| Author | Message | ||
     Weecorey |
Anyone know where you can buy a stainless fastener kit for an XT, I see the engine kit on ebay but would like to chance almost everything that isn't HT. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't think a "kit" exists...gotta do it bolt by bolt. | ||
| Weecorey |
wow, that would be good fun! | ||
| Nillaice |
be warned: stainless and aluminum will corrode to eachother and stainless steel is a weaker metal than the OEM zinc plated fasterners. i have sheared a stainless stud in the front jug. i used stainless cuz it was what i had handy. it was not fun. YMMV | ||
| Novice_bueller |
Here is a link to a good basic article on fasteners, the materials and corrosion resistance. http://www.designnotes.com/companion/manual-1.html | ||
| Uly_man |
Weecorey. You can get kits but I would not bother. They are only for the engine and a "half set", which are for the lower cases, is about £25 and a full set is about £48. They are not metric, UNC I think, so you will need the tools to fit them as well. Also the engine fasteners have probably been put in with that nasty locking fluid they use on this bike. Sometimes the bolts get stiffer as you are taking them out and it will break the bolt head off if you force them? I have had it happen and it is real bad news. The OEM fasteners are coated and I have seen no rust if that is what you are thinking about. A couple of other tips, if you do not know them, if it is of any help. I find they work good, are cheap, easy to do and proven by my own time working/runing the Uly. Put a cable tie on the top of the clutch adjuster boot to stop water getting into the tranny oil. Put a second or dome nut on the front exhaust header nuts. The exposed threads rust and makes it hard to get the ring off if the seals go. You can end up pulling out the stud or worse shearing it off. The seals are cheap enough and easy to change out. Change out all the brake pads to a sintered type, about £50, from EBC and the like. Makes the braking MUCH better as will a front brake fluid flush at about 10k miles. £10. Change the engine oil and filter every 2.5k. About £20 and keeps the engine sweet. If you do not like the front dive on breaking add 10ml of heavy synthetic oil to each fork and re adjust the compression to suit your ride. About £10. Do the "high beam on" with low beam mod. The easy way is the connector in the front cowl. And a HID system on both lights works great and saves power. About £30. Bung up the front aux plug core to stop water getting into it and rusting out the contacts. Just make a better seal is all. Fit a Stebel Nautilus air horn. About £30. Add a few more holes to the air box cover. Use a 20mm hole saw. The breather mod works, even on a 2010 bike, great and if you have a cleanable air filter £35, which is also better, just move them to the other side of the air filter. You should notice the bike runs/idles better straight away. Parts £5. The comfort kit and ECM upgrade flash works well. File off any paint on the sub frame earth mounting point. Most of which I think MUST be done, makes the bike run/feel MUCH better/safer and apart from the comfort kit/ECM flash is only about £200 in parts and a little time to do is very cheap. | ||
| Weecorey |
Thanks for that Uly_man Was thinking of the HID lights, would really like both lights lit for high and low beam but dont know if thats possible? The bike already runs both lights on high beam. | ||
| Thumpthump |
I would do Titanium. Wont corrode and will give you an extra 30 horse power.  | ||
| Cmgaviao |
I got 33 actually from my titanium kit |
