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Tin_man_2
| Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 09:59 pm: |
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I,m the guy that did the chain conversion that EZ posted about on Friday, I,m now a member here instead of just a lurker. Now then to clear up a point, I went to a chain to get a Hotter Gear ratio so of course I lost a bit of Top Speed, My 17T/67T chain gives me a 3:90 ratio as opposed to the stock 3:00 ratio. There is no Free Lunch,to gain a Hotter low gear you give up Top speed. EZ,I didn't lose power,I gained power, but in doing so of course I lost top end. Remember this is a Back Road Tiddler for me, I have no need for top speed. (Message edited by Tin Man 2 on January 28, 2012) |
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Tin_man_2
| Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 10:44 pm: |
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On buying this 06 Blast for a song recently I noticed that the bike had what I think is very long gearing. Does anyone else feel this way?? I do not understand why Buell would gear a beginners bike for the highway when using it for instruction courses. I did a fairly radical gearing change on the bike and it really brought this baby to life, much more enjoyable around town and on the back roads where I would think this bike is most at home... Most bikes and cars are geared this way also, My Buddy bought the new Camaro with the Big engine and a 6 speed and it still holds 1st to 40 or so and the rest of the box is so closely spaced as to be rediculous. A new BT Harley now has 6 gears, and 1st is still to high... When using a high Torque engine,4 or 5 gears are plenty, IF they are properly spaced. Heck, that is why the old Big Block cars ran a Wide Ratio 4 speed instead of a Close Ratio box like in the small block cars. Any Thoughts? |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 11:16 pm: |
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I think the idea of the Blast is to still be able to ride with all your friends on Buells and Harleys. It will also translate better when the rider "steps up" so a bigger bike. Too low a gear and it will readily pop wheelies: not confidence inspiring. I seem to run out of first gear pretty quick, so a lower 1st isnt an improvement. It would seem you prefer a low first gear. I can start off on my BT in second gear. A lower gearing would also make it more akin to a close ratio box, wouldnt it? I do wonder if your Blast isnt somewhat 'out of tune' or suffering from a running problem. FWIW: I never spend much time in first except when stuck in traffic. So, no, I dont see your point at all. The Blast doesnt seem any taller geared than any other bike I've owned. In fact, I cant recall many people wanting lower gearing, especially the ones riding Harleys. But welcome to Badweb. My guess is you'll be looking for some better tires, especially fronts, if you plan on doing a lot of 'dirt' riding. |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 11:36 pm: |
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Orlandoslug: My impression from your post is that you wont be happy with your Blast and even less with so an M2. It might have been best just to walk away from this one. Most Buells and Blasts will not shift like a rice burner. That might be your problem. If you dont shift with authority, you might just be missing the gear. I dont think I'd worry about damage. The repairs going to cost the same either way. They dont wear out dogs in 1000 miles, but the shift forks could have been bent from abuse. At 1000 miles the bike is not broken in yet. It may get better with time. What method did you adjust the primary chain? (if you did it per the manual-its too tight). I cant speak for the pawl adjustment but everybody whose done it seems very very happy with the results. I dont trust dealers as most of them have never been 'Blast friendly'. I would search out another reliable Blast rider in your area and have them ride your bike and you ride theirs. I think only then will you have a fair assessment of your Blast. Sometimes, when somebody is going to sell a vehicle and/or they know its already sold, they will subject it to great amounts of abuse (in the name of fun) since it wont be their problem. I dont remember the whole story of how you bought it, but leaving a Blast to idle unattended has very often resulted in it falling over with the resulting cosmetic damage you have. I think it would have been the 'perfect storm' to bend the shift forks, but..... |
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Tin_man_2
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 08:40 am: |
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Gearheaderico, I guess you may be correct, I just like a lower 1st gear. The Blast is my back road, fire trail bike so it will rarely see 60 mph. I also put the 883 gearing in my Rubber Mount XL, I really like using the gearbox instead of slipping the clutch. Of course I also put a small front sprocket on my Iron head Side Hack rig for obvious reasons. My 05 BT was overgeared from the factory, why have a 5 speed if the bike will pull 50 in 1st gear?? Some Metric Sportbikes will do 90 in 1st, part of this is due to a flexible engine, but its just crazy. Its all good I guess, to each his own. And yes my little Blast runs fine, thanks to the jet info I got off this Forum, so Thanks. |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 12:15 pm: |
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Southern California anyone? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=20164&post=2175873#POST2175873 |
