| Author | Message | ||
     P3pete |
Hey gang. I have a new (unused) '04 that I just took home from the dealership recently. On several ocasions after I've started the bike, it has run for a minute and then stalled out after the idle speed decreased on its own/warmed up, etc. Naturally, I've double-checked that my fuel valve petcock was "on" (I usually cut it off after each ride), etc. The few times this stalling issue has happened, the bike did eventually start up after a few minutes of waiting, as if the carb somehow got flooded. I start the bike up each time without giving it any throttle, assuming that it was tuned correctly and that the fuel enricher was doing its thing and didn't need my help. So any idea what the problem is? I don't have the owner's manual yet (it is being mailed to me) so I don't know if I'm doing anything wrong on start-up. I just passed 100 miles on the odo (the bike had no mileage). It runs fine (when it gets past the warm-up). Thanks in advance, guys. -Pete | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Got Warranty? Is it a California bike? Is it stalling when letting out the clutch? (If so, the kickstand is probably down and the safety switch is shutting it down). Are you letting idle excessively? (letting it idle for more than a minute is unnecessary and harmful to a new engine. A brand new motor is very tight and sometimes the idle doesnt 'settle' in until you've got some break-in miles on it-it could also cause it to stall if the motor is tight and/or if its overheating). There is also the possibility of a leaking intake boot sometimes known to have been improperly tightened by the dealer. | ||
| Ezblast |
Try checking and tightening your intake boot, or even replacing it if that doesn't cure it in tightening. Thats my first bet, though I would check plug and wire for tightness as well. This assumes a host of other things are fine. Start with that though. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
My two guesses: A partially clogged jet from a bike sitting for a year with Gas in the carb. The Idle speed was not set correctly. James | ||
| Ezblast |
Also - just maybe - primary too tight? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| P3pete |
Hey guys, thanks for all the info. To reply to the questions you asked: It's not a CA bike (as far as I know). I took delivery of it from an H-D/Buell dealership in New Jersey, so I doubt that they would order a bike with CA emission specs. It did sit for months already assembled... it was an '04 that was a prize/raffle gift in April of this year. The winner never took delivery and I eventually bought it from her. There were only 4-miles on the odo from the test run by the dealer. I've got a warranty (the dealer transferred it over to me already) and the paperwork/owner's manual are being mailed to me, should have them ina few days. So in the meantime I asked the question about the warm-up procedure since I didn't have the manual. As far as the intake boot, can anyone tell me where that is and how to tighten it? I already downloaded the Service Manual PDF file from this site, so maybe it's in there somewhere... I'll also read up on the carb jet and about setting the idle speed. I had read that I should warm up the bike for just about a minute, and I wasn't planning on letting it idle unecessarily; I was just going to wait a minute until I heard the idle speed drop down to normal, and then take off and ride it easily until it warmed up fully. Thanks again guys, let me know what you think... -Pete | ||
| Ezblast |
Could be a gummed jet,loose intake boot, or too tight primary. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Overload |
I'm having this same problem with the Blast I just bought. It's an 01. Took it to shop, and they're working on it, but they currently (as of my last phone call), think it's the intake boot, and maybe the jetting (bought it from SC, now in CO). I'll know more this week. Overload in Colorado | ||
| Jumping_death |
I am having a similar problem. I see on this thread and in others in the archive that the intake boot should be checked, but I don't know what that is. (I'm really quite ignorant) I couldn't find it in the service manual either. Is there another name for it? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
coupler (manifold carburator, carburator boot. What state do you live in? Another common reason for stalling is trying to take off with the kickstand down. (kickstand safety switch-sounds stupid but we've all done it). | ||
| Jugallo94 |
I have come across a funky problem. My bike starts and runs fine, but with the kickstand down and clutch lever released when I set the bike on the stand it stalls out. My neutral like flikers on and off no matter what, I think it might have to do with that. I was thinking that with the neutral light acting funky like it is the bike thinks it is in gear and when the bike is leaned over onto the stand it dies. But if I leave the stand down and not rest the bike on it it runs ok in neutral. The only time it dies is when the bike is in neutral, kickstand down, clutch released, and bike leans over to set on kickstand. If stand is up no problem. Any ideas, or am I thinking correct about the neutral switch. The light started acting up on my trip for the FBRAT kickoff, but no other problems until this weekend. | ||
| Ezblast |
Kick stand switch. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Thanks, Ez. I am not that good with electrical stuff. I figured the kickstand switch just monitored weather it us up or down. Guess it must have an angle sensor in it also. I can put the kickstand down and keep the bike level and it runs. But as soon as I start to lean it over it dies out. | ||
| Ezblast |
I really don't think it is the tilt sensor switch, however, if it isn't the kick stand, it may well be the other. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jumping_death |
Thanks Gearhead! I live in Michigan. I'm sure it's not the kickstand (although, I have done that before!) I'm going to tighten the boot and if that's not it, check the slow jet. | ||
| Light_keeper |
Jumping Death. The intake boot is the hunk of rubber hose (Thats what it looks like anyway) with two hose clamps on it connecting the carb to the upper part of the engine. If you go to the right hand side of the bike. put your hand on the black not shiney plastic box (air box) with the tabs on it and slide your hand towards the front of the bike and up under the fuel tank you will find the carb. still moving towards the front you will see the afore mentioned rubber hose with hose clamps. look very carefully at it. if you are going to attempt to tightn the hose clamps. Make sure the carb connection (the piece inside the hose) and the connection on the engine side (same function on the engine side) are firmly and completely pushed together. Inside that hose is a ridge that is about 1/2 inch with that the two sides need to mate upto. once that is done check the hose clamps and make sure they are aligned in the grooves on the hose. if they are not in the grooves you could cut the hose when you tightn up. also if the two sides are not completely together it is possible to over tightn and cut the boot. Trust me about how easy it is to over tightn and cut the boot.  | ||
