| Author | Message | ||
     Jhuppdog |
I was using ECMspy last night for the first time and have a question. I was going through the step by step process according to the directions. I saved the stock EEPROM and fuel map and then began to reset the TPS. It said to turn the idle adjustment screw until it read 0%. My original idle adjustment read 5.9%. I began turning the adjustment screw and the reading on the computer was not change when I was turning it. I was expecting the reading on the computer screen to change as I turned the screw. I thought there was a problem and the idle adjustment knob was not broken so I removed the tank cover and slid the tank over so I could see where the adjustment was on the top of the intake. I adjusted the screw and could see everything working but it still was not changing the reading on the computer screen. After some trial and error I realized it only changed when I would go into the trouble codes screen and hit the "read" button. Did I install something incorrectly? I thought that ECMspy would give you a direct/live reading of the bike. Do you have to hit the "read" button in the trouble codes section every time you want to update the readings? It was late so I was unable to start the bike and see it running on ECMspy so everything I was doing was with the ignition on but the bike not running. Any help is greatly appreciated. | ||
| 01x1buell |
you have to make sure thatyou click on the keys in the top left to connect it again after you save d the maps. it will show up right on the ecmspy screen when you adjust the tps or open and close the throttle | ||
| Jhuppdog |
I tried hitting all the buttons across the top and nothing seemed to update the readings. The only thing was when I hit the "Read" button in the trouble codes section. Is there a particular button that I should be hitting to connect to the ECM and get live readings from the bike. I my be missing something. | ||
| Hansendo |
Make sure to have the kill switch on. Also make sure the COM port it connected with your cable. Go to communications then click autoconnect. | ||
| Alfau |
Which version of EcmSpy are you using? On the EcmSpy desktop choose View,select professional! | ||
| Jhuppdog |
I finally figured out what the problem was. Evidently I hit the button on the top left that looks like two keys that says online/offline. I clicked on it again and it started working properly. I am using version 1.12.26. I did figure out that I needed to be using professional in order to fetch and save the EEPROM. My next question is, I have a stock muffler on the bike and I upgraded the intake to the econowinder. If I install the X1 race map will I have any issues with this set up since I am not running an aftermarket exhaust? Thanks | ||
| Alfau |
Did you need to adjust your TPS,or was it ok ? Reason I ask is; that you need to keep an eye on "the need to adjust the tps". It can be a sign of wear when things need to be adjusted. Your bike will automatically tune itself to your new breather setup. You may not need the Race Map. Keep an eye on AFV,ideal is 100%. 110% means the mixture is lean. 90% means it's rich. The more free flowing air system can make it run a little lean, but the system can cope to a certain extent. All about watching AFV. Learn a little about that here:- http://cds.h-dnet.com/docent/cds/BUELL700/ref_content.htm#a4 (Message edited by alfau on May 28, 2012) | ||
| Alfau |
http://cds.h-dnet.com/docent/cds/BUELL700/ref_cont ent.htm#a4 | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Alfau, My TPS was pretty much spot on. I did reset it just to make sure I had everything set correctly. My AFV was at 115 so I reset that to 100. I am going to try and take it for a ride today to see how the bike performs with the changes. I would also like to see if the AFV changes. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
I took my bike for a 70+ mile ride yesterday and then hooked it back up to ECMspy when I got home. The AFV had gone back up to 111. Per the link that Alfau posted it looks like there could be multiple issues going on. Can anyone tell me where I should start? DO I need to change my fuel maps? I am running the stock fuel map. | ||
| Oldog |
IMO 1. Chek the plugs are the cylinders balanced ( both plugs same color indicating about same running mixture) ( rear normal, front rich / lean is not unheard of ) [ front lean is BAD ] If not. 2. Intake seals and Injector orings (air leak) 3. exhaust gaskets (air leak) 4. o2 condition and wiring / ground ( skewed o2) 5. Codes? detected 6. Static timing? 7. Battery condition and grounds... I just went thru a bout of this ( exhaust gaskets ) take your time and work carefuly watch the plugs... | ||
| Alfau |
My AFV was at 115 AFV of 111% is an improvement,no reason to panic. How is the motor running now? Could you feel any difference in power with the new noisy air filter? Read carefully,the section about running your engine in closed loop and open loop; this is how you help your bike tune itself. If you Give it heaps just before you get home,then check with EcmSpy you WILL get messed up readings. Even idling for a prolonged amount of time will affect EcmSpy readings and will change the color of the plugs,if you are using this as a guide. ( It is a good idea but you need to do it the correct way) It is very important to prevent exhaust leaks,particulally the rear ,since this is the one the whole system monitors. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Here is where we stand. 