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Author Message   Rfp52 Posted on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 07:16 pm:        The side stand on the 2010 XB12X is completely different than my earlier Ulys. It also made the bike stand almost upright. After I lowered the Bike 1" it was completely upright so I decided to cut down the stand. The first time I took it off, cut it down 1" and put it back. This wasn't enough. The second time I took it off again, cut almost another inch out, welded it back up and.......oops Even though I had scribed it, the foot was pointed in the wrong direction. It was pointed back enough to almost make it roll off the stand when it was down. Off again, cut the foot off, welded it AGAIN, and this time....perfect. The lean angle was the same as my BMW and the foot sat perfectly on the floor.....but All this cutting moved the foot of the stand under the foot peg. It was almost impossible to get it down from the seat. With bigger boots...no way. Off AGAIN and I welded a tab in the middle so I could lower it easily with my heel. I love it when a one hour job takes all d*mn day.   Eaglerider Posted on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 11:52 pm:        I replaced it with a XT stand. The XT stand is the same length as the X, except the mounting place to the engine is at a steeper angle, putting the stand close to horizonal.   Reepicheep Posted on Saturday, September 15, 2012 - 09:22 am:        LOL Eagle. Been there done that. And for the record, don't use oxy acyt to re-weld a broken tab back onto the side stand while said bike is on the side stand and you are laying on the ground underneath it holding said welder. The heat affected zone is bigger than you think. And hot steel gets *really* ductile. Makes for some exciting welding....   Rfp52 Posted on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 10:47 pm:        The cutting and welding part is easy and free. It is the on and off part that is a PITA.   Jessemc Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 05:47 pm:        Rfp52: The cutting and welding part is easy and free. It is the on and off part that is a PITA. 'Ain't that the truth! I removed the muffler yesterday to replace the loosened-up bolts on the side stand mounting plate. The rear strap bolts were about 0.25" from the back of the idler pulley, so I had to back them out 30-40 degrees at a time with a short open-ended wrench angled in through the idler pulley cutouts, until they were loose enough to rotate the straps outwards and get in a socket and extension. Then, even after spraying with PB Blaster, the nut on the Torca clamp t-bolt creaked and groaned its way out five or six turns before it sheared. Word to the wise: have a spare Torca clamp on hand before you remove the muffler! I've got two coming in the mail.   Teeps Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 06:04 pm:        Jessemc Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - the nut on the Torca clamp t-bolt creaked and groaned its way out five or six turns before it sheared. Well that's not good. Anti-seize on those threads goes a long way.   Jessemc Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 06:15 pm:        Yep, I won't skimp on the ant-seize! I wonder, though, how much the bolt is weakened over time by the heat cycling. This is the first time off in over 20K.

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