Author |
Message |
Team_flash
| Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 12:05 pm: |
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Well I came to the conclusion without bars I won't be as competitive especially in divisional races. I put these on and dropped a tooth on the front sprocket. Took it to Tucson last night for test n tune but only got two passes. First pass I bogged real hard and on the second pass I used my previous slipping of the clutch technique. Doubt I even hit the bars. I think I am ready for Race of the Champions and ET Finals in Vegas which is now less than two weeks away. Hopefully the pics will post from my phone otherwise I will send them later. |
46champ
| Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 04:14 pm: |
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Eric if you are bogging coming off the line you need to add air to the tire or lower the bars. A bar bike is working properly when you can let the clutch fly and the bike doesn't bog. The way it was explained to me years ago when I first started is lower the bars a 1/2 a turn at a time or add air a pound or so at a time till you get wheel spin at the launch. Then raise the bars 1/2 a turn. Oh start with the bar wheels high enough to place a plained 2X4 under the wheels. Hope this helps. |
Team_flash
| Posted on Monday, September 09, 2013 - 07:17 pm: |
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Thanks for the info 46champ but my issue was the corrected air was above 6000' and that kills my power. Here is a pic
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Fast1075
| Posted on Monday, September 09, 2013 - 10:04 pm: |
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Nice bars. Correct set up will put the front tire 2" in the air at launch. Not much chance of hopping with bars that long, but it could spin without really loading the tire. Ideally, the setup should never spin the tire under any condition. But the control ultimately is in the clutch, and as I understand it, that can be quite expensive on the Sportster based motor. A slipper clutch is the ultimate drag race clutch. Any ways best of luck! |
J2blue
| Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 12:22 pm: |
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Pretty bike! |
Hybridmomentspass
| Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 10:17 pm: |
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echoing what Flash said - you want the front about 2" off the ground, easy way to get a baseline in with a 2x4 on the ground. AND something that i do that makes it very easy to adjust is adjusting the rear through the front strap loosen the front strap a bit and the bars lower slightly, or vice versa helps especially when youre running back to back classing, hot lapping and dont have loads of time to actually WRENCH on it also - what clutch you running? |
Team_flash
| Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 10:53 am: |
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Hey guys, the bars look longer in the pic than they really are. They are a standard 65". The front strap adjust is a GREAT idea as I will be running a total of five different races at the ET Finals and Race of Champions. I am going with the intention of winning and advancing to the Nationals in Pomona. |
Hybridmomentspass
| Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 09:15 am: |
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when you run back to back classes you, most of the time, dont have time to properly adjust the rear, so it (front strap) makes it really easy and quick to adjust your bike. worked well for me in the past, hope you can benefit from it too |
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