| Author | Message | ||
     7873jake |
I have an automotive (non-Buell) wiring project ahead on a non-CAN Bus layout with a few relays in the mix and an auxiliary fuse block (up to about 6 aux non-ignition switched circuits). It is all straight 12v under 20 amps on any circuit. I've got the layouts drawn and the hardware (wiring, fuse block, relays) on the bench but haven't decided which terminals/connectors to use. Its one of those rare chances to pick which ever one(s) I want as my total probably won't exceed 6-8 connectors. I've found Deutsch connector kits for several hundred dollars and a GM style kit here: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/GM-Weather pack-Terminal-Kit-101-Pieces-With-Storage-Tray.htm l Before I decide on which ones to use, I know there are several skilled hands here who use/work/design around these things regularly. Any suggestions, insights, recommendations? I have access to Deutsch tools at work and several other types of crimpers in my garage so the tool price is not an enormous issue. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My opinion? It is less about the connector, and more about the crimp tool. Scratch that, it is ALL about the crimp tool. I'm rebuilding an "in a bucket" 1978 KZ400. The wiring harness was butchered, then melted, then butchered, then melted again by the time I got it. Bummer that poeple would do that, but it got me a solid runner dirt cheap... provided I build my own replacement wiring harness from scratch. I'm using simple bullet connectors for everything, but with this crimp tool, the crimp tool of the gods! http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partn umber=360-642 Just get that, and a few hundred bullet connectors of both genders from ebay, and go to town. | ||
| 7873jake |
 Got one of those (actually have three, one for electrical connections, two for RF crimps on LMR cabling--saves from having to change the crimp dies constantly between jobs). I couldn't agree more on the notion that its the crimp tool that makes the difference. A good crimp tool can elevate a crappy connector to adequate, in a pinch, but a crappy crimp tool can make good connectors, welll, crappy. This type of crimper was one of the reasons I was contemplating the GM set of connectors (in the link above) because we have the dies to do those. | ||
| Uly_man |
My opinion, and no disrespect to anyone else, is this. Deutsch connectors are the best and military grade. The GM ones should be good enough though. If this is for a bike I would use silicon cable as its good in heat or cold. Crimp the ends but ALSO solder as well as this will stop vibration and air ingress (corrosion of the cable) damage to the joint which is a VERY common problem on bikes. Do this on all joints/connections and use the right blocks on the relays, if you can, and a double layer of heat shrink tube, on any exposed ends, running past the joint end. This will stop the cable "breaking off" at the joint end IE like is does on some joints on the Uly. Last DO NOT use lots of Earth points as some do for say indicators. Run each circuit back to a single Earth point. Ok so this sounds like a lot more work, and it is, but this is the "Pro way" of doing it and it will, if done right, never give you any problems. Bullet and spade connectors are something I have found to be one of the Devils best kept secrets. Yes they can work ok if fitted right the problem is most DO NOT? I find they cause no end of problems on bikes. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Summit Racing has a good Deutsch connector kit for reasonable price. Use it on connectors on Bonneville bike to keep salt out.Look here. http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Deutsch &dds=1 | ||
| 7873jake |
Jim, That's a very good price for that kit. I've found it for almost twice that price elsewhere. (*edit correction: I was only finding the 150+ pc kit for $150-200) Thanks for that link. I think after doing some more digging and layout work, I'm probably going go that route. We do limited Deutsch work at work but it is mostly the bigger connectors. This one has the 2-3-4-6 connector assortment which I was hoping to find (and affordable). (Message edited by 7873jake on January 11, 2013) | ||
| Griffmeister |
Another thing to consider is that the Deutsch connectors are a lot more compact than the weather pack ones. Notice how the weather packs just keep adding wires "in-line" which can make for a large connector with 4 or more wires. Not fun when you actually have to install the harness. Of course you can leave the terminals bare to install and put the housings on afterwords. | ||
| Tootal |
When it comes to electrical connections I'm with Uly Man. My experience with the wires on the horn of a Harley has taught me this. The horn is bolted to the engine through a rubber block. The horn shakes like crazy! The two wires going there were always breaking. I had fixed it so many times that I was about out of wire so I had one last chance of getting it right and here's what I did. I crimped a new connector on the wire lightly, just to hold it on there. Then I soldered it. I had slid a piece of shrink wrap, twice as long as I needed, up the wire. Once the solder cooled I slid the shrink wrap up over the solder joint and I heated the area over the solder joint till it was stiff. I left the other half "unshrunk". This acts like a shock absorber and keeps the wire from bending at the end of the solder. After many miles this fix is still working and that's the only way I will do it now. Have never had any electrical joint failures doing it this way. On another note, I have done a "crimp only" on some wires that were going to be a pain to solder. I put dielectric grease on the bare wire and crimped it with good crimp pliers and then used the same shrink wrap procedure. I've had no problems with this method either. |
