| Author | Message | ||
     Yan |
Planning on changing spark plugs for the first time (first time for me that is) on my X and my wife's XT (they are both approaching 20k miles). Done some reading and people say the job is a lot easier with a Wire Puller - which one would you recommend? Thanks! P.S. Seen someone recommending this - http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-51250-Spark-Plug-Puller/dp/B0002STS4E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1279411319&sr=8-9 - is it a good choice? (Message edited by Yan on August 12, 2012) | ||
| Uly_man |
If you have no running or fuel problems I would leave them. Take the front on off to see how the electrode is. The plugs last real well. Wire puller no. | ||
| Yan |
Thanks Uly_man, I will start off with the front ones then (I reckon the rear ones are a real PIA to get to?). How long do they last though? I am also concerned that the longer you leave them in the harder it is to remove them later on, not even sure if the previous owners bothered to put anti-seize on the plugs before putting them in. | ||
| Uly_man |
It tends to be carbon on the end of the plug that makes them harder to pull. Back them out easy and slow if that is the case. The rear one is harder to re-fit because of access. Just make sure you do not cross thread it. Remember it is a alloy head. As long as you have an electrode left it should be fine but you may need to re-set the gap. | ||
| Yan |
Thanks, the gap is 0.035", right? I already bought a foot of 3/8" fuel line to thread the plug in and avoid cross threading. What kind of crowfoot adapter is better to properly torque the front plug? | ||
| Uly_man |
I just use a plug socket and a swivel joint myself. I do not torque them either. Never have on anything just hand tight plus a quarter turn. Just me though. You sound like you know what your doing so it should be fine. | ||
| Bpt |
I use the rubber hose trick to install the rear plug. Impossible to cross thread using a hose. 3/8 inch fits the insulator snug enough to turn and then slip when tight. | ||
| Nobuell |
I went to a Sears tool store and picked up the puller. I recommend replacing the wires with new ones from Magnecore. They make a set specifically for your bike. I used the 8.5 mm versions, part # 2557 Give them a call and they will fix you right up. Great wires by the way. http://www.magnecor.com | ||
| Husky |
Remember to use anti-seize on the plug threads | ||
| Razz |
I just did mine and made a plug wire puller from heavy coathangerwire.My old plugs had no anti seize and came out fine.NGK plugs have thread plating to avoid seizing.Although a lot of people suggest it anti seize compound apparently interferes with heat transfer from the plug to the head.New plugs are easy to torque go finger tight. Then with a wrench you will feel constant resistance while the washer is being crushed.When you feel it get harder you are done .About 12-18 ft-lbs (Message edited by Razz on August 12, 2012) (Message edited by Razz on August 12, 2012) | ||
| Xbimmer |
I pop them off from below. Remove the scoop, push the boots up off the plugs from below with a long thin flat blade screwdriver, then place the tip of same screwdriver against the spring clip. Tap the screwdriver upwards with my palm and off they come, no drama. Putting them back on just as easy, slight push on the spring clip with the blade. Put some dielectric grease in the boot and slide it down. And yes silver antiseize with a piece of fuel hose to start the rear plug. No issues past 84K but an overhaul is coming up so I may TimeSert the heads. | ||
| Jcbikes |
+1 what Xbimmer said. I do it exactly that way too. Swivel socket for the rear. Only have to take off the outer airbox cover. | ||
| Yan |
I've always used graphite based anti-seize on spark plugs. Is the silver based one better? | ||
| Tootal |
It's about the temperature rating of the anti-seize. Nickel and Moly are rated high temp as are others. Check the rating on the side of the can. It should be good for 400 degrees or higher. Your engine hopefully never gets that hot but plugs get pretty close! |