1. Removed the plugs and they both look similar. They have a little black carbon them around the base of the metal but the rest of the plug looks good. They are brand new NGK DPR8E. 2. Intake seals and injector o-rings. As far as I know ok. The only test I could find in the service manual was to mist water on the intake while it was running to see if it changed how the bike ran. I did this and the bike was not affected. 3. Exhaust gaskets. Gaskets are brand new. I took a wrench to them and got about a quarter turn per stud. 4. the o2 sensor is original. As far as I can tell everything with it looks ok. Not sure how to test it. 5. No codes are detected 6. Static Timing - my timing cover has never been off. It still has the rivets in it and unless necessary I would rather not get into drilling them out. 7. Battery - Battery is brand new HD battery and the grounds are good. I just had a charging system problem and during my testing I went through and cleaned all the grounds. The motor seems to be running fine. I really could not tell a difference in power versus the stock filter, but then again I only rode the bike for 30 miles prior to tearing it down to fix oil leaks and tune it up. I bought it Early March and it had oil leaking out of the front cylinder rocker box covers and the primary cover. I had a 2001 X1 back in 2002-2004 and that one had the race ecm, K&N filter and vance & hines exhaust and this one just does not seem to have the same power that one did. I could be wrong and it could just be me. I did have to turn down the idle because it was idling at 1500 when warm. During that 70 mile ride I did try to ride it as much as I could in the closed loop parameters as possible. I do live in the city so I did have to go through redlights and some traffic to get home from the country roads. I took the air cleaner cover off to try and diagnose the problems this evening and I can notice more noise coming from the snorkel tube. Almost like a paint shaker noise. Is this normal? | ||
| Alfau |
You will learn to distinguish between the noises of the engine. In EcmSpy, When you run diag test on injectors, listen to the noise the injectors make; This clicking noise is louder when the motor is running , but is a noise you need not worry about. Learn to trace every noise. You can hear the fuel pump running,valves dancing about and the pistons going up/down. Induction noise is quite loud from that type of set-up. Note:- Don't test the coils after fuel-pump/injector test.To prevent backfires,you test these first. The race set-up does boost the power a fair bit, but it also wears things out a lot faster too. I have noticed a lot of ppl mention reverting back to stock set-up to preserve their engine. I would monitor the engine for a while with EcmSpy and enjoy the ride. | ||
| Firemanjim |
So at115 and 111 AFV you have a lean area in "Learned Fuel" and bike is adding 15 or 11% more fuel to entire map. Not unusual with mods but not good for ideal running.You can see the area in your map and with a tuber it is indeed a small area. Try increasing those cells by 5 at a time and ride it to see how AFV responds.95-105 more normal AFV but 100 is the desired number. | ||
| Alfau |
When you adjusted your TPS your AFV improved by 4points. Adjusting TPS correctly is vitally important. Warning To prevent ECM EEPROM corruption, this operation should only be performed with a fully charged battery and ideally with the “Lights” fuse removed. Before you actually reset your TPS to zero, It is recommended a test of the TPS reset procedure is performed in order to confirm that the TPS reset is working properly. This is optional but may save some headaches if things don’t seem to be working right later. Hold the throttle in the 1/3 open position, and then execute a TPS reset with it held steady there. Close the throttle and go back to Overview mode. Slowly open the throttle. If the Throttle Position bar graph remains stationary until you cross the threshold position that you held the throttle at (i.e., 1/3 throttle) and only then starts climbing, THEN you know that ECMSpy is communicating correctly and that you have successfully set the TPS Note The easiest way to check if the throttle stop is no longer engaged is to turn the throttle grip to zero and force it there gently. If when you start to open it, you can feel it gently sticking, this means that the butterfly is wedging in the throttle body and you have achieved absolute closure Note When forcing the throttle closed so that it gently sticks as described above, note the TPS Voltage value each time. It should be within .01 volts each time you do this. If not, there is something wrong with the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Alfau, Is that a bad thing that my AFV improved by 4 points when I reset the TPS? I will try the testing the you have described tomorrow to and make sure everything is working correctly. | ||
| Alfau |
Not a bad thing,is a good thing! If it was improved by resetting TPS ??? Best to get TPS exactly right first. Then give the bike a chance to tune itself by riding within those learning parameters. Closed loop/open loop. The way you ride the bike directly affects Afv also. If you scooting about on the bike all the time,the bike would never get the chance to tune itself. Your ECM is adding fuel (AFV +11%) to correct the air fuel ratio. ( you have modified the breather, you couldn't expect 100% AFV) You can add fuel to the map to get it exactly 100%,but your ECM is already doing that for you. What you need to do is, Keep an eye out for any change in AFV. Let the bike settle. Start reading about Static timing, you need to get that exactly right also. |
