Author |
Message |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 03:04 pm: |
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I posted in the knowledge vault also-same title. Sorry for the duplicity but I need my bases covered. I recently purchased a Baker 6 from a fellow BadWebber. I confirmed with Baker that it is the correct unit for a 99 S3. The tranny was missing the template so I ordered one from Baker and they have instructions online. I am a good parts changer and a so so actual mechanic, my questions are: 1. Should I attempt the job myself? I have the tools and a primary locking bar for tear down, as well as patience and a shop manual for backup. The local dealer offered to do the install for $600.00 that seemed a little steep for what looks like take apart/grind/clean/put back. Perhaps they know of what they speak and I should leave transmission work to the pros. 2. I did not order another gasket from baker, can I buy an OEM trapdoor gasket or do I need special Baker gaskets? Any links to threads on actual installs and or personal advice would be appreciated. |
Lakes
| Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 04:31 pm: |
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i doubt a dealer would have put many baker 6 speeds into Buells so would be new to them too. if you feel your ok go for it as gearbox's are not that hard and everything is new. just try to talk to someone at Baker first to make sure you have everything and know what needs doing. good luck |
Preybird1
| Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 05:27 pm: |
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I would try it yourself. I would not pay any dealer to do it. Last time i had any tranny work done to my X1 the HD idiots broke the transmission and i had to sue them to get them to pay for there F'up. It cost me $800 to have some more tranny mods done to it but i installed it and would not let them touch it! I would rather break it my self then let those idiots touch it. It's not that hard to do. |
Eshardball
| Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 05:48 pm: |
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Ditto on XL tranny work from a dealer.Don't bother. If the trans in new then all the clearances should be good to go. I don't know if their kit includes mainshaft 5th but I would replace the bearing in the right case while you had everything apart. I would be surprised if there is a gasket for the trap door since the primary fluid and trans fluid are the same sump |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:41 am: |
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"I would be surprised if there is a gasket for the trap door since the primary fluid and trans fluid are the same sump" As far as the stock tranny goes there is not a gasket, it's all sitting in the same puddle of fluid. If you have the tools it's a relatively easy job to pull the tranny. Assuming the Baker is a direct swap any competent parts changer can do it. I had my trans out a month or so ago while I tried to diagnose some shifting trouble. New clutch and reinstall were very easy. While it's apart I'd strongly suggest checking your main crank bearing seal and replacing it with the updated part. If it's original and not showing it's it's used up, well it is so get it swapped out. Harbor Freight has some inexpensive seal pullers, get one and then do that job too. I have a homemade pvc seal install tool I'll be happy to mail you, worked fine on my bike. 20 or so seal drivers were recently made too, so maybe someone you know here on badweb just bought one. I can find those couple threads for you if you have need of them. Bugs |
Eshardball
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 06:33 am: |
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oooo. good suggestion. I forgot about the damn crank seal.I presume that the trans came with the Baker shift drum so updating the detent plate would be unnecessary. |
Thejosh
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 09:06 am: |
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Ditto on what littlebuggles said, I recently pulled my tranny to do some work on the shift drum, very easy job as long as you have the locking bar (can be made) and a torque wrench capable of 250 ft lbs. |
Buellish
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 09:15 am: |
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There isn't a gasket on the trap door.This is an easy job all around.You will also need a number 32 drill bit to do the shift pawl adjustment.Keep your shop manual handy for the shift pawl adjustment and torque specs. |
46champ
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 10:07 am: |
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This is how I would approach this if Buellistic jumps on here with one of his statements of send a PM for the procedure the I would go for it. If he stays away from the thread then you need to ask yourself why. |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 10:55 am: |
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Thanks for the input, I am very leary of paying 600 bucks for what looks like a careful, slow, precise parts change. I am still collecting info. all advice is appreciated |
Blackm2
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 11:17 am: |
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You should be able to do it. I made a video when I did my crank seal a few weeks ago. This will get you to the trap door at least. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdovl68LIFo |
Jayvee
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 12:41 pm: |
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I wound up paying Vallejo HD/Buell (now defunct.) You should try it if you can do the slow, careful part. Looks like just unbolt, grind a bit, bolt in. I have two very active kids, one very active spouse, could never find the time. Here, we never have extended periods of weather-related downtime, just intermittent rain during winter. If I was like, snow-bound, I would've tried it. I'm glad I got it, that's for certain. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 01:09 pm: |
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As Eshardball says, you should replace the bearing in the right case while you're in there and the mainshaft 5th whether it comes with the kit or not. Getting that gear out requires a puller and a lot of balls. I did a tranny transplant (stock for stock) a few years ago and took everything apart that I could, then trailered the bike to a dealer to have them pull the fifth gear. |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Friday, November 30, 2012 - 01:01 pm: |
