| Author | Message | ||
     Hogs |
Well I think I`m going to order up a air box and take out the Drill give it a spin ,As far as I `ve been told no tps reset needed, so what do you have to lose the price of a box.....Seems to work good on the 9`s ,one wd. think the 12`s wd. love more air as well ...YEah if I get my hands on a cheap cover Might play with some scoops as well, Like to be able to get a Clear outer cover to see all within ..I think that wd. be too cool.. Let ya know what I find out with regards to the drilling ..but hard to tell really no dyno... Should be a difference in the intake sound I wd. think... | ||
| Odie |
I think the holes in the lower box will let more heat from the motor into the air around the filter when we really want to keep it cool, hence the heat reflecting blanket material......... | ||
| Trenchtractor |
Yeah, check out my comments in the Velocity Stack Challenge about my swiss cheesed A/B. Or to sum up, my 12: 1. Revs better. 2. Breaths better. 3. Is more aggressive. 4. Back of the A/B gets hot. I plan to: 1. Butcher the lid to make a "filter lid" and do away with the A/B. 2. Play with the position of the IAT sensor. 3. Insulate the A/B bottom to reduce temp. 4. Either make a fibre glass A/B cover with scoops or fit some sort of scoop arrangement to the factory one. I didn't have the TPS done. I am using the stock muffler, temporarily. I have the race air cleaner. I use the stock ECM. I am happy with my progress, however slow, but my decissions are WELL INFORMED... Are yours?? Do your own research and be responsible for the mods you make. | ||
| Hogs |
Went to the dealer today and order another air box for my 12, should be here next week. Will drill it full of holes all in the right places and see what sound, and any seat of the pants feeling I might get...50.00 bucks if one got a 1 hp/torque gain that would be cheap power....:-))Then I will try Cutting and installing a scoop or two on top of the Outer cover for some ram air effect see what happeneds there >...Any input on this guys????its all on a 12 btw... | ||
| Odie |
I wait with baited breath........I'm looking for the pic of the one I spotted a while back with the intakes on the airbox cover. Will post here when I find it.....Odie | ||
| Hogs |
Yes odie post it I seem to remember that one as well looked like to small openings like 1" by 4" if i remember right... I might just make one running from BUell to Buell decal be nice to have it on a flap sort of deal with some fine screening maybe....Liked those mirrors by the way and the price was right :-)) | ||
| Odie |
Hogs, these are the only two I could find but there is another one that I'm talking about. I'll keeplooking.........Odie  | ||
| Odie |
Here's the other one.......  | ||
| Hogs |
Yeah something to think about there, the white and blue one wd. be too easy, But then again we all need something different than whats out there allready...the red one is one of them hyper air cleaners or something NOt sure why but never did like them on the big twins so not sold on them for my Muell :-) Thanks for finding them Odie...This Surlyn product who knows all about that what bonds to it etc. Can one cut it and mate fiberglass, cloth and resin, etc.etc to it IF you prepare it right?? anyone know??? | ||
| Trenchtractor |
I'm considering using my stock one to make a mold for a fibreglass one... | ||
| Odie |
Trenchtractor has been reading my mind........ | ||
| Opto |
Just for a bit of lateral input I really don't think it matters if the air comes from the front, sides, bottom, or the back, considering that ram-air effect is negligible below 100mph. Also I find the idea of air warming up and lowering the bike's performance due to a decrease in density is really picking at straws. The air moves so fast through the airbox that with a hot lower airbox the temp rise would be tiny. If you had a racebike then it might be worth looking into for that last few HP. Might be worth looking into letting extra air enter from diagonally opposite the snorkel, near where Trench reported the hot area. I wouldn't expect a stock XB to be starving for air so much that it needs the full swiss cheese, but people such as yourselves posting above are doing the research and it has to start somewhere. Thanks all for the input, and don't take me too seriously if you don't agree. | ||
| Trenchtractor |
Have to agree about the amount of air a stock XB needs... If I had to do it again I wouldn't drill any holes at the right hand rear corner to prevent the warm air entering the air box at all. I am wondering how much air is getting through-to-where, though, since the outer cover and the air box lid are pretty close. That's why i drilled holes everywhere, "if it's too hard to predict where to put them then put them everywhere". Now I know to stay away from the RHR corner. Also, Jens has said that with the fast system you need to run the IAT sensor UNDER the blanket 'cos they get better performance with it under the blanket. I'm thinking about how the warmer air temp indication from next to the head will affect the AFV??? Would it compensate by richening the bike to prevent pinging (I think Opto and I know "not" to be the answer), or will it lean the mix out and improve performance?? Possibly leading to pinging??? So at the moment I am reluctant to move the AIT sensor. I think the cooler it thinks the air, the richer (or longer injector durtion) it'll run, and less likely to ping. | ||
| Hogs |
I`ll have to have another look but for now , where the air scoop is FActory , air enters there on route to air box AND some to cool rear cyl. Hmmm is it possible that on its way it picks up just SOME of the heat from the rear cyl. on its way to the air box???? | ||
| Hogs |
