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Bgbrd
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 07:31 pm: |
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I'm in the process of getting my 98 S3T back together. Before I install the front motor mount to the head does anyone think it would be a good idea to mill the faces true and square just in case the metal may have pulled around the bolt holes? I might very slightly chamfer the bolt holes with a countersink also. what do you think? will be using new billet motor mount with updated front isolator with bolt hole in mount sleeved to fit the new smaller bolt. |
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Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 08:54 pm: |
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The matting surface is IMPORTANT !!! (Message edited by buellistic on July 17, 2012) |
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Screamer
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 11:31 pm: |
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After removing material from the front mount, confirm that the bolts going in to the head (through the mount) have not become too long and bottom out before reaching proper clamp load. Improper clamp load can lead to broken bolts, mounts or heads. |
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Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 11:52 pm: |
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polish it, other than that leave it alone. |
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Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 09:21 am: |
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Screamer: You could not have said it any plainer than that !!! "AND" that is why when "i" installed my front motor mount/isolator it has yet to break !!! |
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Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 10:25 am: |
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BgBrd yes faces are critical that they must be flat, as stated above by screamer check that you have proper clamp load on the new mount, If you dont the motor is hanging by the bolts and you get to do it over. good luck |
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Jayvee
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 01:49 pm: |
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Speaking metaphysically (?) is the center bolt at the top of the mounting bracket the bolt the motor is hanging by? I hope it's a Grade 8 or 12 (whatever) that's really strong, and bendy more than breaky. |
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Bgbrd
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 01:54 pm: |
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I only plan to remove .010" on the head surfaces. A light pass on the mill to leave a smooth surface for maximum clamp load. That is a good idea to check bolt length to prevent bottoming out. |
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Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 03:50 pm: |
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As "i" have always said, PROPER ASSEMBLY IS THE ANSWER !!! |
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Hybridmomentspass
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 07:01 pm: |
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Jayvee - I cant recall right now what the bolts are, but they are not your typical hardware store item. I had to order all of my mounting bolts online. They say something like 'f911' or something on them. Thats on the front two up top and the rear four by the swingarm block |
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Bgbrd
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 09:42 pm: |
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I will be using new OEM Bolts torqued to factory specs with red loctite on the threads and antisieze on bolt heads and washers and absolutely nothing between motor mount and head. And yes they do have f911 on them. I don't know what grade they are. |
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Jramsey
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 09:55 pm: |
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http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp? txtsearchParamCat=73 |
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Bluzm2
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 11:27 pm: |
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Make sure the face of the mounting bosses on the head are in the same plane. Same for the motor mount. |
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Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 11:56 pm: |
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"RED LOCTITE" big mistake !!! "i" use copper anti size compound only which works for me ... (Message edited by buellistic on July 18, 2012) |