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Geelp
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 02:13 pm: |
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Hi, I'm trying to put a new Vance & Hines exhaust on my bike, but I can't attach the muffler to the head pipe! The instructions say to "slip the muffler assembly onto the head pipe." Ain't happening'! Dragged my wife into the garage to help, and no matter how hard we try, we can't do it! What am I doing wrong? BTW, does it matter which way the VHR bracket 311 is attached to the head pipe clamp? I have it so the "D" end is attached to the head pipe and the round end is going to attach to the front mount. I have looked at pics from this site and all over the Internet, but can't see one that tells me how the bracket fits Thanks! |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 02:31 pm: |
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It would seem that the muffler inlet has been crimped or closed during shipping. Its easiest to make sure it slides on before you attach the headpipe to the bike. If it doesnt slide on then you'll need to widen the muffler inlet slightly. Usually dropping the muffler over a steel cone to spread apart the inlet does the trick (but my guess is you wont have one). I cant think of a solution for that yet. I dont really understand the second question. It would seem like it only goes on one way? Use the factory rubber mount and spacers though. Sorry, but I'm trying to do my taxes so I cant be of much further help Anyone else? |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 02:34 pm: |
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PS Make sure the muffler inlet clamp is not around the inlet when you try and slide it onto the headpipe (slide the clamp onto the headpipe first). That shouldnt make a difference, but if the clamp is tight fitting, it will have closed down the inlet. |
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Geelp
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 05:54 pm: |
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Thanks for the advice! I don't think it's a shipping problem...looks more like a tolerance problem. It's like ithe muffler assembly is just a notch too small to slide, easily or not, over the head pipe. I will look for a steel cone or similar device. The bracket looks like it can fit either way...so if it works I'm a happy camper. Just wondering! Thanks again for the response! |
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Orlandoslug
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 06:08 pm: |
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gearheadicko, thanks for response to such a lengthy post; I guess I was speaking out of frustration - I appreciate what the Blast is and bought it for that very reason; that is, so my sons can learn to shift very deliberately and learn to ride on a bike that's fun but doesn't have too many Hp... after combing through BW forum topics, I've found that if I leave it in 1st when I come to a stop and/or tip it left when I'm stopped, it seems to not get the 2nd clunk as bad, funny as it sounds. I think it's not quite sinking the dogs deep enough (maybe bent shift forks like you're saying?); but, I was also contemplating whether I could misadjust the shifter pawl slightly so it sinks slightly further on the downshift into 1st and see if that compensates slightly to help engage the 1st gear dogs. I've also adjusted the clutch a few times per the BCrider link; however, not sure whether the EZ (prior to primary adjustment) or Gearhead (after primary adjustment) makes that much difference...I've probably done it so many times as I've tried to eliminate adjustments as a cause to my problems that it's probably about right; although, I've never done it the EZ method where you tie the clutch lever down (I always just loosened mine until the lever was floppy) makes any difference - or, it's just a method to do it more quickly. Anyways...not sure whether I'm just getting better at understanding it's ideosyncracies or the adjustments have improved it slightly; but, it seems to be doing it less if I keep it in 1st and tip it left at each stop (although it's not fool proof!) I'm hoping it will improve - I can't imagine splitting the cases taking me less than a few months at my typical pace! by the way, my wife has a low seat '03 that runs superb; but, was a lady-owned cream-puff before we got it - I was just looking for something that would hold up to my sons abuse, and was disappointed with our 2nd Blast (thought they'd be a little more bulletproof as they're used for all those beginner classes). The Blast seemed to be an ideal commuter for them with it's low maintainence and good mileage |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 11:28 pm: |
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Shift pawl and drum pin adjustment, followed by a clutch and primary adjustment usually does the trick. EZ |
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Crackhead
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 11:41 am: |
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+1 EZ Also, the blast will never shift "right", jsut shift with authority and let it make what ever noise it wants. If you want to help your son learn and enjoy to ride, make sure the bike doesn't have the Dunlops. They really are a pos tire. Depending on the mileage, the bikes could still have the OEM tires on it. My Dunlops on the 2006, have gotten hard and will slip during the power stroke in turns. I finally was able to go for a decent ride yesterday and had to ride it with the rpms up high in the turns to stop the slipping. I am ordering the Pirelli MT75 or the Diablos before my next ride. |
