| Author | Message | ||
     Db4570 |
Hi, guys. 2000 M2 Cyclone. This seems to be getting worse. Shifting from Neutral to 1st, I get a loud grinding and crunch that I feel right through my shifter foot. Same thing from 1st to 2nd. It goes into gear ok, maybe a little hard on these two shifts, but the noise is very worrisome. All the other gears shift fine. Clutch drags a lot when cold, and slightly when hot. Has been adjusted per the manual, and I have played with the cable adjustment. Clutch works fine except for this. Transmission seems to work fine otherwise. Stays in gear, no missed shifts unless I really pussy-foot it, no funny noises, although neutral is hard to find. I have adjusted primary chain per both the book and Buellistic. Has fresh HD trans fluid at the correct level. Could the clutch be the root of this? Or does the fact that it only happens on N-1 and 1-2 tell me something else? If I have to tackle the transmission, it's what I'll do. But any other suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks! David | ||
| Jim2 |
My first guess is shift pawl out of alignment. This caused improper rotation of the shift drum as your shift gears. It sounds like maybe the drum isn't rotating enough so the dogs grind against each other for a moment before finally grabbing and clunking into place. To check would require going into primary, and removing the clutch hub. If your going to do that you need to check the shifter drum pins to make sure they have not backed out and caused the drum plate to set cocked at an angle. The pawl alignment is outlined in the service manual. Somewhere on here I read a recommendation to use a slightly smaller (or was it slightly bigger?) drill bit for the pawl alignment than what the service manual specifies. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If your clutch drags, it may be just that. | ||
| Dannybuell |
sounds like you need a clutch. How many miles since last clutch? | ||
| Buell_bert |
Are you sure that little clip is not bad on the shifter? I know mine had really bad/weird shifting when the clip fell off and the pawl/arm got kind of ground up. | ||
| Buellistic |
Could be the SPRING PLATE(ie: grenade plate) ... If it has gone bad and you caught it before it gets too bad all you need to do is remove it, clean the clutch replacing the GRENADE PLATE will TWO STEEL/ONE FIBER with no new clutch required ... Want the up-date "INFO", just PM me and "i" will send "INFO" to you ... CHECK THE PINS IN THE SHIFTER DRUM, DETENT PLATE, and SHIFTER MECHANISUM ... | ||
| Db4570 |
Thanks for all the help, guys. The clutch initially seems to make the most sense, since it is obviously in need of attention. But I wonder if I have two situations, since it happens only on these two shifts. If it were the clutch you'd think it would happen on every shift. I also can't seem to work around it by trying to blip the throttle or match RPMs. Even if the clutch was totally trashed, you'd think you might get lucky and have the gears mesh correctly just once in a while. Maybe it doesn't work that way, like a car tranny. So once I get the side cover off, is all this stuff pretty much staring me in the face, ready for inspection? I'll have to check the knowledge base for clutch info, but any general suggestions for evaluating it, and what to replace it with if it needs it? Lafayette, a few months ago you send me a giant treasure trove of your bulletins, which I had to store in a separate email folder just to keep them organized. I'll bet your grenade plate bulletin is in there, but I'll email you if I need it. David | ||
| M2marc |
from neutral... if you just gently shift into first it will grind or clunk. I was told this was typical with most harleys and that you just need to be assertive, step on it and put it into first. blipping the throttle also helped trying to find neutral. | ||
| Db4570 |
I have tried every method of shifting, and it is the same no matter what. Blipping the throttle doesn't work. I'm not talking about a minor clunk here. It's a loud grinding/ratcheting noise. If I shift quickly, it's just as loud, but over a shorter duration. David | ||
| Jim2 |
After you open it up the clutch basket is staring you in the face. However, you may or may not be able to see rivet pieces from the grenade plate if they did let loose on you. You can remove the clutch pack and with a spring compressor (home-made or store bought) you can then open it up and see for sure. At that point you would want to have the replacement two-steel and one fiber clutch plates to replace anyway since you are in there. To get at the shift-pawn alignment, drum pins, and shift plate you would need to remove the clutch basket/main sprocket/primary chain as an assembly. This requires the clutch locking bar and a big breaker bar and big torque wrench to re-assemble. |
