| Author | Message | ||
     Ironslede68 |
got to work this evening, had to move my bike about half way through the shift. turned the key on and everything came on. pump primed. hit the start button, loud click and everything went away. no lights on the dash, it's like the key was turned back off. i thought fuse but none where popped and it will come on with the key but when you press the starter it does the same thing. i haven't had this bike very long, and don't have a service manual to go to yet so i'm asking here. if you've run into this or know where i should be looking for a problem i would appreciate any help i get. thanks | ||
| Jhallgren |
Check to make sure your battery cables are tight. Sounds like a loose connection at the battery. | ||
| H2opatrol |
I have had a similar problem in the past and it was a ground issue. I would start by checking and cleaning ground points near the fuse box. | ||
| Etennuly |
Yep! Battery cables will come loose. If yours does not have them, it is best to put in a set of star washers. The bolts are a bit too long and can bottom out just as they tighten up, feels tight, but not enough. Mine have worked loose more than once. Tighten them up and all is good again. The best test I have found is to grip the cables with your fingers, if you can force them to move at all, they are not tight enough. Try not to strip the nuts though. | ||
| Murf2 |
Didn't we already fix this on Advrider? You'll have to wait until you get the right battery hooked up & then see if you fried anything. The terminals on batteries are marked, you should check before you hook them up. Sorry for all the trouble your having. Just take your time & be careful. Good luck, Murf | ||
| Jphish |
After checking usual suspects (grounds, relays, fuses) & insuring post clamps are tight...ask yourself, "how old is the battery" ? I had similar problem (tho intermittent) ended up a 3 yr old battery was toast. New "Big Crank" solved the problem. And...much easier than taking on the splice in the harness. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
Battery connections! Been there, done that a couple times now. Tighten up the battery connections and go for a ride. | ||
| Ironslede68 |
nevermind, brand new battery, and you can get it cheap right now. pos | ||
| Ironslede68 |
GOT THE RIGHT BATTERY, AND IT'S GOOD, AND IT'S TIGHT. murf, thanks for all the help. i think i have it strait but now the actual starter button is broken, i'm just tired, it's like i'm trying to keep an old triumph going or something. i enjoyed the bike the first week i had it, then it just layed down. not so sure it didn't have problems when i got it. | ||
| Ironslede68 |
anybody know where a wiring diagram could be found? | ||
| Etennuly |
Look in the wire bundle in the steering neck area on the left side. Unwrap the wire bundle, look for a single red wire from the bike side that has a triple splice to the headlight side. The splice is a crimp unit that has wax in it. It supplies the power to and from the bars. A wire can break inside the crimp that will look and feel fine. This was a bad place to have a splice splitter end up, with all of the movement that is required. There is also a triple splice for the right turn signal wire. I spliced a single red wire up to the head light area. I replaced the triple splice up there where there was no flexing and plenty of room. I did the same with that turn signal wire. Now there are four less wires in that bundle that must be able to flex and slide. It takes about an hour and a half to do this repair. There may be other things to be done at some point. If this is enough to make you give up on the '06 Ulysses.....you have not ridden it enough yet. Fix this and go out to lay this thing into some corners..... it is worth it! | ||
| Ironslede68 |
thanks for the tip Etennuly. appreciated | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and since you just got it, make sure you've got the suspension adjusted properly. Difference between a Buick, and an Ariel. Get it wrong, you'll hate it. Get it right...you won't even consider anything else. | ||
| Ironslede68 |
i don't think it's just right, for me anyway. but i was still very impressed with the handling. if it gets any better i don't know if i could stand it. | ||
| Ironslede68 |
found a very similar issue with the search. went out and checked my relays again. this time i read continuity across the coils on the relay, two of them read about 80 omhs, the other two where 1 omh. i had one that a friend of mine gave me so i read it, 80 omhs. put it in the box, didn't have one for the aux but the good news is no blown fuses and it cranked right up. man i hate electrical issues but i got to say that it feels way good to get it fixxed when it takes awhile. thanks for all the help, i couldn't have run this down without you guys. i did burn up my starter switch on the handle bars though. i may just get a momentary switch until i can find a factory replacement, any ideas on that would be great too. i have to say that i think now that all i had was a bad battery to start with and when the new one was put in backwards it created the other issues. once again i'd like to thank you all that gave suggestions and i hope i can help out in some way in the future. (Message edited by ironslede68 on August 04, 2012) | ||
| Ratbuell |
For a factory starter switch, find someone who installed the heated grip switch housing on their bike and has the original they want to get rid of... |
