| Author | Message | ||
     Wolk625 |
Upon figuring out my tuning trouble was coming from a leaking intake seal, I replaced it, but later noticed that I hadn't been able to do it successfully, and it was still leaking. I dug and dug online to find any and all definitive tips on how to correctly and effectively install an intake seal and got it all apart again and attempted it all over again - my process the second time around: applied a light coat of petroleum jelly to the seals themselves before installing them over the flanges, re-inserted the intake assembly into its rough position, got the intake bracket (supported by the breathers) finger tight and wiggled everything around while re-positioning the manifold and flanges, slowly getting the flanges snugged evenly (front-rear AND left-right...),then tightened the breathers down, then finished off evenly tightening down the flange bolts. And lo and behold, it still leaks.... *sigh* - albeit nowhere near as bad as before but there is still an rpm drop when sprayed.. So. Is there anything obvious that I could have done to have ensured it was done correctly or is doing this always going to be this big of a PITA? Or if maybe I'm overlooking something else? Is it possible/not unheard of for the manifold to suck in air through the injector o-rings? I'm also pretty skeptical of the integrity of the rest of the fuel system - hoses are lookin' pretty rough in some places but there's no obvious leaks anywhere.. Thoughts? | ||
| Dannybuell |
Petroleum jelly is rumored to rot the rubber seals, many years ago I was told KY was better for that. | ||
| Nukeblue |
I did mine three times before i figured out it was the injector o-ring at the manifold rear cylinder. that's prob yer problem and i used vasoline with no problems (Message edited by nuke-blue on March 14, 2013) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Use SilGlyde on all the intake seals AND O rings and your problems disappear. Seriously. The injector O ring is a really good place to start as Nuke stated. | ||
| Devil_car |
Like Nukeblue, I think your problem may be elsewhere. I once did mine multiple times chasing a problem that was unrelated (ended up being the fact that the dealership took it upon themselves to change my jetting, when I had only taken the bike in to have the petcock replaced under warranty). The intake seals are relatively simple to replace. Also another bonehead move on my part was checking the seals by spraying carb cleaner and inadvertently spraying it into the air cleaner (Forcewinder), which led me to believe I had a leak. Having said all of that, the replacement is relatively straightforward and usually works on the first try. Per recommendations here, I now use SilGlyde, too, but I have successfully done it other ways, as well. | ||
| Wolk625 |
So it seems like I'm getting a variety of different responses here. Looks like I'll try to do some data logging tomorrow and see exactly what's going on. Just as a double-check: it saves in the ecmspy folder or elsewhere? | ||
| Nukeblue |
it's a mechanical problem. idle changes when sprayed. find the leak i'd say. long nozzle & try to spray right at the lower injector o-ring... *just change the injector o-rings. easier than doin the intake. rule it out* (Message edited by nuke-blue on March 15, 2013) | ||
| Buell3some |
I own 2 tubers and changed the intake seals on my S3T 5 yrs ago. It was my first ever attempt with stock oem HD seals and it was successful. I did the same job on my X1 with HD seals and couldnt get it to seal to save my life. Bought 2 more seals tried it again with some silicone and still leaked. Finally i ordered the seals from American Sportbike (along with that nice allen wrench) and it finally sealed. They were aftermarket James gasket brand seals and i think they were a little thicker because it was tighter putting bactogether. I dont know why and cant explain it but the X1 is still leak free after using those seals. |