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Mainshaft gear will tap out with a plastic hammer but why remove it? And the Baker uses the stock trans fifth so you need to swap. Not sure on yours but the S-2 looses the neutral light for some reason. And on the last one I did the factory setting with the #32 bit would not shift for crap. Redid it several times until it shifted well. The grinding is really easiest part. |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 06:03 pm: |
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very well friends, I've decoded to tackle the job myself and spend the install cash on some ventura luggage after the successful install. The primary came off just fine, and the OEM unit came right out. The very nice people at Baker have been fielding my phone calls and looking at my pics in an effort to head off mistakes. I am not sure the previous owner of the XL6, a fellow Badweber, had it set for standard shift, I'm a little worried about it being set for reverse pattern. The dowel in the shift drums are 180 degrees out from each, so I imagine there will be some disassembly required. as you can see in the last photo, the dowels are 180 out, I know the OEM is in neutral |
Jim2
| Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 08:22 pm: |
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It looks like you have a broken piece on the Baker. The arm that would hold the spring for the detent pivot is missing. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 11:24 pm: |
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You ought to be able to exercise it by hand on the bench and figure out the pattern... just spend some time staring and thinking. |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 09:36 am: |
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Thanks for the extra eyes, I saw the broken detent arm and ordered one last week. I just needn't figure out the shift drum, I can be thick sometime |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 01:42 pm: |
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The fellow Badwebber I purchased from contacted me and assisted in my thick headedness. Thank you Sir. It seems to be just fine and I will attempt my grind out and reinstall today. |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 10:40 pm: |
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It all went together fantastic, with no real hang ups. I did all my assembly strictly by the book and the trans shifts just fine all the way up to 6th gear on the stand. Tomorrow I will fit the fuel tank and seat (I took advantage of the down time to fit adjustable pushrod tubes to stem the flow of oil). I'll make my report and then I'm in the market for a Ventura setup for an S3T if you boys have a line on one for me. Thanks to the Bad Webber who sold me the tranny, he contacted me and helped with talking through the set up. Thanks to Baker for fielding my bonehead phone calls. Thanks to the Badwebberbwho community for giving sound advice, which I am under no obligation to follow, but an extra brain or two comes in handy. Mostly, thanks to the bikes original owner, Dudley, of the greater Reno, Nevada area, he did all the hard work and smoothed over all the rough edges, I can't wait to take a trip out west and let him see the old girl again. (Message edited by Vecchio lupo on December 12, 2012) |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 08:30 am: |
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How much lower is the engine speed, say at 80mph as compared with the OEM 5speed? |
Buellish
| Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 12:47 pm: |
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Info on the Baker XL-6,click on Technical. http://bakerdrivetrain.com/xl6# |
Jayvee
| Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 03:19 pm: |
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It's about 500 rpm. |
Alfau
| Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 03:37 am: |
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http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/marriott/x1/#Trans A bit of info on baker 6 speed here. |
Pash
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 10:26 am: |
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Nice work Joe... See you next year! |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 12:58 pm: |
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Well Boys, sorry for the delay, I was able too get her out on a highway yesterday, she shifts just as before 1-5 and then once you climb to an indicated 80 mph at 3950-4000 RPM, you pop it up one more time into 6th gear and RPMs drop to an indicated 3350-3400 at 80 mph. I am completely satisfied with the cruising and will post one more time once I have found the time to get to some open road and hit 100 mph so I can report on rpm and smoothness. A new Baker XL-6 is a very expensive piece at $2,600.00 I was lucky enough to find a slightly used one for less than 1/2 of that and I believe it was money well spent. That said i would not have spent retail on a 13 year old bike. For the racers out there, if you install an XL-6 and reduce the primary drive to 883 gearing, you retain the stock 1:1 final drive ratio with a 12% increase in torque across the range. Later Boys |
Buellish
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 05:06 pm: |
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Good to hear you've got it up and running.Enjoy! |
Pash
| Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 09:52 am: |
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Coolio. Don't be encouraged to break the speed limit... |
Rex
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 01:21 pm: |
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My baker Six works great. rex |
Lakes
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:59 pm: |
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Good job & thanks for feedback, I would expect it to shift a lot betel than stock? I have a dyna 5 speed 01 that my friend went through the gearbox & also fitted baker bronze shift forks I use redline heavy shock proof gear oil in that,& I miss the way the dyna shifts so quick & smooth,wish my m2 could do that. I'm going to try redline MTL will see how that works with clutch & GB What oil does baker recommend u use I the 6 speed? |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 04:18 pm: |
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Be careful of gear oils you use you can ruin your clutch and or stator... |
Vecchio_lupo
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 09:52 pm: |
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I didn't see any special requirements in the instruction so I'm using H-D stock OEM natural for the first 500 miles then syn3. I'm going to call baker now and ask them. |