| Author | Message | ||
     Leethestud |
Just picked up a ridiculous deal on an 08 1125R with under 7k miles on her. Black with the dark blue frame and rims. All stock. I'm located in Virginia Beach VA and look forward to leveraging what seems to be an awesome resource! Some things that I want to ask right off the bat... 1.) Clutch has good pressure but doesn't engage until it is like 90% extended. Seems odd... is that normal? Takes some getting used to, seems like 90% of the action is wasted and then ENGAGE. 2. it's got just shy of 7k miles on her and I know ZIP about it's service history. What do you recommend? Should I be concerned about coolant or anything like that this early in life? Just oil and brake / clutch fluid? She runs well, starts a bit rough but big twins are hell on batteries, correct? Thanks dudes! | ||
| Kevmean |
The clutch action is normal and one of the first things i noticed when i bought my CR new ..............it improves slightly and also gets lighter if you fit the Oberon clutch slave cylinder when your original finally leaks (and it will at some point) | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Mine fires off like a cannon. Might need an air filter change or a new battery. TPS reset couldn't hurt. Id check the coolant level but I would definately change it before winter hits. You never know for certain unless you put the right stuff in yourself. Clutch engagement sounds about right to me. You can adjust the clutch lever itself to better suit you. I moved mine as close to the bar as possible. I just have to barely touch it when speed shifting. Look in the clutch and brake resevoir inspection window to see how dark the fluid is and that will give you some idea. Id also monitor the volt gauge. If you see erratic spikes or dips replacing the voltage regulator relay (providing yours has the upgrade) may solve it. If not start reading on the stator rotor section of the forum. Check the bolts on the engine covers (and all bolts for that matter) mine have a tendncey to vibrate out a bit and leak oil. If you catch them in time re torque will solve the issue before a gasket tears. Enjoy! | ||
| Sprintst |
Welcome to the board. I think you'll grow to love the bike, I did love my 08 so much I replaced it with a 09 when I totaled it the bikes have a few issues, like most, but you can work through them | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Oh I just realized yours is an 08...you probably wont have the same electrical issues as the 09 so disregard that. | ||
| Oldog |
Fig the 08 does not have the relay, and does not need it. Its original cluster does not display voltage in driving modes. Some had a parasitic drain issue... Stud, fluid levels, check the quality and condition of the coolant. We presume that you inspected it carefully before purchase. a couple of things, The charging systems were said to be weak and the clutch slave cylinder was prone to failure. On some the instrument clusters were replaced with newer ones IF you have the updated cluster it shows gear position-and voltage If not try and make it a habit to use the handle bar kill switch-then the key for shutdown. its a good idea to let the engine warm up with out touching the throttle, this helps prevent fowled plugs many are running about 3 quarts of oil in their engines, and BTW WELCOME! | ||
| Leethestud |
Heck yeah thanks dudes! Lets see, to help clarify some things that may/may not be applicable to my bike... Cluster appears original. No voltage reading on the dash or gear indicator (would be cool on a 6 speed bike...) Battery light is on the dash, even when the bike is running. I figure batteries are expendable and this one is, I believe, original to the bike, so 4 years old. I was going to remove it and take it up for a charging / load testing but I can't figure out how to get the mother ^%*^%& thing out!!! Haha this bike is an engineering marvel but it looks like I will have to tear the rear end apart to remove the battery... good going EBR. Maybe I'll blame harley... | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Check all coolants and replace them all anyway. That includes the clutch lever fluid. Engaging towards the end of travel sounds like it's low. REplace your Instrument Cluster w/'09 model. The OEM '08 clusters had a habit of draining batteries. If your battery light is on all the time, you can bet your battery level is low. If you end up trickle charging it up back to life, yet it drains after the bike sits for a week unused, you can bet it's the instrument cluster. Use the rear brake. Use it all the time. If you don't, it will probably seize. keep your wheels clean. If you don't, the satin finish on them will absorb road grime/brake dust and then settle. Wash at least once a month and coat the wheels with a good exterior finish coating from McGuire's or similar. Ride it. Don't let it sit. Finally, have your dealer check the VIN number to make sure all 2008 specific recalls were done. I can think of the kickstand recall and ECM reflash. Or just put an Erik Buell Racing ECM in it and get it done right! Welcome! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Welcome...near the bottom of the forum is a "New Owner's" thread- try and read all of the posts and take notes!( owning a 1125 requires you do your homework!) a) battery... if you can afford it buy a Shorai Li-Ion b) with the seat off check the voltage regulator mounting - it uses the sub frame for a heat sink - the two nuts gotta be tight c) while you're in there check the big grey connector with the yellow wires coming out of it make sure there is no evidence of corrosion or overheating...that's where the charging voltage comes from and goes to the VR... d) IMO performance upgrade - buy the "race" module for the bike from EBR...if you have $$$s burning holes in your pocket and the neighbors don't mind the noise... buy an aftermarket exhaust - BUT make sure there is an EBR "race ECU" to support it - there is a very good exhaust comparison on Al's site: http://www.americansportbike.com/ e) torque is addicting ride safe - have fun! | ||