Also we talk about RAm air effect at 100 mph, Hmmm what about say 60mph, 75 mph,85 When one Hits that throttle and hits them speeds perhaps we do get more air that WE need with RAM air , then anyways ram air effect is only good at higher speeds anyways not needed around town speeds . Point is I guess ,one really don`t know and hard to prove unless perhaps on a dyno in a WIND tunnel or something, you say don`t put holes in rhc interesting have to look at that Thanks. Not sure how that would matter though at this point... | ||
| Timbo |
Hey guys, Last year I bought a D&D exhaust can but wasn't really impressed with it's performance compared to the Buell race can. While the D&D did make more torque in the mid-range it didn't make as much above 5K RPM. It also had a bigger dip before 3.5K RPM. That wasn't enough in the middle to justify loosing nearly 6 HP overall and 3 Ft Lbs of torque. So I put the race can back on and put the D&D on the shelf. Since that time the XB 12 lid with the nipple has come out, so I put that on but never put the bike back on the dyno. Then this thread started, with input from Glitch, Alex and others to ponder. It also caused me to go to Trojans web site and check out their dyno charts. After which I decided to drill out my 12 airbox and put the D&D back on. I drilled 42 3/4 inch holes, focusing most of them towards the front and right side of the airbox where the lid is closest to the air filter, as can be seen in the next two photos.   Then I took the bike back to Bennetts where I dyno'ed it last time. Dyno run #049 (blue lines) was done last September with race ECM, Race air filter, stock 9 lid (no holes) and D&D exhaust gave 67.4 HP and 59.1 TQ. Dyno run #087 (red lines) was done this morning with the only change being the 12 airbox lid w/holes, it gave 74.8 HP and 64.1 TQ. A scan of the printout is below.  I was impressed with the results. A gain of 7.4 HP and 5 TQ almost all the way across the RPM range, with less of a dip early on. For a thirty dollar part and a little drilling. NICE. Then I did a run with the airbox and filter completely removed to see just how much the airbox and filter were still restricting flow. Below is the chart.  The gains were minimal at best, but more importantly, it demonstrated that the modifications to the airbox were sufficient enough so that air intake restriction is not an issue with it on. After making the dyno runs, Bob and I talked about what the race can might do with the modified 12 box. However I didn't have unlimited dyno time today so we decided to test it next Saturday. Stay tuned. Timbo  | ||
| Moboy516 |
great job Timbo! I'm doing the same thing tomorrow with my setup. I have everything the same except I run the drummer. | ||
| Hogs |
Yeah Timbo I`m in as well...I Order a another box for the mods... was thinking along the same lines NEver thought 3/4 inch holes though ..Hmmm why not.. Thanks | ||
| Opto |
Might be worth looking into letting extra air enter from diagonally opposite the snorkel, near where Trench reported the hot area. My bad Trench, didn't realise that bit got hot from the hot air entering the holes you drilled.doh! Very impressive results Timbo. That's a LOT of gain. | ||
| Hogs |
Timbo only change being the 12 airbox lid w/holes, A gain of 7.4 HP and 5 TQ this is on a XB9 ??? | ||
| Hogs |
How much gain would just the airbox Give I wonder ..since it was original a 9 box to the new 12 box is worth in itself how much???Then add the holes??? Hmmmm | ||
| Hogs |
The right rear where its always hot on the leg you mean don`t drill there??? RRC ? right rear corner..YEah I don`t think Timbo drilled there., Good point.. | ||
| Timbo |
Yes Hogs, I have an '03 XB9R. When I wrote "only change being the 12 airbox lid w/holes" I didn't mean that was the only mod, I was refering to the previous run done last September. So a more complete decription of the run with higher numbers would be... '03 XB9R w/race ECM, race air filter, 12 airbox lid (drilled) and D&D exhaust. Sorry if the previous post caused any confusion. Timbo | ||
| Hogs |
Hahah No pal thats what I thought you meant..Sorry I must have came across wrong..:-) | ||
| Hogs |
Timbo, The cover still gives GooD down and all around support to the air filter with all them Holes? | ||
| Opto |
Timbo, on the run with the higher numbers you also had the outer cover with "Buell" lettering fitted? I know its a kinda dumb question but I just got to ask it... | ||
| Hogs |
Yeah Good question Opto That could make a difference as well..Perhaps? | ||
| Timbo |
Hogs, Yes the box still has very good integrity. That is something I was checking after most every hole I drilled. If you notice, the 12 airbox has a reinforcing grid molded into it on the underside. I was careful to avoid those areas, so as not to weaken the structure. If you look closely at the pics, you can see the grid on the top side of the box (looks a little more shiney across the ribs). Opto, I ran it with the outer cover off. Perhaps next week I will be able to do it both ways to see if it makes any difference. BTW, not a dumb question. Timbo | ||
| Hogs |
Yeah kind of thought you wd. drill in between the ribs just couldn``t remember what it exactlly looked liked under there at this time..Hmmm interesting if there was a say Big difference thats where the scoop opened up on the outer cover wd. come into play..I can`t see it making a differnece especially when one is in motion with the added ram effect from the factory scoop in place feeding the drilled air box.. who knows.. | ||
| Hogs |
Timbo, With regards to the race can and D&D , I seem to find that the D&D blows the race can out of the water from 3500 up untill 6000 and from 6000-7000 I think they pull about the same. The race Can MAy have a slight leed from 6 - 7 but Unless your all out racing does that really matter? And the SOund Well in MY mind I just LOVE the D&D :-)Just got a LATUS might try that down the rd..... |
