determined? A lot of is have done it. Is there cause for concern?
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Cyclonedon
Posted on Friday, September 06, 2013 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danair, I thought the same when I took my July in for repair. I thought it was a head stock grounding problem but the service tec tested it with a volt meter and assured me it was the switch. They ordered me a new ignition switch, installed it in about 30 minutes and I was on my way. No problems since.
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