| Author | Message | ||
     Kellenbm |
People have been telling me that the Tappets will make noise until the fill up. But this clatter does not go away. My question is with the cam case open I put a wrench on the pinion bolt and turn it back and forth should I be getting any clunking? Or should it be smooth with just compression are out of the spark plug holes. | ||
| Sparky |
The answer probly has something to do with how many miles are on the engine and what cams are in it. The stock cams are fairly well matched together so that the cams' gear to gear tolerances are minimal and will likely make the least amount of noise as compared to aftermarket cams (Screaming Eagle) which are not produced the same way resulting in slightly more clatter from cam gear noise. Loud tappet noise on startup can happen when the lifters are not fully pumped with oil. But if they continue to be noisy, that's an indication of some kind of mechanical problem which could be a collapsed lifter or a jammed roller scuffing its cam. | ||
| Blake |
Turning the crank from the gear case side you will feel the slop in the primary/transmission side. If you're not sure, best have a professional look at it. First place to check for excessive slop in valve trainee ought to be removal of the rocker box covers and measuring play there. You've done that already yes? If not you may be damaging the cam bearings by leaving the pushrods under load with the outboard cam bearing support (the gear case cover) removed. There will also be backlash in the cam gears, especially at room temperature. | ||
| Oldog |
Kell: cheap insurance, pull the top end on the motor, do the crank inspection you may have a rod big end bearing going bad. If you put the motor back together with this bad the resulting damage will be much worse $$ wise VS the time and $$ to pull the jugs / primary etc, You had metal get into the oil pump until you find its source You risk loosing the engine... To second what sparky is saying, the lifters make a distinct tapping noise until they pump up. Crank problems happen at a higher speed vs valve trane noise, NOTE the gears on the cams make a clicking sound as the engine runs. | ||
| Blake |
Buell engine clatter doesn't usually go away. They typically sound like a cacophony of clatter. It's an air cooled engine and the valve train needs some slop in it to avoid REALLY serious problems like valves not closing all the way. It's the job of the engine oil to fill and help cushion so-to-speak the slop/gaps in the valve train. Some oil is better at helping to quiet valvetrain noise than others. Also, the cam gears get back driven by the pushrods/lifters during the valve-closing event. That clatter can be worse on some engines than others. It's not a problem though, just can be annoying. (Message edited by Blake on June 06, 2013) | ||
| Blake |
A loose crank or connecting rod produces much more of a low pitched knock than a clatter. Think 20 LB sledge versus a half inch wrench tapping on the engine cases. You can place a dowel at least 8" long through the spark plug hole and try to see if there is excessive slop between crank and piston as you work crank back and forth. Check somewhere near mid-stroke. If you turn the crank back and forth but the dowel resting on the piston face doesn't move, you may have a loose rod bearing on that cylinder. This sounds like a simple test, but it can be tricky due to slop in the wrench and/or socket you employ. | ||
| Kellenbm |
I pulled the jugs off. The main front bearing is gone. Thanks for the reply's | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bummer. Clever test Blake. | ||
| Thejosh |
The tappets could be stuck, run some marvel mystery oil in it, see if it frees them up. | ||
| Kellenbm |
I pulled the jugs off. The main front bearing is gone. Thanks for the reply's | ||
| Oldog |
Sorry to hear this Kell Glad that you caught it, a crank and oil pump and perhaps a set of lifters. I would check the sponsors, perhaps some one can help you get it repaired, Try KY rocket he had a rod bearing quit. and had the wheel repaired. I would suspect the crank primary and cam side bearing until you inspect or replace them as well. I wish you luck | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Since yours is a 2000 X1, it has the pressed together crank. There are only a few places that do those. I think Cyclerama does I know Darkhorse does for sure. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It may be cheaper to buy the whole bottom end already assembled. It wouldn't hurt to ask around of course. | ||
| Kalali |
How many miles on the bike? What would cause a damage like this? | ||
| Oldog |
What would cause a damage like this? Any number of things, Dirty oil, loss of oil pressure / flow at high rpm, Metal fatigue, manufacturing flaw / defect, accidental over speed, pin or cage failure ............ Bearing life predictions are kind of an imprecise science, under a given loading condition "X", the vast majority of bearings are expected to last "Y" amount of time, but there will be a random failure 1 in 2000 say, so it sorta just happens. Other failures are caused by Poor lubrication, Lubrication failure over load mechanical damage improper handling (dirt) Its sad to hear these events, but on the bright side he caught it before the cases were damaged or destroyed, I bet main and rod bearings, possibly lifters, and a good flush, new oil lines and it will be fine. } | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks Oldog, as always. Sounds like regular and frequent oil changes should help in reducing the likelihood. | ||
| Oldog |
Yes Kal; I would expect that regular changes will help, monitoring level etc, Most folks change oil and filter each time, I have an oil pressure gauge fitted to the dash when cold your engine is developing about 30-40 psi at road speed, and the oil is harder to pump even though the metal parts you can touch are warm) it takes about 5-10 miles at normal speed to warm the oil to operating temp in warm weather In cold weather I have seen 20+ miles to settle into normal pressure about 14 psi moving about 10 - 12 idling. So trying to limit engine speed until you have had the motor running say 5-20 minutes is a good idea. |
