| Author | Message | ||
     Buewulf |
So I am trying to reset the TPS on my new EBR ECM, and it won't go to zero. Voltage gets to .63 and on't go further. It will increase and decrease with a turn of the screw, it just won't go lower than .63 volts. TPS reads 0 degrees at that value. I just tried this last week with my old ECm and had no issues. What gives? | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Throttle cables to tight? Just a thought. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
have you tried closing a bit forced the throttle? turn the handle bar to see if it makes any change. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
I think you just need to get it as far as it will go and then zero it. | ||
| Buewulf |
Throttle cable would be on the loose side if anything. About time for an adjustment. I could get it to go from .64 to .63 by wiggling the cable roughly. I took it another turn past that point and reset it. The bike started up OK. No time for a ride tonight. I'll have to see how it does this weekend. Thanks for the quick responses!!! | ||
| Pontlee77 |
also do the reset when engine is hot, temperature around 160C it's the best moment to do it. | ||
| Etennuly |
I seem to be the only one that I know of that has seen this as a problem; I had one that I set, engine warmed, followed the instructions and made it run worse. Then I realized there was a carbon build up on the edge of the throttle plate. It was not allowing the throttle to close all of the way in spite of twisting/forcing it back. I cleaned the throttle bore and plate, re-set the TPS and all was well | ||
| Uly_man |
Have you removed the air box and looked down through the throttle body to ensure that the valve is 100% closed. | ||
| Buewulf |
I didn't see any carbon, but I didn't run my finger along the inside of the valve, and either. It did start, and I did have to set the TPS value about a degree higher than usual to get my preferred idle. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't have my ecmspy stuff with me, but I seem to recall the V isn't required to go to 0. The process is to define 0% to the computer in terms of V. If 0.63V is truly a 0% butterfly position, hit "reset" so the computer knows that's it. | ||
| Xbimmer |
The sensor could be worn at the contact points with the shaft pin. When I tried to do mine the first time I tried all the suggestions above but there simply wasn't enough rotational movement left to allow adjustment. Opened up the elongated hole a bit and everything went OK after that. The procedure for that is somewhere here. This may also help: http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=30 (Message edited by xbimmer on May 18, 2012) | ||
| Uly_man |
Yes its what Ratbuell said. Its the whole idea of the TPS rest. | ||
| Uly_man |
Its a long time ago now but I seem to recall my ECM-SPY did not say exactly 0 on the TPS reset on a my 06 bike. If you have a smooth and stable idle thats the thing to have. I found with my 06 bike if you run a high idle past 1100 rpm you can get throttle "hang" back to idle. | ||
| Uly_man |
"my preferred idle". I am not sure you can have one on a XB. I tried on my 06 bike and it did not work. What idle speed do you want? | ||
| Buewulf |
Well I hope that is the case. I just assumed voltage reads 0 when closed. It always has before. The butterfly was tight against the body, though. I set the idle to 1250 to 1300. Works out better for me when I am stuck in stop and go. That is what I mean by preferred idle. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Up to 07, there is/was a threaded idle spped adjust cable/screw that allows you to set the idle speed where you want it. 1050 is spec; I like closer to 1100 because it cuts down on coughing in hot weather, and helps keep the oil circulating. Remember, the oil only circulates (and COOLS) your engine as fast as its revving. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I set the idle to 1250 to 1300. Works out better for me when I am stuck in stop and go. That is what I mean by preferred idle." The setting is 1050 and I found anything past 1150 a problem because it caused "hang" at around 2000 rpm then dropping to idle speed. At 1300rpm it is way to high on this bike. You are also adding 35% more heat to the engine in traffic which is not good on a 06 bike. Not being rude or anything but try this because it worked for me. Set the idle for 1100 rpm. Once the bike is hot it should drop back to that "off throttle". In traffic use revs and clutch slip control and rear brake if needed. This is normal bike control/balance you should use with any bike. But its you ride. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Treadmarks had a tutorial on how to reset the TPS device so that it would be properly put together. Once that is done then the TPS electronic Reset should be a breeze. Read this archived link. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/335587.html?1202706068 | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
This might even be better at explaining. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27 3568&page=2&highlight=tootal | ||
| Buewulf |
Well, I spent some time riding today, and all seems well. Thanks for the link EG. I did not perform that additional step on the TPS, so that may explain why I am not going to zero. I may give that a go next weekend and see, but for now, the bike is running great. I don't want to jinx myself, but apparently the ECM was my problem all along during my long saga of probing wires and testing sensors. I had suspected the ECM early on, but another member of this forum was kind enough to install it on his bike and ride around with the ECM for a week and never experienced a single hiccup. So I began pulling my hair out looking for broken and worn-through wires. At least I got to know the bike pretty well in the process. I'd like to put a good 200 - 300 miles on the Uly before I formerly claim victory, but I am very optimistic. Thanks for the input guys. If the Treadmarks method makes any difference, I'll update. | ||
| Buewulf |
Ulyman, I certainly don't consider your comment to be rude. I never experienced "idle hang" as you described except when my ECM started acting up a while back. I would set it at that speed because the idle was very lumpy below that. The hotter the weather, the more an issue it became. I had actually stalled the bike a couple of times in stop-and-go traffic before I raised the idle. And no, prior to that I could not tell you the last time I stalled a motorcycle or anything with a clutch for that matter. I should mention that 1250 was what it looked to be on the tach. When I look on ECMspy, it dances around the 1175 mark, so it clearly isn't as high as I thought. I must say that the new ECM is so much smoother and the throttle response so much better than before that I have now dialed down the idle to spec (1050). I can now actually purr away from a stop without sounding like a newbie. Nice. Oh, I also know all about raising my "gear ratio" with the clutch, dragging the rear etc. The gearing is stock and I use the bike off-road. Even on pavement, in slow traffic first is so tall that I rarely get to let the clutch all the way out when I pass through the slow sections of the commute. (Message edited by Buewulf on May 20, 2012) | ||
| Billy_bee |
I am sure this has been mentioned, but I am too lazy to read every post. So, at the risk of providing redundant info... Have to looked at the TB? Mine was rather gooey. So much so that I could not get the TPS to reset properly. I cleaned it out with brake clean sprayed onto a rag and sprayed some lube on the shaft. Bingo. I wrote a thread and took some pix but cannot find it right now... bb bb |