| Jprovo |
Jugallo, The flickering neutral light might be the source. The engine might think it's in gear when it's in neutral like you suspect. I'd check the diode in the use block, and the electrical connection to the neutral switch for a bad conection. You also might want to make sure that you kickstand and switch are in good working order, but if the stand is down, but not leaned over, I don't see how electricaly it' going to change anything when you lean the bike over. There would be a visible mechanical failure there if that was the case. If all else fails, look at your Bank Angle Sensor. James (Message edited by jprovo on September 26, 2005) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Jugallo, also if you completely unbolt the kickstand safety switch and leave it hanging the bike will run. You can then wave that thing around and play with it while the bike is running.In fact you can ride off with it hanging that way. If you disconnect the switch, the bike will still run, but when you let the clutch out in gear, it will stall. If completely in doubt whether the kickstand switch is good or bad, permanently connect the 2 wires going into the switch and you'll never have that problem again! | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I plan on taking a look at it tonight. Regards to my neutral light, I think its the connection at the switch. Last night I went out and jiggled the connection and it temporarily fixed the light problem, until I started it then the blinking began. I jiggled it again and there came a steady green light. I will look into it a bit more tonight. Hopefully that connection fixes everthing. | ||
| Swampy |
Jumping Death, What part of Michigan I live in St Johns. | ||
| Jumping_death |
Thanks for the help everyone. It was the intake boot. Lightkeeper, I certainly would've over-tightened if not for your advice. Swampy, I live in Bloomfield Hills (it's a northwestern suburb of Detroit) | ||
| Jugallo94 |
jumping, there are plenty of buell riders in the area that are able to help with problems. I live in taylor, and work out of livonia, so its not that far from ya. But there are also other people in the area that know more then I do. If you need help with anything let me know. | ||
| Swampy |
Jumping Death, I grew up in BFH, I live in a swamp now...where I'm safe! About the blinking Neutral light, I found the shift drum retaining bolt loose on the Big Kids Blast. What would happen with the bolt loose is the shift drum would slide right and left causing the switch to go on and off. It has been a problem on alot of Blasts. Try leaning the bike far to the right when the light flickers, and if it goes off that would indicate the shift drum moving around. | ||
| Jugallo94 |
I havent even dealt with the neutral light. I can jiggle the connection and the light flickers on and off so I figured its a loose connection, just havent had a chance to really get into it yet. | ||
| Dingosm8 |
Anyone have the part number for the intake hose? I think mine is doing the same thing. I sprayed the intake hose with WD/40 and its been idling for quite a while. Where as before it would die randomly from 1 second to about a minute. Thought it was the kick stand switch. But I hotwired it and it still did it. Anyway. Part number would be super fantastic, so I could get it at bike bandit vs twice as much at the harley dealer. I assume they're all the same.. but mine's a 2001. Thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you try reversing the diode too? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html "Das Boot" part # 27443-00Y Still the same after all these years! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS And welcome to Badweb! | ||
| Dingosm8 |
Yea i found it. in a review of the part installation from somewhere else.. 27443-00Y thanks. Bike bandit has all these parts. But they dont have listings for any buells. So I can't get any exploded diagrams to get numbers from. This is actually my wife's account and bike. I ride an XB9sx. I actually crashed her blast last night. Well that's a little dramatic. I was wearing boots.. I'm tall.. and well.. My heel got caught on the crummy aftermarket foot pegs and then when it started falling the handle bars pinned my leg to the bike and I plopped over like a dead fish. Solved the problem of the crappy foot peg. A 0-mph tip broke it right off. Moral of the story is. Found all the part numbers. And put em in bike bandit.. worked fine. | ||
| Overload |
I should let you know how my problem was solved. Adjusting the idle didn't work. The boot was fine. What solved it for me was replacing the electronics module. The dealership couldn't find the problem, but when they swapped my module with one from another Blast, the problem went away. So, a solution was found, even if the cause of the problem wasn't. Overload in CO (Message edited by Overload on September 29, 2008) (Message edited by Overload on September 29, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Then it was your clutch safety switch and flipping the diode should have worked. EZ | ||
| Dingosm8 |
how does swapping the diode make the module fail vs a different one? I am too suspicious of the safety switches. When it dies. It doesn't sputter. It acts like it was cut off. But.. first things first. I took off the carb to check the connecting tube and clean the jets if need be. And the connector has just about had it. There are several cracks on the inside that don't appear to be making it to the outside yet.. But why do it twice. Got to wait for the brake pedal and brake handle and pegs anyway. another 10 bucks is good insurance. But I'm dying to get back to trouble shooting that stalling issue. It also is a bitch to start. So Maybe more than one problem. Once warm... it idles right along.. till it just stops. then kicks right over. But cold.. and I mean... like 1 hour with a fan on it. and its back to really hard to start. | ||
| Reuel |
Electronics module? Would that be the ignition module? If swapping it was the solution, then it was the problem. The only weak part of the ignition module is the hall effect sensor. Sometimes one of the pins will break, but stay in contact. Then, temperature changes, RPM changes, or whatever, can cause that wire to not make as good contact, resulting in rough running, strange backfiring, or just the occasional dead engine. |