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Orlandoslug
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 12:22 pm: |
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Did the shift pawl adjustment (twice) And subsequently adjusted clutch per BCrider link (didn't tie lever down per EZ method however - does that make much difference or is that just a short cut?) Did not have a portion of the primary cover to hold the shifter mechanism during the shift pawl adjustment, and I was wondering how sensitive the shift pawl adjustment was to the shifter mechanism's position (I had held it in as straight as possible) Although it's improved, it still does usually after sitting at a stop light for a while, despite leaving it in 1st with the clutch pulled in |
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Tin_man_2
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 02:02 pm: |
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Geelp, Many of the large chain Auto Parts stores now lend out tools for home use. Auto Zone, Advance and such... What you need is an exhaust pipe expander, the tool slides into the end of the pipe and you turn a nut that expands the tool. Ive used the tool with heat but for minor jobs cold may just work well enough for the fix. |
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Crackhead
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 03:19 pm: |
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Check your fluid level, when was the fluid last changed and what type of fluid did you use? The Blast will make noises shifting, ranging from a loud HD clunk, to a genital clink. I think HD was sending Buell the bottom of the barrel parts to use on the Blast and saving the good stuff for the Sportster. |
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Orlandoslug
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 06:25 pm: |
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I switched to the same motorcycle I run in my wife's Blast, which runs fine, which is Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I wish I knew how to somehow get the dogs to engage a little deeper when I downshift into 1st; I think it would be fine. I believe when I tip it to the left when I'm stopped, it helps slide the gear over to engage a little better, and usually doesn't clunk again when I take off if I do that; but, if I tip it right, it wants to clunk again every time. |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 10:29 pm: |
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Thanks Tin man! I must have been asleep at the wheel! I've got several of those expanders and I completely forgot about them . They are lot easier to find than the cone type expander. Cold is fine and the mufflers got cuts in it for expansion anyway. It only needs to be spread a little. |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 11:06 pm: |
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Sorry, Orlandoslug. I should have realized from your profile that you have TWO Blasts! So you already know how it should run and shift. Usually the shift problem mostly happens when its cold, but it doesnt seem from your posts as if you'd ridden it enough to know*. Either way its not exactly the kind of thing you want your son to learn to ride with, but it could be worse. Maybe it will make him think more and go slow! Good luck. Except for pulling the trans apart, I dont think anything we've recommended will eliminate it completely, but close. *FWIW. One of my Blasts has the same problem and mine only does it when its cold and usually only once, maybe twice. I just dont have the time to do anything about it and its really just a minor annoyance for me. My "big bike" will do the same thing, but with it its very obvious that you're not fully engaged when it happens. |
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Indybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 12:58 pm: |
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It's 55 out and SUNNY in Indy today!! I got to ride my Blast in today! It's been a while since I've ridden in mid January! |
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Styxnpicks
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 01:11 am: |
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so yea, the kawi 650r shock is out and the stock back in. I'm not even gonna risk a ride around the block witht the rear jacked that hig.. even if it did look good |
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Limelight
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 01:09 pm: |
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Sorry EZ. I broke my promise. I had to ride back in hurry-cain rains and got myself sick and haven't been up to the shift adjustment.. This last week rode the bike 100 miles to gig in austin, did the gig for 6 hours, then got back on the bike to drive 400 more miles to dallas for another gig, the Winter Harley Dealers Convention and the fracker wouldn't start. Checked everything I could in a parking lot, removed tank, cleaned plug. Still no start. Call family and get a ride back home, pass out sick, sick the entire next day. So on the second day rent a trailer, drive 100 miles, try bike again. No start. Trailer her up, drive her home, get 99 miles and a strap brakes and over she goes. Luckily only damage was a little mar on the front brake rotor in a place it doesn't matter and to the rim. Get her home, untrailed, rush