| Author | Message | ||
     Goody |
While out riding yesterday the vent line from my tranny started spewing oil. It also started leaking around the starter. All of this happened after the topend rebuild and the 1250 kit. I have read the threads in here and from what i can gather its the crank seal. I have a 01 M2 and it should have the double lip seal but im sure after 12 years the seal is shot. My question is; do i need to pull the clutch assembly off to get the stator off once i break the crankshaft nut loose? Is there enough slack in the primary chain so that i can lift it off the stator without having to pull the clutch basket? Looking for words of wisdom, it seems easy enough and not that complicated. However, simple jobs can sometimes prove to be the most difficult if you're not prepared. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You take off both the clutch nut and the crank nut, and remove the clutch, stator bell, and primary chain as a unit. Annoying (as the stator magnets fight you) but not a big deal. That engine case is soft as butter, you almost cant be too careful getting that old seal out. It's easy to leave marks (which often won't have any real effect on reliability of the new seal, but they make it look like you are more of a hack than you really are). | ||
| Pikeben08 |
To prevent multiple runs to the store like i did: Crank nut is 1 1/8" Clutch nut is 1 3/16" (why can't they be the same size!!!! grrrrr!!!!) Clutch nut is LEFT HAND THREAD! Hack up a piece of aluminum flat stock or angle to lock the primary drive. You'll need a big torque wrench when putting the crank nut back on. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Todd, I have a homemade installation tool, locking bar and the appropriate sockets if you have need of the tools I can box them up and ship to you as loaners. There was a group of people here this summer that had a machine shop crank out some 20-30 seal drivers as well, so maybe someone has the actual tool for the job. I'm confident in my ABS driver too though. If you do a search in the Old School within the last year you'll find a thread with lots of pictures. My info was a great example of what not to do, but I eventually got it right Get a seal puller with a small tip to get the old one out, needs to be small as there is interference from the crank. Harbor freight sells a "side handle" seal puller that looked about right for the job, but I opted for the slide hammer instead and it worked for me. | ||
| Devil_car |
You may want to look at your crankcase vents to make sure they are not plugged. Check the breather lines coming out of the breather bolts to make sure they aren't pinched or melted. Mine once contacted the header and melted itself closed. Replacing the crank seal isn't too hard, just be careful and follow the advice given here. Most importantly, make sure you don't drive the seal in too deep and don't scratch the case when you pull the old seal out. On a side note... Man, I'm sorry I missed out on the group buy of seal drivers, but my PVC coupler homemade job worked like a champ last year when I replaced my seal. It even had the right step to make sure I didn't drive it too deep. (Message edited by Devil_car on February 25, 2013) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You can tell pretty much immediately if your engine oil is getting in to the primary by looking at the color of the juice that's in the primary. Engine oil typically turns dark pretty quick but the primary juice stays pretty much the same throughout the 5000 mile mark. It does sound like you're having the crank seal issue though. Mine did exactly what you described at around the 45,000 mark. Climbed mount washington on the dirt road with a well-lubed rear brake. Good scary fun  | ||
| Goody |
Thanks all, I'm 99% sure its the crank seal, the primary oil was just changed 350 miles ago and its filthy. I'm a welder/fabricator so making my own tools for this job will be easy. I've replaced many a shaft seal on various engines. This will be no different however I wanted to get a consensus from the brain trust on how and what to look out for. Fortunately I have access to all of the torque wrenches and I can manufacture my own locking bar. I will take pics when I do it and post them here for future reference. Since I did a complete rebuild of the top end, the one way valves in the heads are new, and I can feel the crankcase air bleeding off at the end of the hose. However I have to say, with the ported/polished rebuilt heads and 1250 kit, when you downshift from 5th to 3rd at 65mph and whack the throttle open, the front end hops!!!  |
