| Author |
Message |
    
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Monday, January 16, 2012 - 06:45 pm: | 
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I got a head's up for you about those auto reset breakers:
I installed a 20A under my seat leading to my driving lights. Heat makes it trip easier than the rated current. If I stopped for gas at night, the driving lights would not light up until the bike has been on the road for a while.
Just make sure that circuit breaker is located in a cool dry place  |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2012 - 05:52 pm: |
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Djohnk, that's what I think about the conversion, glad you're satisfied too. How did you attach your VR?
Natexlh1000 I was more concerned with thermal weakening of the breaker over time which is why I stayed with the supplied MaxiFuse in my kit, since I can get the fuses for about a buck each where I work I have a few in the tool bag for spares.
In any case one less thing to concern myself with now on my short daily commutes. |
Djohnk
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2012 - 11:42 pm: |
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I am kind of embarrassed to say, but I attached it with heavy duty zip ties (it took about 1 minute). I wanted to get it installed quickly because I ride the bike every day and was worried what harm the fluctuating voltages might do to other components. Maybe later I will do a bang up job like you, but it is still working great ... so far my voltage indicator has been steady green
I also routed the wires a little different than you, I went up to the side of the VR and over the left side of the engine, then through the little hole where the metal part on the front of the seat goes through, didn't have to cut any holes. The only thing that took much time was soldering all the crimped connections. |
Nobuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 06:47 pm: |
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I just ordered one for myself as a winter project. It is the only winter project so far. Spring is not to far away. |
Nobuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 02:14 pm: |
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I received the new VR and I have to complement Jack for his very quick delivery. I underestimated the cable length and he fixed me right up with a new longer version. Great guy to work with.
In addition to the new VR, I intend to add an additional fuse panel since I currently have multiple connection to the battery for the battery tender, HID lights and cold weather gear connections. I am interested in getting a small four (4) circuit fuse block. Anybody know of one? Most that I have found have 8 circuits and are a little big. |
Raceautobody
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 02:35 pm: |
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http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ |
Nobuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 03:07 pm: |
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Raceautobody
Looks like the ticket. Thanks for the recommendation. |
Nipsey
| | Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 02:40 pm: |
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another option
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/P C-8/pc-8.html |
Nipsey
| | Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 02:41 pm: |
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and one more
http://www.centechwire.com/marketing/spotlight.htm l |
Luftkoph
| | Posted on Saturday, February 04, 2012 - 11:19 am: |
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another from centech
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/fb4.shtm l |
Ronmold
| | Posted on Saturday, February 04, 2012 - 01:20 pm: |
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The blocks are nice but I like using individual fuseholders like these with the mini blade type fuses;
http://www.elecdirect.com/product/e9fbc4d6-c3a1-4f 5e-bbc5-9a4325c70a09.aspx
They're small, easier to stash, can be put where you want and really, fuses just don't need to be checked that often. |
Schwara
| | Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 12:24 pm: |
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Would anyone be interested in putting together a kit for a setup like Xbimmer? I would definitely be interested. I don't know if I am adventuresome enough yet with electrical stuff to try this myself. I still have my list of mechanical projects to work on and those are enough of a leap for me at the moment, but I would still be interested in the upgrading the Uly with something like this ... once I'm past tax day. |
Merc16
| | Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 03:40 am: |
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I ordered one. |
Desert_bird
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2012 - 09:03 am: |
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Gentlemen,
Seems that the way everyone is routing this mosfet unit by replacing the factory lead to the battery with a dedicated line. Why is thing being done? Could one also keep the stock wiring and just splice in the connectors?
Stupid question perhaps, but from what I can see from the wiring diagram, the stock line from the VR out to the battery also goes to the fuel pump, ignition and several other places.
How is it possible to bypass the stock wiring from the VR to the battery without interrupting those other circuits?