to drop off the trailer, come back and try to start her for "shits and giggles" and she starts right up. F Me... Drive her 65 miles to houston for meeting with client, goto dealership to get new jets, they only have the slow of course so got a 45 and 175 on order. Tell him my story and he asks the year and immediately says "bank angle sensor". I had though about it but the bike never was on it side or got dropped so I discounted it when I was diagnosing in the parking lot. BUT... The entrance to this clients office/shop is off a loop that has high speed traffic in 3 directions so when you pull in their parking lot your coming in HOT, to keep from getting rear ended or T Boned. Motorbike, scooter, bike, car, full size van, or 24 foot box truck, this driveway is like the landing deck of a aircraft carrier. You get in it and use its long length in one direction to stop. You just have no choice. I though the other contractors were crazy when I saw them pulling in but after working there its really the only "safe" way into this lot. Just imagine the out... Last time there the direction I came in put me going 90 degrees to the long length of the lot and it's also at a 40-45 degree grade and then levels out hard right in front of the building. That's where I've been parking. We (the dealership tech and me) can only deduce that from the fast and sudden stop at that 45 degree angle it triggered it and the falling over again knocked it free. Moral of the story. If I had kicked the shit out of the bike like I would have done in my younger days, the mother would have started right up, I would have made my gig and money, not wasted 2 days, gas, trailer rental... Sometimes anger is the way. lol. Also the tech told me you can stick a magnet on the sensor or to the frame close to it an trigger it. An old Harley trick to screw with your friends or a security measure. Speaking of, does anybody's frame have a large inch thick magnet under the swing arm? |
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Limelight
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 01:21 pm: |
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Oh yeah..lol. Last owner decided to open the float bowl a few times and stripped 1 screw head and nearly the rest. Got 3 out and then had to dremmel last into a flat head. Now all 4 are flats. 2 washers and the 45 jet installed. WoW. Different bike. Can't wait for that 175 and then the yost pt and a splitter. |
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Crackhead
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 02:50 pm: |
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Pirelli MT 75 are on order from Motorcycle super store. I am going to be like a little kid running home to see if my new tires are waiting for me by the front door. |
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Jetlee
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 05:41 pm: |
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Orlando...slip the clutch a little after shifting into gear. You can slip it without moving the bike. This will cause the clunk to happen while stopped instead of while trying to move forward. For instance, coming up to a light, downshift every gear, including first (lightly). If you put the trans in Neutral then put it in gear a little earlier than usual and slip the clutch to make sure it engages before you're ready to takeoff. This will make it clunk if it's going to. Hold the front brake when slipping the clutch while at a stop. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 11:51 pm: |
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Yeah - too big! There is a working alternative with but a tad of tool work - see suspension section and enjoy! EZ |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2012 - 12:00 am: |
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Yeah - a little carb tuning goes a long way! EZ |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2012 - 01:29 am: |
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Bank Angle Sensor or BAS: Its important to remember that you must switch the bike completely off to reset the BAS. Otherwise it will not reset even though the bike is uprighted. |
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Jturn
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2012 - 12:41 pm: |
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Well i finally got my blast running again. there was a lot of water in the tank. So i changed the gasket around the gas cap. my voltage regulator, das boot, sparkplug, and the sparkplug wire. its running better than ever!! its just... its almost too loud for my apartments. i have the Vance and Hines exhaust it. but my question is; is there any way to get a baffle for it. or quieten it. i love it its just a bit too loud |
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Limelight
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2012 - 07:27 pm: |
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Bit the bullet. Got a CVP emulsion tube and spring on the way. Hopefully gets here the same time my 175 comes in. Time for K&N and "wild" the airbox mod. Got to open her up with just the 45 in her and its sooo nice. Took a pair of cheat noise canceling headphones I bought with a case full of drum gear, took the speakers out and mounted in my GMax helmet. The cheek pads had perfect cutouts and cable routing. This helmet has been making me deaf as it resonates quite a bit. Rode for a few hours earlier. Heaven. No more earbuds that get pulled half way out. No more deafness! |
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