| Author | Message | ||
     Joplin |
Heya all, of course I'm "participating" when I have a problem  . Actually it's not so bad. 1995 S2, stock (I think), that had been leaking a bit of oil even after new pr tube seals. Upon closer inspection, it looked like there were bits of gasket showing under the cylinder. If I was smart I would have known that the cylinder was maybe loose. Well I proceeded to take the rocker boxes off and then tackled the heads, and then it was clear what had happened. THe rear bolts were almost finger tight. THe base gasket was in pieces. I cannot spend any extra money on her right now, i just want to ride. What do I need to do to make her reliable? Should I take the heads in for check if they got warped running with no tension? Do I need to hone the cylinders? New rings? Valves? ???? She was running great before I decided the oil leak was too much. I'm just down the road from NRHS, should I take them in there? Is their Stage 1 service worth the $550? Also, I am not a machinist so I don't feel to comfortable taking measurements and tolerances. Thanks in advance for your input. jm | ||
| Essmjay |
Cheap down and dirty. Buy a top end gasket kit. Pull the heads and the cylinders but leave the pistons in the cylinders via removing the wrist pins. Examine the bore with a good light. If there is no outrageous scoring then leave as is. Clean the gasket surfaces and reinstall with new circlips on the wrist pins. follow the torque instructions that come with the gasket kit. Use the updated HD gaskets which will leave out the dowel pin orings. That is the cheapest "get it back on the road" solution. However, if you have the money and are just down the road from NRHS, it would be a simple matter to take the jugs to them and have them hone the jugs for new rings. They can even give them back to you with the pistons installed. If you want to not have to do it all over again sooner than later, then yes, spend the money to have heads done. Also, you can have them match the head work to a 1250 kit if you want to really ride it. | ||
| Joplin |
lol  cylinders are already off,,,argh,,, so if all looks "okay", do I still need to hone and install new rings? thinking so,,,  just spoke with NRHS, very helpful,,, thanks essmjay | ||
| Blks1l |
If everything looks okay you don't need to hone and re-ring. I resealed the top end of my S1, it had about 20,000 miles and you could still see the cross hatch marks in the cylinders, it went back together with the original rings. | ||
| Joplin |
Yeah thanks Blks, the cross hatch is still there. Everything looks good, was worried that the studs were pulling out but the front and back have the same shoulder at the block so it doesn't seem the studs were pulling out. Whats the best way to clean it up (carbon)? The gasket on the loose head just came off, haven't checked the front cylinder (which was tight). thanks again jm | ||
| Essmjay |
new rings and a hone job is relatively cheap and will help ensure that you don't have to do the job over soon. | ||
| Arizona_buell |
I have to agree with Essmjay but I don't have all the answers. I would not personally put it back together without new rings and a hone job . But some here would. I am of the opinion it is apart rings maybe cost $50.00 kind of cheap peace of mind where I come from. I would also replace the valve seals if they are stock. But you can do whatever makes you feel good. It may last years it may not but peace of mind is good to have. Just my 2 cents. Mark | ||
| Joplin |
Thanks Essmjay and Mark, good advice,,, jm |