| Sprintst |
americansportbike has touch up paint for the blue, blends great | ||
| Leethestud |
Charged and load tested the battery. I think the dash just drained it before I learned the kill switch trick. Rode a hard 120 miles of backroads and was out of clutch fluid by the end of the ride. It was dripping from the bottom of the clutch cover on the engine. Looks like I will be buying and installing the $100 kit online. Looks easy enough. clutch "weep" that's a funny word for leak. Another issue that I have realized is that the bolts holding the rear drive pulley to the wheel don't appear to be threaded in far enough, although they are damn tight. There is no apparent play in the pulley. It feels secure. It handled without issue but it doesn't exactly look "legit". My friend riding behind me said it looked like it may be bent a little. Any experience on this? Is this normal? I saw that I can get a pulley on fleabay for $50 so I'll replace it if I have to. Thanks. (Message edited by leethestud on October 22, 2012) (Message edited by leethestud on October 22, 2012) | ||
| Sl33py |
Welcome Lee! Post up pics of your bike. Maybe also post pics of your drive pulley - see what the experts think before you try to replace it. If you place it flat and measure w/ a straightedge is it really out of line (higher on one side)? Question for everyone - if he replaces the IC w/ an 09 model (to fix battery drain and get gear indicator) does he need anything else done? Not sure how the ECM and IC mate up and if you need them matched by HD? GL! rob | ||
| Rogue_biker |
They normally program the IC using the old cluster to download the info (mileage). Good luck with that at the dealership. I say swap it and let the mileage fall back to zero instead of asking the dealership. Unless they know exactly what they're doing..... | ||
| Leethestud |
so far, remembering to hit the kill switch before shutting down is much less of a pain in the ass than buying / swapping a dash. Maybe my opinion will change in the future. My main concerns now are clutch and pulley. I'll get some pics up of that pulley situation this evening. Thanks. | ||
| Sl33py |
is the IC swap process covered in the Electrical diagnostic manual (99949-09Y)? | ||
| Spectrum |
It is discussed on page 4-6 of the 08 ED manual (99949-08Y). I have swapped mine out with the 09 cluster. Just remove and unplug the old cluster and plug in the new one. After that turn on and you will get a 30 minute count down on the display. I put my bike on a charger for the 30 minutes so the battery didn't die. Note it has to be a new IC! In other words you can't swap with a used one. The ECM and IC are married so that data from one can update the other. In other words mileage will be updated in the new IC from the ECM. Not sure if you can put a used one and still have the bike work but just without the data being updated. Someone here has posted on this, I just can't remember the outcome. (Message edited by spectrum on October 22, 2012) | ||
| Nvbuell |
I have an 08 and have not had any issues with the clutch weep or the IC. I am glad about that. I am still considering the upgrade though, just to be on the safe side of things. Maybe just wait till it develops.... | ||
| Leethestud |
ok, so... went to take some pics of the bolts holding on the rear pulley, and I saw that "no fricking way this does not look right" So... I took the tension off of the belt and then the pulley warbled both direction because the damn bolts had almost backed themselves all the way out! WOW I can't believe I rode 120 miles of backcountry like that on sunday. The horrors of buying a used bike I suppose . Well, I went up the the hardware store, got myself 99 sizes of star drive bits (better safe than sorry!)and went to town on every bolt head I could access. Only remaining issue is clutch weep and I have decided to go ahead and order the part from EBR. Sleepy thanks for the link to the manuals. I have been doing a bit of research and found a great series of youtube videos on the clutch puck replacement as well. This bike will be mechanically sound by the end of the week but I can ride it comfortably with a spare bottle of dot 4 and a Phillips head screwdriver. | ||
| Sl33py |
Lee - hehehe sounds like you were lucky! Remember to check the threads on the bolts and maybe use some blue loctite. Torque specs should be in the manual also. Glad they helped (thx to Kruizen for original link!). was thinking of tearing into mine at some point when mine finally leaks - do you have a link to the video you found on youtube for clutch kit replacement? Or was it just the puck? I've done that and it's pretty easy - flat heat screwdriver is all you need! GL! rob | ||
| Leethestud |
Sleepy, this is the link the to the video. There are a few others on the same topic on the youtube side bar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks Here is the part that I'm about to order http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html As an engineer, I'm the worst type of DIY mechanic. My mind often tries to cash checks that my mechanical abilities can't cash. Hope this goes as planned... thanks, I hope you don't get 'the drip' | ||
| X1brett |
Be careful to not over tighten the bleeder valve when bleeding the clutch. I stripped the threads of the case a bit and the bleeder "wept" for several days. Thankfully it sealed itself up. I'd also recommend having a sturdy c-clip removal tool or the c-clip will be stubborn. That is a very helpful video. | ||
| Kruizen |
That C-clip was a BITCH!! thrashed it, new ones at Fastenal for 1.50 a pack. I put in a 2" one, I think a 1-7/8 would have worked. Fastenal also had better internal c-clip pliers than auto-zone. |