Thanks in advance,
DB |
Merc16
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2012 - 09:52 am: |
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I second the above question. |
Desert_bird
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2012 - 12:23 pm: |
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Justin, obviously, I'm no electrician, but from what I understand from the Roadstercycle page, bypassing the stock wiring is to minimize total connections in the charging circuit, and reduce potential flash points for problems:
"I get a lot of calls and Emails about using your old harness that goes from the old R/R to the battery. My answer is don't use it! just unplug it and tape the end off so it can't touch any type of ground and ty rap somewhere safe. It will still get power from the battery side if there are other systems that use it in the bike. Use the new 10 gauge wire I send you to go from the new Mosfet regulator to the battery, put in a maxifuse the equivalent size of the one that was originally in your bike. The problem is that if you use your old harness any issues that are in that old harness, like bad connections, bad solder joints, bad grounds, etc will just defeat the purpose of upgrading your charging system. Lets do this clean with all new connections crimped and soldered and you will have a bullet proof charging system."
So I assume that one could just tie into the existing circuit if it were working well. Also, I prefer having less additonal wires running to and fro, especially hot wires that are taped off. Gets to be a drag routing all that stuff. I assume it's a tradeoff.
DB |
Djohnk
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2012 - 09:11 pm: |
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Don't worry about bypassing the old wiring, it works like a charm. You just cut all five wires to the old VR, then happily throw it in the trash can.
The two wires that go to the 77 connector you can tape off with electrical or silicon tape (or remove some of the old wiring, including the 77 connector if you want).
The three wires that go to the stator get connectors crimped on, you should solder all the connectors after crimping to assure a robust connection and plug them into the new VR (order doesn't matter).
You then just run positive and negative heavy gauge wires directly to the battery from the new VR. Be sure to put a fuse or circuit breaker on your positive wire close to the battery. Everything still works on the bike.
The Mosfet I bought came with all the connectors, I just purchased the heavy gauge wire for going to the battery. Some kits come more complete ... with circuit breakers and with the wiring for the battery, connectors soldered and assembled, but you pay more $$$ for that. If you are not electrically inclined, I would suggest the "Super MOSFET Kit" from here: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Re gulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm That website also has excellent instructions for installation. |
Ronmold
| | Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:48 am: |
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If one were to by-pass the factory VR hot wire, tape it off and run direct because of possible bad connections at splice points going to fuel pump, relays, etc., yes, you would have a solid charging system but those devices with the bad connection would still have problems. Best to find & repair those connections and at that point the factory wiring should be fine. Also wiring direct from VR to battery means ALL circuits are now powered through the 30A main fuse instead of powering off the VR when running above idle as it does stock, which should not be a problem though. |
Desert_bird
| | Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:24 am: |
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I run a volt meter and have also noticed fluctuating voltage readings with the stock set-up and when everything is working as it should.
In addition to running directly to the battery, the stock loom from the VR also feeds the main fuse to the ECM, fuel pump, key switch, cooling fan and ignition.
I'm wondering if the voltage fluctuation and intermittent reliability issues with OE setup have less to do with a funky VR (or other issues), than with simply changing the wiring scheme and hardwiring dedicated lines for the VR to the battery.
Given how little space there is for any additional wiring from front to back on the Uly, it would make sense to try and conserve room by piggybacking this way. But this setup could also be related to the Uly's many electrical gremlins. Is this piggybacking standard practice?
I wonder if the steady voltage readings and increased reliability that people have noticed from using the Mosfet unit could be replicated by just running dedicated VR lines with new OE parts. |
Glenn
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2013 - 08:22 am: |
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Hi Nobuell,
My voltage is acting up as evidenced by my "green to yellow" blinking LED. Could you tell me what length of wire you ordered the 2nd time please?
"Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 02:14 pm:
I received the new VR and I have to complement Jack for his very quick delivery. I underestimated the cable length and he fixed me right up with a new longer version. Great guy to work with.
In addition to the new VR, I intend to add an additional fuse panel since I currently have multiple connection to the battery for the battery tender, HID lights and cold weather gear connections. I am interested in getting a small four (4) circuit fuse block. Anybody know of one? Most that I have found have 8 circuits and are a little big." |
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